The Project Pad

Hah cool I appreciate that.. Heres another. I have already re-tuned the fuel table based on what I saw on this log. No recent heavy footed logs since yester tho.

Another thing. I reverted my dTPS?dMAP values to the base settings after having them tripled while following my own flawed guidance lol. Seemed to run a little stronger at 35 - 38C IAT today in 81F weather. Its sticky out here in PA outside. Sometimes I wish I didn't work outside :(

Ok ok. I need help here... occasionally when the car is temp (middle of coolant gauge) and regardless (irregardless? ) of IAT, the car seems less powerful. But once I cruise for loong while it regains it's oomph. When I touch the IC after shutdown it seems equally ambient to the touch but my freakin IM is Hella hot towards the belts end where it comes nearest the radiator. I'm pushing the car pretty hard now and it's 75 out. I'm about 10 degrees over ambient most of the time with IAT.

Do I: A) get a slightly larger FMIC.
Or B) heatshield the hell out of the IM from the rad where it's post-IAT sensor??

I like both ideas :

I'll put my WOT logs up after converting in a bit. HUUUNNGRY!

I don't really believe your iat sensor. The 3b ones are not very accurate and hard to calibrate in VEMS. You'd he doing really well to see 10 degrees above ambient. Try out a 1.8t sensor instead.

Coolant temp could pull timing too by the way. That might by why it's being sluggish. I'll take a look at your next log to see what I can find.

Thanks a ton Chris. Truth is I'd be barely anywhere with this standalone without your educated assistance. Anyone who can't admit that is a dick lol. I absolutely didn't know about the coolant facet of timing Ready to learn!

I should clear up the IAT sensor and that it already is the 1.8t one. It however isn't Bosch brand. It's off of eBay and generic. Should I use it as a door stop?

88a5tq wrote:Thanks a ton Chris. Truth is I'd be barely anywhere with this standalone without your educated assistance. Anyone who can't admit that is a dick lol. I absolutely didn't know about the coolant facet of timing Ready to learn!

I should clear up the IAT sensor and that it already is the 1.8t one. It however isn't Bosch brand. It's off of eBay and generic. Should I use it as a door stop?

Any time, happy to help! I just looked at your CLT table and it is all zeros, so that probably isn't the reason you're seeing power loss.



Also, good that you have a 1.8t IAT sensor. Do you know if it's calibrated properly?

Oh boy. All I did was start using the new OEM 1.8T table values as per Marc

Do any temperature reading limit boost? I hit 268 kpa in one log.

88a5tq wrote:Oh boy. All I did was start using the new OEM 1.8T table values as per Marc

Do any temperature reading limit boost? I hit 268 kpa in one log.

OK, you should be good then if you got them from Marc.

Not that I'm aware of. Your MAT vs. Ign retard table is pretty aggressive though. Send a log when it's happening and we'll see what it's doing if anything.

ATM I'm running my w/m at enough a duty cycle to lower lambda 0.05 and it seems pretty on target concerning that. I made lots of adjustments to maintain this target lambda based on the included log. The other 3 logs were less impressive but the "last one" was when the car started waking up

Take your time sir. I just wanted to get these posted up and out of the way. Another day is fine with me as well

I'll look at them in a bit, but I'm curious now. Is that MAT you were quoting (10 deg above ambient) with spraying meth or without?

That's with meth spraying

Oh, I believe it then

I keep forgetting you're running meth. Keep reminding me if I forget lol

Hah roger. For some reason my subscription to my own thread is not working this week.

I bought a sheet of DEI reflect a-cool silver to put over the hottest area of the cyl #1-3 IM areas. In the winter I had frost (from w/m) on cylinder 5 of it by the IAT sensor lol. Always made me smile when opening the hood. The DEI isn't insulated but only reflective in nature which I believe us the best approach for the manifold. Still waiting for my free 034 BPV seals that shipped 8 days ago

I went partial retard on the IM after work. Enjoy a laugh

Should block radiant heat from the coolant manifold. I think I should've used the same material when I wrapped the pre-throttle body pipe as well. *not a show car*

I like that actually. I'd be curious about the thermal properties of that material. Do they advertise any values for heat transfer properties?

Coolant gauge reading is staying below half range. I think the IM was acting as a huge heat sink. I'll check that out chris!

So far WOW. Gonna redo the other pipe too

Nice! If you really want to get serious with it you could get a phenolic spacer too. It really does help keep the IM cool.

Withstands 400 f direct and 2000 F radiant. The gold tape can do 850 direct. Was considering putting it on the turbo cold side heat shield I put in 2 days ago until I saw the 400 direct part lol. It says need virtually no clearance. Sounds good. I thought about that chris but it didn't seem in my budget when I did the HG. And now I don't feel like taking it back off lol

Yeah... those aren't heat transfer specs. They are just what it can withstand, not anything about the material properties. I doubt they list it, but from an engineering perspective that kind of info is pretty important!

Why couldn't you use it for the cold side head shield? 400 direct means 400F touching it presumably. From what you said it sounds like as long as it isn't touching the heat source it can do 2000 F which would be way more than enough.

No I suppose youre right about the 400 F. The housing has maybe a 1/4 inch between it and the header which has exhaust wrap somewhat "draped" over/on it. I was posting off the package of the 2nd one I bought outside of advance auto here since that was the extent of the info. Was just on the website and theres no further info there either. Dead end. The gold tape is WAY more expensive so Im skipping that. Im very pleased with the results especially since a 12" x 24" sheet was $22. The tape I used on the charge air pipe has a fiberglass layer underneath which may or may not be useful since the w/m nozzle is at the very beginning after the IC. Maybe its holding the cooling effect of the solution within the pipe or maybe its keeping the hot turbo air from cooling further via convection? Whatever

Anyone have a good set of numbers for the CLT/MAP table yet? I have no idea whats safe for the IAT ignition cut table either

Yeah, that's a pretty complicated heat transfer analysis, but it can be done. It'd be interesting and I've almost gone about calculating it before, but I'm too busy with the strut mounts for now

Anytime you feel like crunchin #'s, feel free

I went a little further with the second sheet of reflective stuff. I only did the underside of the charge pipe as well as a little more of the IM. I did the brake MC shield partially and completely did all the key areas of the turbo heat shield that overlays the turbo blanket.. gonna take another log which will probably ly be more important than all the previous ones. I sort of wanna add 1 or 2 degrees in the high rpm areas to really get this car moving I don't have any idea tho on power right now.

Doing an experiment and I'm sure it seems retarded to most. I'm leaving the small heatshield off that bolts to the passengr side of the charge pipe to cover the region where the BPV's signal line would run. Who's to know it's not trapping unwanted EM heat under the charge pipe?? I'd like to try and see if anything noticeable happens. Will likely be so minimal I'll never spot it