The Project Pad

I'd love to tell you that fixed it. Same problem after reconnecting!

Probably a good time to use a mechanical gauge to see what's up.

my one concern at this moment is that the machine shop used a ton of thread tape to install the smaller oil pressure sensor's adapter plug. Im going to put a copper washer in there instead and retest. I have plenty of oil at the turbo feed also. Youre right though. Too bad I don't have one sitting here to try real fast :(

Thread tape... There shouldn't be any thread tape on your engine! That's a no go!

Lol precisely! Although its only on the 1.8 bar sensor they are interconnected by wiring so I am hopeful once again. This time ill disconnect the battery just in case the current managed to find an unconventional ground path in the absence of that big connector

It looked like oil hadn't reached the 1.8 bar sensor yet so I'm going to redo the priming today withe sensors out and wait to see oil in those spots. I'm really hoping the oil pump cavitated with air and my initial prime didn't work.

I'm not proud to admit I had the oil sensors swapped in their holes. Srtill dry behind both but a good priming will be in order tomorrow

So I have a big concern. I cranked the motor for awhile today to no avail. I need some serious help here. The turbo feed line pumped out this much oil tonight after cranking for like 10 or less seconds. The oil check valve is new and I spoke to the machinist who said they had ZERO concerns while installing it. I provided full explicit instructions on it and all page #s were marked in the provided Bentley. He mentioned perhaps an oil galley or some such f#cking thing couldve possibly been left out and I about lost my lunch at the thought. Does that notion hold any water in your opinions? Wtf I'm gonna need jesus after this ordeal.

Could the aan windage tray have anything to do with this? Blocked something? Seems it only could go on one fkin way...

Ill block the turbo feed line next I guess

Isn't oil supposed to come out of the oil feed line? Assuming it wasn't connected of course.

That's the only place though so far lol. Both oil pressure sensors are removed to watch for oil but even after cranking for 2 minutes yesterday those 2 ports stayed bone dry. I'm considering blocking the turbo feed to see where oil comes out next

I had the pressure relief valve apart on the oil pump. Could a weak valve spring be keeping the oil from cracking the oil checkvalve's pressure?

I wanted to clarify that the turbo feed line was on for all the priming ceremonies. We took it off just as a last ditch effort to find oil flow. Also the hx35 does not currently have a restrictor. I'm seeing a 0.085 one is common so I'm looking for one.

No need for a restrictor on the turbo feed. Are you sure you didn't leave a rag or something blocking a port? Pressure at the turbo feed means you have pressure at the filter housing which should mean you have at least some sort of pressure elsewhere...

I don't think I even know where to look. The block was assembled and cared for by the shop. All I did was put everything on it. Could the oil filter housing be primarily responsible for diverting oil to the head? I am lost. The machinist is talking about left out plugs and I'm blinded by ruined gasket kits and unusable fluids. I feel sick. I don't even know if there's oil galley diagrams yet. So far its looking like my blood pressure is closer to spec

Have you verified that the check valve isn't crushed? (Just from my own experience of giving machine shops specific instructions only to have them totally ignored.) ARP main studs?
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=40901

thanks for the reply Jeff. I haven't gone to see the machinist yet to ask to borrow the 8mm triple square tool yet. I don't own one. Looked for one but figured the best bet was the machine shop doing it lol

Sorry Jeff I forgot, yes main ARP stud set with updated short stud. I gave graphic (not like that) instructions for cautions and installation advice concering the check valve. I got the triple square for the valve from the guy. "Make sure I get that back on monday in case I need it." I pray this doesn't equate a teardown! I think ill pull the valve and prime through that galley today. Will probably ruine the valve. I started a thread on s2forum in the projects area as well. Primed the oil pump and still the f#ckin sensor ports are dry with the check valve installed.

Over on the s2forum

"Alright guys (girls?) I got about an inch of oil in the sender hole so the valve is obscured. So shall I blow the $486 on a new oil pump or pull the check valve to see if its a restriction? OR run the motor another minute in hopes it actually starts spraying like a male cat? I had it running about a minute until I could adjust lambda at idle and it was actually pretty damn on already

PS VEMS"

Update via s2forum!

Gah! I'm leaning toward faulty checkvalve possibly? This is the extent of damage to it below but when I tried to start the car with it out oil came shooting out and it didn't even actually start! That was a split second of rotation only
What do you guys think?

Lower threads are effed up tho?

Hmm machine shop should be questioned

Right on. I feel like those mash marks are unacceptable. Maybe it was bottomed out too harshly? When I install the new one should I only put it in to a certain point? I feel like torquing it might result in the same damage possibly.

Sooooo... shall I replace with 046103175A or 077103175B?

Kinda looks to me like they cross-threaded it. You will want to chase the threads in the block with a tap if you can.

Holy shit idk if i trust myself to get everything out after

It's not like your tapping a fresh hole, just put some grease on the tap.