The Project Pad

Thanks for chiming in Shawn not too long before you posted that I had already added the scat rods to my cart at 034. I'm pretty much sold on them though.

Gonna do stock rings for sure. Recommended mfg'er?
Also will the stock AAN windage tray prevent oil starvation during ridiculous donuts and cornering? Not sure I wanna buy one new tho :(
Thanks

Why not buy rods from Jeff @ FRP? My buddy Adam got a set of SCATs from him for something crazy like $400. Failing that, Marc sells a set of h-beams for less than what 034 is selling SCATs. 034 are... well (to me at least), the vendor of absolute last resort.

The windage tray will help but won't eliminate oil starvation issues. Hank welded a small baffle my stroker oil pan to be used in conjunction with the 7A and AAN baffles, it's on the last page or two of my build thread if you want to have a look.

Excellent thanks!

Talk to Jeff about SCATs. He'll tell you why he doesn't like using them out of the box. It might not matter for a relatively "low" power build, but it definitely could for the higher revving and more powerful ones, and there is a longevity component to it as well.

Anyway, I'm sure they'll be fine for what you want to accomplish, the point is that if scats have quality issues, imagine what no-name rods are like. They're probably all made in the same factory anyway now that I think about it lol.

I believe the important part is that the finishing work be done in the USA. Keep that in mind when you're making a choice.

Ya I've read similar claims for manufacturing. I'll call frp tomorrow then. I messaged Marc as well. The rings I'm going with are OEM goettze (sp?) So hopefully that will be good. A mechanic friend says I should hone with 200 grit then use the rolling ball thing for crosshatching. I saw someone else used 200 then 500 and that's it. Not really sure what to do for that.

Looks like fate. Look at the price! "034"

Lol I guess you better do it!

So I know I tend to be the 'throw caution to the wind' kind of guy, but are you having the rods and crank machined to account for the coated rod bearings? I thought they were proven to cause a lot of problems when the bearing tolerances weren't opened up.

Haha I saw a thread on that. Supposedly where I read it they were saying the coating was "soo thin" it was negledgeable. How do you feel about it I will ask Marc as well

You'll know when you plastigauge it. As long as it's in spec I'd run it.

Hate to be the guy, but don't the AAN and 3B timing belts have different tooth counts?

Yes it's true. Marc offers a 3b kit for the same price but it's unlisted. Thanks though bud

Chris, now I have to buy all the plastic auger crap?! Lol idk which one to order either. Lots are listed on the plastigauge site

I saw in a different cat forum that a guy bought the green threads of it at NAPA and it was like $6 for a ft of the the stuff. Seems less daunting now

So general concensus on honing? 200 grit very briefly then the cross-hatching attachment without stopping inside the cylinder?

Yes plastigauge is cheap!

So far the rod bearings look good and the cylinder walls too this is the spare motor I bought from Ohio with an unknown record 2 or 3 yrs back. I've decided to ship the block out to my local Machinist for tolerance checking and cleaning.

Actually I did find a lot of debris from the oil fill cap internal plastic thing over the cams. It was in the sump and a lot was in the oil pickup

I know it's anecdotal, but I wouldn't worry about that too much. It's happened to me, and several others and I never saw the oil pressure drop. Just clean it up and go!

Thank god man. That's good to see

Any of you think getting the block a chem bath might be unadvisable? I need to buy the weird round removal tool for the oil pressure sender "can" and a driver to get to the check valve probably before I send the block out. I've also noticed in the past what appears to be some sort of fiber mesh in the CC breather outlet of the block. It will probably disintegrate in the bath lol. Any thoughts on my worries plz? Maybe I can skip it and just have them deglaze and remove the oil squirter so I don't mangle them. Probably have them tolerance check also for insurance.

Socket is NLA ;(

Probably would need to replace the freeze plugs too after that chem bath right?

I've seen some amazing results with just molasses and water. Error404 on his Cq thread on s2forum, I believe.

Hah no kidding?! That combo NEVER crossed my mind. I just got home with lots of off brand pine sol tho. Apparently it's pretty bad as for pistons and engine cleaning. Pistons are disassembled and ready for conrods but I'll likely send the rods to the shop for clearance checking without the Pistons on them. So many sexy parts have been arriving
If I don't get the results I want with the pineal I'll try the molasses idea. Thanks

In a recent poll of middle-aged European motors, 4 out of 5 pistons admitting merely discussing launch control was enough to make them ill.

WTFFF!?



Yes you read right. 4 out of 5 pistons and cylinder head chamber areas directly next to the intake valves looked as though mice had been chewing on them. Cylinder head is scrap now.

dettttt bruh

Anything to do with overusing LC? I thought my ignition table was still somewhat conservative