The Project Pad

I saw some people were relaying their 300 watt fans on other car makes/models in order to cure a stalling issue related to the fans turning on. Maybe it's because of the harness wiring not being a direct channel to the battery ground? I'm considering using an 80 A napa relay for this so I can provide power via the large jumper post on the passenger side and running a large ground back to the battery. Thoughts? Fab works well and doesn't bind.

I guess I fixed a potential heat soak problem. Car seems quite chipper again, despite the high temps around here.

In more ridiculous news, I bought 2 Chinese dash cams to cover my ass (and front) and I only bought them for the parking monitor feature. Of course they don't tell you that it's only made available upon purchase of a separate OBD power cable. F#CK! Looks like I'll need need to either do an obd retrofit or or buy an urS4 lol

88a5tq wrote:It's also a good thing I make it a habit of retorquing the ARP headstuds since they were all at around 50 ft-lbs as usual. I don't know why they lose their torque everytime.

Did you use the supplied dope from ARP? On the threads and both sides of the washer and back of the nut? If you go up in three steps using the Bentley pattern you shouldn't have a problem. Hand tight, 53 lbs, 80 lbs.

If you want to get really anal, you can go 33%/67%/110%/100% but IME that hasn't been necessary.

88a5tq wrote:Thanks chris. Dave I was told that the tech of these injectors was so far ahead that they would run efficient with stock injector settings, aside from Changi g the VE table etc. I will look at what they are shortly. I was worried about that as well at one point.

What Dave is talking about is still related to your voltage problem rather than the tuning of the injectors themselves. You simply shouldn't be having that kind of a voltage drop. In other words, yes, the injectors will work with no changes to settings which would work for stock-sized injectors, but that is assuming that you don't have other underlying problems like a huge current sink somewhere!

Whoa how did I not get email updates for these posts?
Yes I used their dope for the initial installation. Even did 3 steps as suggested. Only thing I attribute this to is bottoming out the studs without a ball bearing in each block hole :(
Logical cause? Idk
Chris I agree it's strange. Only began when switching to VEMS honestly. Figured it was my tune haha since it was very likely the cause. Been messing with it with no improvement except on lower fan speeds tho.

Not really sure of how to use this settings area along with the paper included with the injector. Somehow I feel like I should use the simplified tab for this fix. Not really sure here

Or is this one of those instances where there's no direct correlation between those numbers on that table and the settings in vems? In that case I guess I would have to use the directions on the vems help site to determine the values

With some quick math, your "injector open time @ 13.2v" should be close to 1.21. all I did was get the average for the 12v and 14v dead times. It came out to 1.195, so 13.2 is 1.213. that's is a lot different than "0"!

Bahaha! That's hilarious! Thanks Dave
The units had me worried lol

88a5tq wrote:Bahaha! That's hilarious! Thanks Dave
The units had me worried lol

Before you go throwing that in there, do some reading and see if VEMS uses milliseconds, or microseconds for this. I know megasquirt uses milliseconds, but not sure about VEMS.

Ya thing that has me worried is there's no units on that table from FID. Not sure what they use. I'll call them I think.

I just did the conversion and it looks like 1210 u-seconds could be the correct entry.

So with using that dead time value and the guess values from the vems help file, I've been able to keep the engine afloat with fan on! Only problem is my VE map is shit now and I have to redo it completely and I am going to the drag strip with the car tomorrow morning lol. I won't even risk it if I don't get this good tonight :(

Even tho 83% of my being hates FB, I posted this in the local german auto club page. I figured more of you guys would actually get the joke. Har:


Id be surprised if none of you have noticed the same coincidence while putting your key in your door.

Some of you may feel like I've ruined my car but everything I do is FUNCTIONAL. Lol now look at what I've done!

The intake pipe to the left has reflect-a-gold as well underneath the header wrap. That trick was relayed to me by a local friend with a 1000 hp SL550. Although he did say titanium wrap and not the regular stuff from DEI
It is making a huge difference in preventing heat soak at lights and keeping temps steady. Coolant temps are even WAY down.
I'm happy with it.
NOW I am having a slight issue right now. When cruising my temp will be 30 C and then SPIKE way down to 25 and back to 30 C in a fraction of a second. This is at cruise. I have to check if it's doing this all the time or not though. I will change the sensor on the manifold shortly since I have another new one already.

Thoughts?

I'm still not seeing the IC temps I'd like to. I ordered 3 fogging nozzles to put on the IC's exterior. The cuteam part is they are going to be tied into the w/m injection setup. Even more interesting is I can spray at will using the AEM w/m comtroller's test button. Cycles the pump to 100% by button. Also bought proper louvers. I put a w/m injector I had sitting around on the font of the car to hit the IC and I test the pump. 5 secondo later I see a 2 to 3 degree drop in IAT's! That's only when spraying like 1/3 the IC's front side too. I should get very nice coverage by the week'week's end though. Mix is currently between 20 and 30% meth. Supposed to evaporate quicker than water.

Based on my reading of WW2 era experiments on airplane engines, 50:50 is best.

Talk to me. Why/where are you seeing 20-30% is better? Just curious, is all.

Within the last 3 weeks or so I believe Jim green told me more water for detonation resistance. I believe it was Jim anyway

Yeah, strait water always worked best for me to protect from detonation.

What a sad evening

Spun bearing? I had put about 10 minutes on a brand new oil change with valvoline high mileage 20w50 before the awful noise of rod knock began after leaving a gas station. I barely made it home. Ya I drove it 12 blocks home too! Low rpm but it won't matter lol. Pretty sure the block will be junk. At least I have the other motor. I'd like to open it up and put these in it before transferring it over:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Connecting-Rod-Rods-Conrod-for-Audi-RS2-2-2L-Turbo-5cyl-ARP200-Bolts-144mm-Max-/131500955482?hash=item1e9e11575a%3Ag%3AoCcAAOSwBLlVOLZL&_trkparms=pageci%253A16337ba6-5e86-11e6-83f2-0050568f3dca%257Cparentrq%253A718fd6a71560a6a8d0d886a3fff30686%257Ciid%253A2

Also I think rings are in order? Suggestions for best results with the hx35? This nearly had me choked up lol. What a feckin week!

Sufficient or better sets available?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Piston-Ring-Set-ITM-021-6272-STD-fits-89-91-Audi-200-Quattro-2-2L-L5-/111452624606?fits=Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3A200&hash=item19f31816de%3Ag%3AlLYAAOSw9N1Vjmdz&_trkparms=pageci%253A207ffac8-5e88-11e6-9afa-74dbd180adb6%257Cparentrq%253A719d35921560a350d8e07c58fff43814%257Ciid%253A1

What is that a picture of? Don't get eBay rods man. Even scats are junk straight out of the box without a little work.

I feel your pain man. At least we're in it together. And I'm double in it. Gotta have both the avant and my M3 rebuilt :(

Oh Jesus I didn't realize they were in the same sort of shape

That's a picture of the oil I drained out before I did a very wasteful oil change
Not my finest moment lol. I was certain the noise I was hearing was from the valve train and even after I saw the bearing material I began the "nah" faze hah. In my quest to ignore a bearing about to go, I wasted a $26 oil change special which is all on me lol.

I cant believe those are so shitty. How sad. Not sure what to get now. Oh well on with the show!

Wow! The pic didnt load for me last night. Looks like you drained glitter out of that thing. Very sad that it happened, but I'm sure you will get it back and better!

Thanks Dave. Also my cellphone took a proverbial shit after i texted you last evening lol. Rods, rings and a hone for the spare block and ill be going for 30 psi with the hx35 me thinks. Im still looking over those German mfg'd ebay rods tho. Ill hit the .de audi forums and have a search.

Best ring kit for my ideas? Thanks all

loxxrider wrote:Don't get eBay rods man. Even scats are junk straight out of the box without a little work.

Just use Scat's, I've never heard of an issue and am one of at least a dozen people I know who have run them right out of the box with zero issues. I wouldn't drop to eBay rods because Scat's are so cheap as-is, but honestly I would assume eBay rods are fine too, Honda guys run them all the time with zero machining or issues.