The Project Pad

You'll need the spacer for compressor clearance. WG routing is a bitch, Chris had a screamer on his 200.

Go figure thanks. I must have bought an old design manifold. New ones have the t3 sticking out alot more. Another thing that has my curiosity is if having that WG flange near only cylinder 5 is a good design. Seams like it would cause strange things to happen when I think about it

I haven't looked at the new ones, I bought Chris' so it's from the first batch. The WG is not ideal but I'm able to run at spring pressure, ~7psi, with the H1C/12cm² HX35.

Ok that makes me ask one question. Did YOU need a spacer? I should be pretty worried if so. I see some spacers on the bay that are in the $20 range but finding extra long studs will be a chore

Another thing is, after reading javad's thoughts on WG sizes and control concerns, I should be fine with the 38 mm and running high boost about 22 to 24 psi since very little exhaust will probably need vented to maintain that pressure. I run 100% N75 DC now for my redline 22 psi on the hybrid turbo

88a5tq wrote:Jeremy replied:
Julian,
I'm not fully sure, I don't mess with those HX35 or any holeset for that matter.So you are in uncharted waters my friend.
Good luck!

What a tool.

88a5tq wrote:Ok that makes me ask one question. Did YOU need a spacer? I should be pretty worried if so. I see some spacers on the bay that are in the $20 range but finding extra long studs will be a chore

Yes, I used a spacer. I don't have a great picture...

Man, I've already been there and done all this. You have nothing to worry about. But a flange (I got a nice thick one from race part solutions), longer studs readily avaliable from the hardware store, some rtv copper, and bolt that somebitch on there. The wastegate will work fine. If you don't put a pipe in it, your engine bay will hey sooty as hell lol. It sounds pretty good with open wastegate, but these days I prefer it tied back in.

I will try to get you a list of oil line parts.

And I agree that was a toolbag response about the spacing!

Bahahaa! But Chris, THE WATER!!!

Ya the picture helps for sure there. I may have to get the 2" spacer from ebay. Freakin $60 tho. Chris I'm in your debt already but that info would be awesome

The spacer needs to be about 5/8, not 2"

Ok I spoke too soon. I was loozing at that manifold under the impression that it was the newer design but it does actually appear to be the same as what I bought, i.e. more shallow t3 flange depth. This forum is a life saver.

I haven't spoken to that welder guy for awhile. Maybe I should let him know the thread and pitch of the k26 manifolds so he can still pursue making adapter plates. Or somebody should pony up and send him their ebay tubular mani so he can copy it and use more common flanges.

I'm off to find the spacer. Having second thoughts about breaking down the turbo. I'd hate to bend the shaft while loosening that 12 point nut

How will you bend it? Just use something that is able to apply torque directly like a T-handle.

Standing here looking at one right now

Just to nitpick:

From my experience working in refineries, and reading MSDS sheets, copper anti-seize is of a lower spec than nickel. The cost is essentially the same. Given a brand preference, I would choose Henkel/Loctite 77164 Anti-Seize every_damn_time.


Copper:
Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C) - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... dPMNE.dpuf

Nickel:
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... cuw0a.dpuf

Also, copper dope isn't compatible with some alloys, so that's another thing to consider aside from effective temp ranges.

OK, you will need this at the oil filter housing.

[url]https://store.034motorsport.com/kkk-oil-inlet-flange-kit.html[/url}

Then any -4 AN line (I THINK it needs to be about 24" long. Verify this with a string or something to measure how you want to route it).

I like to get pre-crimped oil feeds. Something like this, but without the extra fittings.

http://racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/part/turbo-accessories/t3-t4-turbo-4-oil-feed-kit-pn-rps-671414-race-part-solutions

Then you will need an m12x1.5 to -4AN adapter to thread into the Holset's oil feed. This is what I usually use.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=5055

The only problem is that sometimes these things leak a bit because they are designed to be used with a banjo bolt and crush washer. You can try either a crush washer or an o-ring between the Holset CHRA and the "flange" on that adapter fitting. When mine leaked, I just found an o-ring that fit snugly and tightened it up appropriately and it worked well (if I recall correctly). You can also try putting some kind of "dope" on the threads. Thread locker might work. Anything that will gum the threads up a bit to avoid seepage between the threads (remember, this is not an NPT thread, so the threads are not meant to seal).

For the drain, you will need a T3/T4 oil drain flange BOTH at the turbo and at the block. Take your pick of whether you want the male or female version depending on your packaging needs. It will depend on how your turbo is set up.

http://racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/part/turbo-accessories/t3-t4-oil-drain-flange-pn-671404-jod-race-part-solutions
http://racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/part/turbo-accessories/billet-t3-t4-oil-drain-flange-kit-10-male-pn-rps-999510-race-part-solutions

Your drain line should be -10 at a minimum, but the bigger the better. -10 will be the easiest route. Going bigger may require some custom flange work unless you find a nice way to adapt things without restriction. I'm not sure on the length. Just order enough that you can cut the hose as long as you need it. I'd just get 3' so that you have enough that if you mess it up, you have a chance to try again.

The only difficult part is the oil drain at the block. On the 200, you need to be able to make a turn right after the flange. So a female flange at the block might be ideal so that you can just have a 45 degree fitting coming out of it right off the bat. If it sticks out too much before making a turn, I think it hits the alternator or something like that. Take a look under the car and you'll see what I mean. Just try to keep it as straight a shot as possible from the turbo to the block. You might need a 45 out of the turbo (it's a little hard to fit a straight fitting there) and a 45 at the block. I'm sorry I can't recall exactly what I used because I had to try more than once to get it right!


And again, you may want to get a -4 to -3 and back up to -4 adapter somewhere in the oil feed line just to give it a slight restriction (the restriction from the adapter is more than a straight -3 line would make hole-size wise). Or just run a straight -3 line with the appropriate adapters needed to meet up with the oil filter housing side and the turbo side. That's up to you. I just wouldn't run a straight -4 with a -10 drain line. That's all. Hope that helps.

This flange should be thick enough for a spacer. I'm fairly certain that's the exact one in Ed's picture from my old setup. I misspoke above when I said 5/8. I believe 3/8 is enough like the one from race parts solutions.

http://racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/part/turbo-accessories/t3-turbo-open-inlet-flange-mild-steel-pn-965005-jod-race-part-solutions

Ebay also has 1/2" flanges. I'm sure that'd be fine too.

PRY4SNO wrote:Just to nitpick:

From my experience working in refineries, and reading MSDS sheets, copper anti-seize is of a lower spec than nickel. The cost is essentially the same. Given a brand preference, I would choose Henkel/Loctite 77164 Anti-Seize every_damn_time.


Copper:
Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C) - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... dPMNE.dpuf

Nickel:
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... cuw0a.dpuf

Also, copper dope isn't compatible with some alloys, so that's another thing to consider aside from effective temp ranges.

RTV copper is for sealing the flanged surfaces, not anti-seize

Holy crap Chris. We might need to sticky that one single post!



I'm reading that post-assembly green loctite is what I see on the end of the shaft. Thought I saw it being used for a rebuild as well. Something that made me sh!t myself yesterday was the garrett assembly instructions for tightening the nut. It required threading, heating to specified temp, UNthreading and then rethreading. NOOOOPE!

I busted that nut free today

Heading out to find the dope you mention. Now I'm on a dam watch list lol

Doh! that's what I get for skimming.

Julian, you can probably find it at any industrial/fabrication supply store. If not, Amazon.

Thank you sir. Home depo sucks. Don't go looking for it there

Now I have an intermittent 12 lbs boost vs 27 lol. I just took the turbo off to lower my expectations

Probably my catch can needs thawed or the BPV finally tore

Incidentally I ordered this kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9NJ1VK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

It caught my eye that they use genuine holset parts including the thrust bearings which are of an improved design (and materials?) vs aftermarket. I think I chose well instead of supporting an honest, American, PATRIOTIC, family business such as gpop shop
I just couldn't justify the $99 for theirs. Maybe theyre the same! Lol I'm already $268 into those snail. That's not bad tho still

That's a genuine kit, so there's nothing wrong with that
Also made in USA, so you're not doing anything wrong there at all.

That's encouraging. After I bought the kit I read the reviews and some jacka$$ claimed it couldn't possibly be genuine from the way it was packaged for shipment