The Project Pad

Hah thanks fellas. I'm trying to move past all of it

It was getting REAL close to coming off judging by the # of turns needed to get tight! Now I can finally go back to beating it without mercy.. the car

Hey I forgot to tighten mine and then proceeded to lose a driver side front wheel on a busy road and destroy a fender.

God damn I'm glad that car is gone...

Oh to be 17 again.

Yikes. You should let that memory die too. I think I forgot to tighten it fully after replacing the rear calipers

Anyone here ever have an alternator fail following the use of a trickle charger? As in, the battery is in the car and hooked up while charging It always seems to preceed the failure of the 5000's alternator when I think back. I have a really nice float charger so it's not cheap. Was like $80 a few years back

pilihp2 wrote:Hey I forgot to tighten mine and then proceeded to lose a driver side front wheel on a busy road and destroy a fender.

God damn I'm glad that car is gone...

Oh to be 17 again.

So did you think the shuddering was something else also like I did?

The 5000 is eating my battery once again. Went from 12.18 to 11.8 in 2 days of sitting. It's cold but this is ridiculous. New alternator is in as well. It's charging as we speak. I really thought I wired it to fix the draw when I redid the boost controller stuff. Frustrating. No bulb in trunk this time :(

What's your draw on the battery with the car off? That should clue you in on if something is parasitically draining it. But make sure you're reading after the interior lights and whatnot have gone off after the battery is reconnected.

Side note: I also bear the shame of driving off without all the wheels tightened. I made it 5 houses down the road before it occurred to me what the odd noise was.

Lol I do feel better now
I installed a quick disconnect on the ground post clamp so I'll give that a look this weekend.
That's awesome news about the heater valve! $25 or something on ecs I thought. But I changed that valve recently too

The amps drop to zero after a couple seconds so idk anymore on that.

I am on a quest for a tubular manifold with a T3 flange for my newly purchased holset. The ones on ebay are cheap and untrustworthy in the descriptions.

Anyone come across an ACTUAL T3 turbo manifold yet?

On ebay! This is a budget build people.

034s cast log manifold is fine. Not ideal, but it's thick enough that it won't crack on you and will flow plenty for that turbo.

Ya not ideal. I'll have a look tho. If I get desperate I'll probably buy the ebay header and have the 034 t3 flange welded onto it or something

That's a waste of time man, just get something with a T3 flange already on it. Welding to cast iron is asking for trouble in this situation. It's what, $350 for the 034 one? That's a good deal. People have cracked even the "good" eBay cast manifolds like the STR.

Nick has an ebay one on the avant I think. but it hasn't run long enough to say whether its durable or not. It probably isn't a huge deal, and the risk of cracking might not be that high, but don't waste your time welding on a T3 flange to a cheap cast manifold when there is a perfectly good, reasonably-priced option already available. That's all I'm saying.

^^^ What he said.

BUT I did forget to consider that you have to buy a wastegate to use that manifold. That's probably the only negative about it for this situation.

Ya that part was bothering me too. I've found that customfabshop.Com is big on making adapter plates. It says on their k26 flange product page that they can make one for it to another flange if you call. I guess I'll try calling tomorrow. A tubular manifold would be my ideal one and if I pull off this custom adapter I'll just next to nothing on the ebay one

I heard back and hr was the only ebay seller who said he could make them. I told him there would be a big market on here and mg

For k26 to t3 adapters?

yes..... (hope its not bs)

Yeah so he says. It would either be a 3/4" plate with countersunk holes for the k26 flange to EM and another set facing out to the t3 turbo or both flanges welded on either end of a round 1" long tube like other places on ebay. He wanted to know what the pitch was of the m10 turbo studs and I said I'd find out. I've put him on pause tho as an ebayer assured me his tube mani was t3. I'm inquiring

I've been exchanging messages with this ilovetacos guy (diff guy hah). His manifold is this one
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=311422639365&category=33742&pm=1&ds=0&t=1454975040205.

Me: Why is this listed as having a T3 turbo flange but the description says it has all OE flanges?

Him: Thank You for contacting us,
This is a T3 turbo flange,
If you have any questions or concerns please do contact us.

Me: So it's definately not a k24 turbo flange? They are similar but the t3/t4 have a rectangular inside on the flange. I was mostly confused by the title saying k24

His generic answer: Thank You for contacting us,
This item is to fit with AUDI S2 S4 S6 RS2 K24 20V T3/T4.

Me: Ok this is where advertising is getting you guys into murky waters. A "k24" is a turbo produced by the German manufacturer called KKK. It has a turbo flange called k26 or also called k24 sometimes. That is literally what their turbo flange is called, a "k26" flange. A T3 flange is different. If it is in fact a T3 turbo flange then I will buy it tomorrow. If it's a t3/t4 flange, you will need to alter your listing so that it no longer has k24 spelled anywhere in it. It is contradicting to say it is a k24/k26 flanged as well as a T3/T4 flanged exhaust manifold. I'm really just trying to help you get through to the target audience I associate with because this style of manifold with a T3 flange will be a goldmine for you in our audi internet forums.

Another point of importance is that the wastegate flange is for the stock 4 bolt wastegate for these cars. That part is extremely awesome. If you keep posting it as a k24 turbo flanged manifold and have T3 in there as well, people will simply stay away because they have no idea which one it is. I hope you are right! I will give you the money tomorrow is it is truly for a T3 turbo flange. Thanks for reading. I want nothing more than this to be for a t3/t4 turbo! Just trying to help
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As you can tell I'm starting to wander about brain activity over there. However, I don't want to be an jerk off to this place. Also I wasn't certain if I was teaching him legit info lol. I do believe it's called k26 usually but some say k24 flange or whatever

Anyway I will probably buy that one and be the guinea pig for its durability. It will get painted and wrapped with HDI paint and stuff around these parts. Everyone can laugh when it falls off and my turbo and downpipe get lodged under the car. Until then, let's see if this ebay seller is the master of his own domain!

That thing is pot metal bro. Don't waste your time. It will crack. You are not the Guinea pig. There have been many before you. There is no need for testing. Also, that doesn't look like any t3 flange I've ever seen.

If you must get something Chinese, at least make it cast iron.

I'm with Cris on this one. Don't bother with that manifold.

Also, I'll look around, and see if I still have any K24 and T3 gaskets lieing around. If I do, I'll see what I would have to do to make an adaptor plate for you.

Ya I am weary of that POS lol. I almost pulled the trigger on it! Dave, I'm getting the turbo today so I'll be able to see it compared to a k26 flange later. I appreciate your input too tho. Thanks. I'm sure I'll get that same style manifold but I'll spring for the much nicer looking one.

Couldn't sleep last night. Only big turbos will correct my sleep cycle

Let me know if there is anything I can do, including welding cast iron. It's kind of my speciality.