The Project Pad

I'd have to do a side by side of the cfg's to figure what all was changed.. I used this link:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/threads/11637.phtml and made further tweak to my fueling and timing maps in the idle region. Only thing is I need a new AC compressor so it has been without a belt and therefore can't test for its ability to deal with the load of the compressor.

As of today I found that my ABS is overly sensitive on the 200. It causes me to slide into an intersection over around 100 ft total. It wasn't even really slippery out here today with the fresh snow! I tried disabling it with the dash button and that damn thing doesn't seem to work anymore. I unplugged it's brain under the seat and it stops very well now of course. I scratched up the copper electrical connectors on the button with no positive results. Switch? They're not very difficult to take apart if IIRC.

That's crazy about your motor and being connected to the battery drain. Sounds quite frustrating!

Only thing left on the black car is the heated seats, sunroof vent function, the ABS, and a dyno tune Seems like a daunting list even as short as it is. I'll see if the ABS goes off when locking the diff. I wonder if any of those issues would arise from cutting the speed signal wire to the diff actuator box?

Anybody know, is the fog lamp button on the center dash for the future installation of external fog lamps? I have doubts that they put it there just in case hah

The fog light just brightens one of the inner tail lights so people don't slam into you when they're careening through the fog.

If it helps anything at all, I've had no issue with ABS arise from doing the diff lock wire snip.

O'RLY? Hah that's creative. I wonder if mine works. I'll have a check. Actually that's extremely helpful! I hope it's the switch. Dave is sending me one right now so thabks to him I'll know soon. Any idea if the two switches are identical?

Any electrical engineers out there know a cheap/effective way of delaying power to something for 2 or 3 seconds when it's first given power? I'd like to delay switched ignition power for a few seconds to the ON signal wire of my 5000's EBC. If it gets power too quickly it makes an annoying high pitched noise lol. Both the main power source and signal are switched on with ignition and it doesn't like that I guess.

Thanks all

88a5tq wrote:O'RLY? Hah that's creative. I wonder if mine works. I'll have a check. Actually that's extremely helpful! I hope it's the switch. Dave is sending me one right now so thabks to him I'll know soon. Any idea if the two switches are identical?

Any electrical engineers out there know a cheap/effective way of delaying power to something for 2 or 3 seconds when it's first given power? I'd like to delay switched ignition power for a few seconds to the ON signal wire of my 5000's EBC. If it gets power too quickly it makes an annoying high pitched noise lol. Both the main power source and signal are switched on with ignition and it doesn't like that I guess.

Thanks all

Google "delay timer" and you should find something. Here's one example.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerArt-Switch-A ... B00CRYUSR2

Wow that's so cheap! Thanks. I got into it pretty deep 2 years ago but recalled not finding exactly what I needed. I may pick that up for that price.

As a preface, I recall testing for a draw by the main power circuit when isolated from the signal wire and found something I didn't like. That's why they are both switched by ignition.

That one had some DOA reviews with it coming from China after 20-some days in delivery. I bought one that was twice it's price for piece of mind hah

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Fifteen52/?utm_source=emailcampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=retail&utm_campaign=Alzor_Wheel_Holiday_GB

Argh want turbomacs so bad

I've been looking over the wiring diagrams in my bentley. I guess I didn't realize that neither my fog light, seat heaters, or the ABS switch are getting lit up while my lights are on at night. Related possibly to my ABS switch not working?

Yeah those rims are beautiful. Looks like some replica s1 rally rims in there too

Some poking around in the center console area showed that the rear air vents were disconnected at the front rubber boot. That's annoying. Also found alot of those mini osram 2322 bulbs in my non-illuminated switches. When I took the working one from the fogs switch and tried it in both my ABS switches, it still wouldn't light with the others. I also noticed that the heated seat switches weren't lighting either but that they have smaller bulbs soldered in their circuit boards so I couldn't rely on there being a correlation except that all 3 unlit switches are fed power via blue/black wires in the harness. I'm looking for a clue in the bentley.

Anyone have a US source for the osram 2322 bulbs?

The ABS switch bulb is powered by the ignition switch I came to find. Good bulb seems to light intermittently probably from all that horrible green shit they smother the internal contacts with on these. I think it's dielectric grease that's baked over the centuries. It only hinders the continuity problems. I'm having a hard time getting my original Al abs switch apart internally. Covers are all off but it's complicated in there

I'm wondering if I could rig a switch to shut send the signal to the abs relay temporarily? Thinking aloud digitally

Although barely brighter, I opted to change all the switches there to sylvania's 2721 bulbs. 13.5v at 1.2W. Or is it 1.2W at 13.5 v lol?

Small update. With w/m injection, the ability of each compound to absorb intake charge heat and dissipate it is based on how much of each is present in the mixture. I figure it stands to reason that the cooler I keep the mixture prior to injection will give a beneficial increase in that property. I did this with my supply line since it runs from the fender area over the exhaust manifold and turbo/WG area:

Wasn't costly bot difficult and I may even modify my ignition table with the cooler weather arriving.

Besides, my solenoid valve is a big block of aluminum right next to the WG

There is theoretically a small benefit, but we are taking unmeasurable. The benefit of having a colder injection is orders of magnitude smaller than the true reasons why water meth injection us effective. That is, the high specific heat capacity of water and the energy absorbed when changing phases. Do not modify your ignition table based on a marginally cooler mixture of watee/meth.

You're going to run 50:50, right?

SCIENCE! I think if I run any higher than 30% mixture, I'll be relying far too much on the mix for fuel vs the injectors. I am already spraying as little as possible using my new AEM controller and the discontinued nozzle (so small it's been dropped from production lol). I have seen how how much the lambda drops and it makes me uncomfortable. To be specific I'm running 30% methanol. Runs great but spraying volume is worrisome.

So, years back my brother sent me a link to a WW2 study done by mechanical engineers trying to find the effects of w/m injection on aircraft engines. Moral of the story was, in their tests, they found that a 50:50 mixture created the most gains and resulted in a 20-point boost in effective octane ratings.

While neither my brother nor I were able to retrieve said study from our email accounts (my .pdf was corrupted), he did forward me this link:
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/water- ... 0-mix.html

I've only read the first page, but post #11 was particularly interesting.

oooh awww. I don't seem to be getting my thread subscription alerts anymore. We need more alerts
Thanks for the link. I did skip to #11 and found a few points interesting except for I had a hard time reading with all the typos lol.

I'm also disappointed with my inability to run more meth. I just don't understand how a fair sized motor like the 2.2 could be affected so much by this tiny nozzle. Its not even being made anymore! I went from a 15 psi check valve to the zero resistance nature of the solenoid. After changing to the solenoid I did notice that without any changes, that 15 psi increase in actual nozzle pressure caused my lambda to richen probable at least a hundredth. This is the newer v2 AEM controller and it doesn't seem to be any different that the other brands in volume. Has a 150 psi pump that pushes the 5 gallon res from the trunk on forward where they sit together. The last think I want to do is rely too much on proper lamba being maintained in each cylinder by ONLY the w/m mixture I spray at the IC's exit pipe. I would prefer the safety net provided by my 60 lb injectors

I definitely feel more comfortable using launch control with it spraying though.

EDIT: maybe its because Ive always run it with 93 octane in the tank. Perhaps I could run 50:50 or closer if I went to 91? I'm also going to read the rest of that link now.

Further Editing: If post #4 holds any weight it would appear that I could safely run 13 AFR since the majority of my mix is H20. I'm not going to change anything probably though

Okay guys need some advice here. 5k is back up running and I noticed that the rear end noise is louder when turning right versus left and when off throttle. Odd. Is this still my prop shaft or carrier bearing possibly? I think it started after I chipped off that rust on the shaft

I'm bringing bad wheel bearing to the table

Edit: alright so I'm going to say what it is even at the risk of ruining my non-existent reputation.

LOOSE rear wheel bolts lol

Start flinging your dog shit

That's what I was thinking.

It's OK, we've probably all done it.

At least the wheel didn't come off! So that's always a good thing.