The Project Pad

well i set my ECU back up to use 60-2 hall sensor, the one im using is the one that replaces the rear main seal. my problem is the the sensor i got had the plug cut off and i cant find any documentation on what color wire does what.

i have these 3 colors and what i think is what.

red=12v
yellow=the signal
green=ground

i've tested the crank signal input on my jimstim and the trigger log shows that everything is working fine. when i hook everything up to my car i only get trigger's from the cam sensor and nothing from crank sensor. Ive tested my car with the OEM ECU and it starts an runs fine on it as well. can anyone verify that i have it wired correctly?

looks ok, except I think thats a 5v sensor not a 12v sensor. pinout is:

pin1 = 5v, pin2 = signal, pin3=ground


and my notes indicate that yellow is the cabling color for trigger inside the harness.

Thanks marc! i swapped it over to 5V and still no love in the trigger log with the primary trigger.

Here's my trigger log on the car cranking.


Here's the trigger log with the ECU hooked to the jimstim and me messing around.

vwnut8392 wrote:Thanks marc! i swapped it over to 5V and still no love in the trigger log with the primary trigger.

Here's my trigger log on the car cranking.


Here's the trigger log with the ECU hooked to the jimstim and me messing around.

depending on the non-pulled-up voltage of your primary trigger input you might need a pullup to 5v on the sensor signal wire.

try 2.7k to 5v on the signal wire. that sensor might not have liked being hooked to 12v too.....

i'll have to poke around and see if i have that resistor. i have 5v now on pin 1 too.

Here's a video during cranking, i have the probes on the meter between pins 2 and 3.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/VWnut8392/media/VEMS/IMG_0650_zpsb00c7080.mp4.html

lord i hope i didnt hurt that sensor with 12V. if i did its like im doomed to never get my car up and running on this ECU.

vwnut8392 wrote:i'll have to poke around and see if i have that resistor. i have 5v now on pin 1 too.

Here's a video during cranking, i have the probes on the meter between pins 2 and 3.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/VWnut8392/media/VEMS/IMG_0650_zpsb00c7080.mp4.html

lord i hope i didnt hurt that sensor with 12V. if i did its like im doomed to never get my car up and running on this ECU.

as you know, you cant really measure a hall sensor or a vr sensor properly like that. you need a scope.

it doesn't have to be a 2.7k resistor. anything over 1k and under 8k or so should work.

if you need a new sensor, I have the sensor only I could sell (last week I had a customer that just needed the trigger seal assembly out of one of my kits). $70.

i had a 2.2k resistor and tried that between 5v and the trigger with no luck. i have 4.4k too, maybe i should try that. i have an itching feeling that the sensor is bad though which sucks. i had a friend turn the engine over very slowly by hand while trying to get a trigger log and i was watching it with a multimeter at the same time and it seemed to be doing what it was supposed to do. i pulled the ECU back out and hooked it back up to my jimstim just to double check the primary trigger circuit was working and it worked fine.

Another thing that has me thinking is what i have to do to make the primary trigger register with the jimstim. i have the trigger wire hooked to tach terminal on the stim and for some odd reason i get nothing in the trigger log this way. to get a reading like the one pictured above i used the extra tach terminal and jumper from there to the negative side of one of one of the IAC LED's and than a jumper from 12V to the positive side of the same IAC LED and than i start getting pulses in the trigger log. does that seem normal to you?

Here's how i have the stim configured to make it work in the trigger log.
Green is the jumpers and i have 4 turned on on the dip switchs.
red is the wires and jumpers i have setup.

it seemed to be doing what it was supposed to do

Goes to 0v and 5v when turning crank very slowly while hooked up to ecu?

I've given up on the polo rear main as i feel the sensor is shot. i've moved on to a new idea using a VR6 60-2 trigger wheel and the stock AAN damper pulley.

The VR6 trigger wheel is the same diameter as the AAN damper pulley so it doesnt fit over it directly so i had my brother machine down that outer edge a little so that the VR6 trigger wheel fits tightly over it. the end result was this.

machined AAN damper pulley


VR6 trigger wheel fit over AAN damper pulley




it looks like it almost belongs on there lol.

so now im making a bracket to house a crank sensor. i tested this setup with a VR6 cam sensor as my ECU is setup for hall primary but i realized that the VR6 sensor wasnt going to do what i wanted so i i started digging for other solutions to make it work. what i came up with was a crank sensor from a GM LSx as its a magnetized hall sensor. my luck turned around a little as i have an LQ4=(cast iron block LS4) engine sitting in my garage so i grabbed the sensor off of it and wired it up. turns out that it works perfectly. i like the GM sensor as their cheap and readily available unlike the VAG sensors out there so im sticking with it. This is all the further i've gone, i have to remake my bracket for the GM sensor now and than figure out exactly where the trigger wheel needs to live in relation to TDC and the sensor so i can bolt it to the damper pulley.

well i have everything setup, can anyone here verify my trigger wheel and VEMS settings are correct? Also during cranking i get too many secondary triggers, what could be causing this? i have no spark or injector pulse at the moment even with both wheels triggering.



The air gap between my sensor and the wheel