The Project Pad

I was reading about how to check your g4 sensor when you come across a no start issue. I was reading that between pin 1 and 2 you should have approximetly 1000ohms. If you don't get that reading you must replace the sensor. I was checking the resitance on my 200 and I'm getting ~.972 ohms. Since my reading is close to the 1000ohms is it still good? Or is the difference to much? And its bad!

Thanks in advace!

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Does anyone have a good place were I can order a new g4 sensor? I found some on ebay but the last thing I wanna do is buy a bad quality sensor. I tried autohausaz, but there on back order.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

amdisthebest linked these as a good replacement for both g28 and g4 - I need to replace mine and will be buying these type.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CRANK-POSIT ... 6c&vxp=mtr

Found the new relevant one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CRANK-POSIT ... b9&vxp=mtr

I apprciate the link. Gonna order today, hopfully I can get it here next week and have the car running. I only got to drive it once when I picked it up from the shop.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

If your sensor is measuring 972 ohms it's probably fine. I don't know the exact spec, but I think 900-1100 ohms is a reasonable range. Of course I wrote "sensor" but there are two of them... have you checked both? Although honestly I think failure of those sensors is pretty rare.

One (of many) common cause of a no-start on these cars is the distributor being rotated away from the correct position. Is it possible someone moved it trying to change the ignition timing?

Ive read that as well that its not common but after doing the output test, setting my timing to tdc, replacing the distributor with a spare, replacing both knock sensors with spares, removing both sensors and cleaning them ( my flywheel pin is on the flywheel.) The only conslusion i could come up with is that the ignition timing sensor (g4) is bad or in the process of going bad, which is causing me to have no spark. The only thing that concfuses me is that after cranking the little screen flashes the oil symbol 6 times, could the oil pressure switch f22 cause a no spark?

Have you checked + power to coil?

Y

themagellan wrote:Have you checked + power to coil?

Yes I have I have power in the ignition coil all the way up to the dizzy cap. The power isn't going from the dizzy to the spark plug. I doubt its the wires the not that old. I bought them brand new when the engine was in the 3 speed FWD 200. I even tried connecting a spare ignition coil and still no spark. So the way I see it is the dizzy isn't getting the signal to fire the spark plugs up. So it leads me back to the g4 ignition timing sensor. I haven't checked the g28 sensor but I will do it today after work. I even bought a new bentley manual but still haven't found a way to get spark.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Y

themagellan wrote:Have you checked + power to coil?

Yes I have I have power in the ignition coil all the way up to the dizzy cap. The power isn't going from the dizzy to the spark plug. I doubt its the wires the not that old. I bought them brand new when the engine was in the 3 speed FWD 200. I even tried connecting a spare ignition coil and still no spark. So the way I see it is the dizzy isn't getting the signal to fire the spark plugs up. So it leads me back to the g4 ignition timing sensor. I haven't checked the g28 sensor but I will do it today after work. I even bought a new bentley manual but still haven't found a way to get spark.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Very weird dude, good hunting then. Silly question but you have made 100000000% sure that your lead wire is good? I would take one of those other 5 wires that go to the plugs and put one of them in the place of the main wire to coil to rule those out. Also you checked the rotor and everything was cool? Sorry if I am behind in reading!

themagellan wrote:Very weird dude, good hunting then. Silly question but you have made 100000000% sure that your lead wire is good? I would take one of those other 5 wires that go to the plugs and put one of them in the place of the main wire to coil to rule those out. Also you checked the rotor and everything was cool? Sorry if I am behind in reading!

Its all good bro, at this point I'm happy to be getting any kind of feed back. I have not done that with the main wire but I will try it out after work just to double check. The rotor is new as well as the cap. So I doubt that that would be the problem. Either way how would I check the rotor? If I have time this week I might just go back double check all my work. Maybe I'm over looking something.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

themagellan wrote:Very weird dude, good hunting then. Silly question but you have made 100000000% sure that your lead wire is good? I would take one of those other 5 wires that go to the plugs and put one of them in the place of the main wire to coil to rule those out. Also you checked the rotor and everything was cool? Sorry if I am behind in reading!

Its all good bro, at this point I'm happy to be getting any kind of feed back. I have not done that with the main wire but I will try it out after work just to double check. The rotor is new as well as the cap. So I doubt that that would be the problem. Either way how would I check the rotor? If I have time this week I might just go back double check all my work. Maybe I'm over looking something.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Maybe, but at least you have it cornered it seems. The gear inside the distributor isn't broken either right, that would cause a no start symptom for sure

themagellan wrote:Maybe, but at least you have it cornered it seems. The gear inside the distributor isn't broken either right, that would cause a no start symptom for sure

no when I removed the original distributer off the engine I compared them to see if there was any difference. But both gears looked in good shape. I was reading up in the bentley manual that sometimes if the space between the the flywheel pin and g4 sensor is out of spec it could give me the no start. My gut tells me it has to do with the sensors, I'm just hoping its right and not gas haha


Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Did you check to see if you had a a/c signal (while cranking) at the cps?

Dutchbroracer wrote:Did you check to see if you had a a/c signal (while cranking) at the cps?

I have not checked that. Where would I be taking the signal from? Or how would I go about checking for a a/c signal?
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Disconnect the crank postion sensor. Put the leads from your DMM or whatever multi meter you have on the sensor itself. Make sure your multi meter is set on a/c voltage. Then have someone crank the engine over to see if you get any a/c signal. The numbers will be all over the place but if it is producing the a/c signal, your sensor is fine.

What up everyone,

So today I had a chance to work on the 200 for a bit. I decided to check the engine speed sensor (G28) since all of my attention went to the ignition timing sensor (g4). So I was taking the resitance reading of pin 1 and 2 off the engine speed sensor. I wasn't getting any kind of reading. So I went to my local junk yard and was able to find the g28 sensor off an audi 90 20v. Took the reading and got ~.940 ohms. So I replaced the g28 sensor in the 200. The engine does seem to crank a lot faster, but still no spark. I set my timing marks to tdc and still no spark. :???:

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Dutchbroracer wrote:Disconnect the crank postion sensor. Put the leads from your DMM or whatever multi meter you have on the sensor itself. Make sure your multi meter is set on a/c voltage. Then have someone crank the engine over to see if you get any a/c signal. The numbers will be all over the place but if it is producing the a/c signal, your sensor is fine.

I gotta do some running around but I will be trying this to double check the sensors are fine. Thanks for the tip! I appriciate it!

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Another stupid one to add to the list. Have you tried push starting it to see if it makes spark? I only say this because I cannot remember if you have a immobilizer since you swapped from 5 speed to Auto.

themagellan wrote:Another stupid one to add to the list. Have you tried push starting it to see if it makes spark? I only say this because I cannot remember if you have a immobilizer since you swapped from 5 speed to Auto.

The engine came off an 3 speed auto FWD into the 5 speed manual QUATTRO. I tried doing that the first time I couldn't get to start, but I have not tried it since then. Wouldn't be a bad idea to try now that I replaced the (G28) engine speed sensor.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

themagellan wrote:Very weird dude, good hunting then. Silly question but you have made 100000000% sure that your lead wire is good? I would take one of those other 5 wires that go to the plugs and put one of them in the place of the main wire to coil to rule those out. Also you checked the rotor and everything was cool? Sorry if I am behind in reading!

I took the main lead wire and used the main lead wire from the spare wire set and still no spark. So I am 100000000% sure its not the wire.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

themagellan wrote:Very weird dude, good hunting then. Silly question but you have made 100000000% sure that your lead wire is good? I would take one of those other 5 wires that go to the plugs and put one of them in the place of the main wire to coil to rule those out. Also you checked the rotor and everything was cool? Sorry if I am behind in reading!

I took the main lead wire and used the main lead wire from the spare wire set and still no spark. So I am 100000000% sure its not the wire.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2