1989 audi 200 Mc2 help needed

[Fattyalx]

So my audi has been good to me, ever since I bought it and got it running. All of a sudden, (For no reason) it started to give me starting issues. In the warm it'll start and then die out until you give it throttle and after about a minute it'll idle fine and run fine, but it seems like it lacks power until its fully warmed up. When it's cold, or like 50F or below, itll start, run for about 10 seconds and then die whether I give it throttle or not. I replaced the 2 coolant temp sensors, the ISV, I thought it was maybe the decel valve so I replaced that, replaced the Idle sensor, and fuel pump relay. Also I took apart the WUR and cleaned that. I have a second set of injectors I plan to clean out and let soak in cleaner, and new O rings for them as well I want to install sometime. What should I look at next? Also i dont believe theres a vacuum leak, as when It was warmer and I could still drive the car because it would stay running, I took it to work(I work at a dealership) and I smoke tested the vacuum line system and found no leak at all. Most lines are pretty new, I have checked the Michiline man hose, the T hose on the valve cover, the crank case vent hose, nothing has cracks or indicates a vacuum leak. I really am confused as what I should look at next to fix this. Really miss driving this car, been about a month or so since it has moved from the spot it's in. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[PRY4SNO]

If it were me, I'd look at the knock sensors and/or fuel pump next.

[Fattyalx]

If it were me, I'd look at the knock sensors and/or fuel pump next.

Fuel pump was replaced about a year before me buying the car so it's relatively new. Would a knock sensor cause it to die on cold start? How would I test that?

[PRY4SNO]

If it were me, I'd look at the knock sensors and/or fuel pump next.

Fuel pump was replaced about a year before me buying the car so it's relatively new. Would a knock sensor cause it to die on cold start? How would I test that?

Check the Bentley for specs and bust out your multimeter.

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[Fattyalx]

If it were me, I'd look at the knock sensors and/or fuel pump next.

Fuel pump was replaced about a year before me buying the car so it's relatively new. Would a knock sensor cause it to die on cold start? How would I test that?

Check the Bentley for specs and bust out your multimeter.

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Which bentley would that be in? Electronics one has nothing to do with engine, and the engine electrical section in the first one only has battery, alternator, starter and cruise

[PRY4SNO]

Eeesh. Sounds messy. My bible for the b3 coupé is all in one.

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[Fattyalx]

Eeesh. Sounds messy. My bible for the b3 coupé is all in one.

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What section is it in? Just looked through them all and I couldnt find anything Stupid 3 book manuals

[PRY4SNO]

Eeesh. Sounds messy. My bible for the b3 coupé is all in one.

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What section is it in? Just looked through them all and I couldnt find anything Stupid 3 book manuals

Yeah as I said, the B3 Bentley is a one book affair (with supplemental manuals) where the t44 manual is 3 books.

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[IslandRinger]

Posted on MG as well. Check your O2 sensor. Would be good to go over all wiring and grounds as well.

[Noisy Cricket]

Smells like false air to me. Barely runs/stalls when cold and runs okay when it goes into closed loop.

[Fattyalx]

Posted on MG as well. Check your O2 sensor. Would be good to go over all wiring and grounds as well.

How do I go about checking /testing that? I've checked wiring and grounda but I'll check again.

[Fattyalx]

Smells like false air to me. Barely runs/stalls when cold and runs okay when it goes into closed loop.

It seems like it has a vacuum leak but at the same time I've double and triple checked verything. I know 2 injectors have bad o rings, but I've know that for awhile and they were like that back when the car purred like a kitten. I've got more injectors and orings to go in

[88a5tq]

Those orings ARE a vac leak. Perhaps at some point you dislodged whatever kind of buildup that may have been helping keep those 2 leaks in check. Running injector cleaner could've done that even. At least you hope they're that effective lol

[Fattyalx]

Those orings ARE a vac leak. Perhaps at some point you dislodged whatever kind of buildup that may have been helping keep those 2 leaks in check. Running injector cleaner could've done that even. At least you hope they're that effective lol

So should I just replace those two injector orings to eliminate those?

[Noisy Cricket]

YES.

Always start with known problems. Especially cheap and easy to fix problems. Never say "It can't be that".

What might have been a square/loose O-ring may have disintegrated and fallen into the engine, turning a small leak into a massive one.

And note - I did not say "vacuum leak". I said false air. There is a difference. False air is anything between the measuring device and the engine - bad plumbing from the fuel distributor to the turbo,turbo to intercooler, leaky/blown out intercooler (on a 20vt? Unpossible!)... vacuum leaks are just leaks between the throttle body and engine.

Gotta check it all.

I'll stop now before I start a rant that involves things like trying to help people online and then finding out around step 30 that, oh by the way, the alternator is flaky and doesn't always charge well, or it has a bad misfire because of an arcing coil but that doesn't have anything to do with the ignition staying on with the key out (gee you think MAYBE electrical spikes from a bad alternator or arcing coil MIGHT be causing the computers to go haywire, possibly?)...

Fix known problems first. Even if they seem minor or unrelated.

[Fattyalx]

YES.

Always start with known problems. Especially cheap and easy to fix problems. Never say "It can't be that".

What might have been a square/loose O-ring may have disintegrated and fallen into the engine, turning a small leak into a massive one.

And note - I did not say "vacuum leak". I said false air. There is a difference. False air is anything between the measuring device and the engine - bad plumbing from the fuel distributor to the turbo,turbo to intercooler, leaky/blown out intercooler (on a 20vt? Unpossible!)... vacuum leaks are just leaks between the throttle body and engine.

Gotta check it all.

I'll stop now before I start a rant that involves things like trying to help people online and then finding out around step 30 that, oh by the way, the alternator is flaky and doesn't always charge well, or it has a bad misfire because of an arcing coil but that doesn't have anything to do with the ignition staying on with the key out (gee you think MAYBE electrical spikes from a bad alternator or arcing coil MIGHT be causing the computers to go haywire, possibly?)...

Fix known problems first. Even if they seem minor or unrelated.

I've checked all hoses, and pretty positive the inter cooler is fine, I have a 20v ic with crossover pipe to go in sometime soon. When I smoke tested the system, found no leaks in the ic, or pipes to and from it along with vacuum lines, I guess first thing I'll do today is replace those o rings. Any tricks to easily removing injectors?

[IslandRinger]

It helps to have the right tool.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/40036

You can use a set of angled Needle-nose as well. I picked up the tool and it makes pulling a breeze.
O2 sensor testing is fairly easy if I can recollect it from my memory. Back-probe the signal wire and run your other multimeter lead to a solid ground. Run the engine and let it get up to running temp. You should see the voltage fluctuating (mV). It should fluctuate between ~0.1V - ~0.9V. If the voltage does not fluctuate, its a good indicator it's pooched. Good idea to replace the O2 sensor if last service is unknown in any case.

[88a5tq]

When I was a younger and even less patient man, I recall paying nearly $50 to get mine overnighted. I'm only slightly less stupid these days

[Fattyalx]

It helps to have the right tool.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/40036

You can use a set of angled Needle-nose as well. I picked up the tool and it makes pulling a breeze.
O2 sensor testing is fairly easy if I can recollect it from my memory. Back-probe the signal wire and run your other multimeter lead to a solid ground. Run the engine and let it get up to running temp. You should see the voltage fluctuating (mV). It should fluctuate between ~0.1V - ~0.9V. If the voltage does not fluctuate, its a good indicator it's pooched. Good idea to replace the O2 sensor if last service is unknown in any case.

Got it running, mainly cause today was way warm. replaced eacho O ring (except one because it flew off and went somewhere in the installing process), and hopefully that has an effect tomorrow when it's colder!!

[IslandRinger]

Nicely done.

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[Fattyalx]

Nicely done.

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Just gotta see if it'll be cooperative tomorroe when it's cold!!

[Fattyalx]

Well she started and idled better today, a lot better than in the past. Before I had to give it gas for about a minute, but now it held pretty good fluctuated a bit but held well. Gonna glean up my second set of injectors and get those flowing well and in soon hopefully, now that I know how easy it is to get them out

[88a5tq]

Good. So ARE you hearing the cricket valve? I.e. the fuel frequency valve. I think you should only hear it after the car hits open loop. The thing is that adjustment also affects cold starts simply because the air plate height determines what DC the valve runs at. The closer to 35 and 40% the valve runs when motor at operating temp, the more effective it will be at adjusting AFR for all starting conditions.

[88a5tq]

Just saw on mg it is working. Check those #s with a dwell meter set on 4 cylinder mode from harbor freight or wherever

[Fattyalx]

Well when I turn the key(I have a fuse in the fuel pump) I feel soemthing vibrating and hear something working on the cis unit