Easy way to swap rear diff bushing without press?
Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:04 pm
Buying SteveJ in texas' Alpine coupe soon!
I just spoke to him on the phone and was told he grabbed a B4 hood in the same color with the grill and the radiator support. He is going to go back tomorrow to get the headlights.
here is a run down of the car so far:
The car runs very well now with the 034 injectors and starts right up every time after I put in the replacement distributor in. The cylinder head was completely rebuilt by Raudel at Reisu Motorsports here in Houston, and the cost of straightening the cylinder head and associated machine work (valve job, valve guides, valve seals, etc.) was over $900. The total bill for the whole head rebuild and new head gasket was $2300 as I thought I was going to keep the car forever. This included a brand new auxiliary radiater at a cost of over $200, and he put the genuine Pentosin coolant in the car.
Had the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and other assorted tidbits done so that is all new as well. As a result, the timing belt has less than 2,000 miles on it but I cannot tell you how much as the odometer does not work on the car...it's been sitting at 200,000+ miles since Steve got it.
Just replaced with an uncracked fog light on the driver's side front end so the fogs are both good, but I have not had time to trace the wiring as they will not come on with the switch - they used to work but water got into the old cracked drivers side light and may have popped the fuse.
the thermostat that is stuck open, that is something that will need to be addressed.
I have the replacement door in storage, it appears to have a good regulator on it but I am not sure because the window was broken out at the junkyard when took it off the car. will need to move the drivers side window from the old door to the new one and attach it to the regulator.
bought inside grey door panels from Dean16v on MG to replace the crappy ones that are currently in the car.
ECU bought from someone was chipped, put that in the car when I was troubleshooting the no-start condition so the car is 'chipped'. I have no idea what chip it is as no one ever said anything about the chip when I posted questions about it on MG. I also have the stock ECU as well.
The car passed inspection easily this time around with the 034 injectors in it, the Cat Converter is new as well (required in Houston). Whover had the car before me straight piped the exhaust back to the rear muffler, since they eliminated the resonator before the rear axles it sounds kind of "blatty" when it gets up there in the revs around 3-4 thousand RPMs...I was going to put a resonator on the car where the resonator used to be to try and tone it down but obviously that will be up to you.
Back tires are almost new and the fronts are okay (good enough to pass inspection). One of the tires has a slow leak but only leaks down after the car hasn't been driven for 5 months and its been sitting.
Attachment ( 28663 ) : IMG_0415.jpg
I just spoke to him on the phone and was told he grabbed a B4 hood in the same color with the grill and the radiator support. He is going to go back tomorrow to get the headlights.
here is a run down of the car so far:
The car runs very well now with the 034 injectors and starts right up every time after I put in the replacement distributor in. The cylinder head was completely rebuilt by Raudel at Reisu Motorsports here in Houston, and the cost of straightening the cylinder head and associated machine work (valve job, valve guides, valve seals, etc.) was over $900. The total bill for the whole head rebuild and new head gasket was $2300 as I thought I was going to keep the car forever. This included a brand new auxiliary radiater at a cost of over $200, and he put the genuine Pentosin coolant in the car.
Had the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and other assorted tidbits done so that is all new as well. As a result, the timing belt has less than 2,000 miles on it but I cannot tell you how much as the odometer does not work on the car...it's been sitting at 200,000+ miles since Steve got it.
Just replaced with an uncracked fog light on the driver's side front end so the fogs are both good, but I have not had time to trace the wiring as they will not come on with the switch - they used to work but water got into the old cracked drivers side light and may have popped the fuse.
the thermostat that is stuck open, that is something that will need to be addressed.
I have the replacement door in storage, it appears to have a good regulator on it but I am not sure because the window was broken out at the junkyard when took it off the car. will need to move the drivers side window from the old door to the new one and attach it to the regulator.
bought inside grey door panels from Dean16v on MG to replace the crappy ones that are currently in the car.
ECU bought from someone was chipped, put that in the car when I was troubleshooting the no-start condition so the car is 'chipped'. I have no idea what chip it is as no one ever said anything about the chip when I posted questions about it on MG. I also have the stock ECU as well.
The car passed inspection easily this time around with the 034 injectors in it, the Cat Converter is new as well (required in Houston). Whover had the car before me straight piped the exhaust back to the rear muffler, since they eliminated the resonator before the rear axles it sounds kind of "blatty" when it gets up there in the revs around 3-4 thousand RPMs...I was going to put a resonator on the car where the resonator used to be to try and tone it down but obviously that will be up to you.
Back tires are almost new and the fronts are okay (good enough to pass inspection). One of the tires has a slow leak but only leaks down after the car hasn't been driven for 5 months and its been sitting.
Attachment ( 28663 ) : IMG_0415.jpg
