The Project Pad

so. the pipe will fit over the axle and between the rear subframe and the floor, ill need to oval it a bit though to get it between the pass side rear diff mount and the floor.






also got around to rolling/pulling the rear fenders as well so i can fit these 9 inch wide wheels with a 255 tire under there. got a bit more room then i thought i was going to get in the back, hopefully it'll all work out as planned and i won't need to graft on any crazy flares.

Brute force, I like it!

zerb wrote:you mean cutting the floor and welding in a piece that will allow for more clearance over the axle?

at that point i may just oval the tubing a bit to get it to fit before i did that to be honest.

yeah dont be a sissy

its pretty easy to mig in a small piece of 5"u bend to the floor so so can run the round over oval tubing but also keep a nicer more open radius

the spot up over the axle the pipe will actually fit just fine, its the spot where it has to get up into the axle area, right between the passenger side rear diff mount and the floor, thats where it wont fit.

put the old wheels on and dropped the rear of the car on the ground just to see what was what, i THINK i can get the wheel/tire combo i am looking to get under there now, but we will see. according to all of the wheel/tire calcs i use online it will be close. I'm going to get a tire hopefully from my buddy who works at the local tire shop sometime this week and then we will get that mounted on the one rim i have and see how it looks.

i tried to space the wheel/tire combo i have now out from the hub to get it to sit about where the wider setup will, but the studs are too short.

that looks like it hurt

well, the car is getting resprayed this winter so i figured while i was at it i might as well do ALL the bodywork i would ever want to do ya know?

shaved the doors, both the middle channel and I'm going to do the lower trim as well. removed the little wing on the trunk and shaved those holes. rolled the rear fenders and possibly will roll the fronts a bit if they need it as well.

Well. Got the test fit tire today. And all is well. They fit in the rear under tr fender and they fit in the front without rubbing on the steering shit. I = stoked.

that looks awesome

Thanks man! I hope I can get the flares nice and smooth with some body filler because right now they are a little wavy. If not. I'll have to look into some other options.

the idea may be to just get some mk2 molding/flares on the car.....its always been an idea in my head but i never attempted it really. now that the metal clears, you could feasibly just get the mk2 plastic flares and pop them right over the metal, eliminating the need to get the metal arches PERFECT. then run the plastic rocker piece that they have as well. done. i have front flares that fir perfectly on the audi stuff, ill have to try and get my hands on a set of rears tomorrow to see if this idea will work. if you wanted to go CRAZY, we were even throwng around scooping up a mk2 jetta rear bumper to see if we could get that on the car somehow someway, and if it could look good. that we the rear flares had something to tuck right under. we will have to see.

Looking good, you can make those work without bolt on flares. From my experience, you might want to flare the area where the flares meet the bumper a little more. Bang the shit out of it, it will pull out with a pipe or a hammer. That is the spot that will rub.. I had to trim the bumper a bit to fit the tires a bit too. I put masking tape On the inside of the flares then went and tried to bottom on the suspension, and pulled them out until the masking tape was umolested. This was for 235's, I always thought I could pull off 255's back there like you are.

i can totally see, now that i look closer at the pics, where youre talking about. once i lower the car more, that does seem like it could be a trouble area. the only other body spot that looks back IMO as of now is where the little channel was on the rear fender right where it meets the door, where the trim used to sit, that as you can tell in the pics is all wavy right now. also directly below that right at the rocker there is some body cancer....1990 audi thats been in the northeast since then....so ill have to attend to that as well. i couldnt imagine 275's in there man, i give you even more credit now for what you did.

i think i may swap to the coupe hubs up front as well too, just to get the wheels out away from the steering arm a few more MM's.

So do you think those wheels would clear the suspension/steering/Boxster calipers on a 4000q with coilovers & 90q 2 pcs struts? I know the body would need lots of work to clear them... I am assuming you have 255-40-17's.

yes thats the size that i have. ill try and throw that wheel on the front again tonight and get some pictures for you in there so you can see. i myself have the g60s in the front and they cleared fine, never had a porsche caliper to know the size difference of one.

So then my roller worked?

yes sir your roller worked. gonna move onto the fronts tomorrow hopefully, been messing with this down pipe the past few days trying to get that all squared away.

theres still something in me that wants to attempt to get VW plastic flares on there now still to cover up the metal though....


also, 4 inch pipes weren't really meant to go under these chassis, even with the custom tunnel to go directly over the passenger side transmission mount its still a motherfucker to keep things tight to the body, luckily the car won't be slammed or else this would be a major problem here, we will see. going to try and oval the aluminum straight section of the exhaust to allow for more ground clearance perhaps, need to get it on the ground first and see where we are at.

cheet a bit, cut that thing another 1/4 inch on a slight angle it should tuck right up there, it will never go ower rear dif tho with out cutting up body.
i got it done ;D was not easy btw viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16745&start=2100

Attachment ( 28810 ) : 4 dp and ex.jpg

fasterthenrs2 wrote:cheet a bit, cut that thing another 1/4 inch on a slight angle it should tuck right up there, it will never go ower rear dif tho with out cutting up body.
i got it done ;D was not easy btw viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16745&start=2100

Attachment ( 28809 ) : 4'' dp.jpg

ill have to go down there and see what i can do. thanks for the link.

zerb wrote:ill have to go down there and see what i can do. thanks for the link.

it looks like you have more than enough skill to make that happen

i will get that 4" pipe over the rear diff mount and out the back of the car. by oval-ing it. this was a thicker gauge piece that i had lying around, but you get the idea.



got the passenger side IC pipe done too.

is that a vanjen clamp? how are they

yes, i have them on every intercooler pipe connection, no silicone and tbolt clamps here. i have no complaints with them as of yet, COULD be a little tricky for those engine bays where the piping gets tight, but every issue i have ran into during the fabrication process i have been able to get around. they arent the cheapest, but it removes one more thing from the equation when youre trying to build something thats 'reliable' as possible at this level. same reason behind the push to conect vac/boost lines, removes zipties and cheap silicone vac line.

how much flex can those clamps take