Marc's 1990 4.2L V8 Twin Turbo Coupe Quattro

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Marc
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Post by Marc »

Toxcheap wrote:Marc think those four piston calipers require a bigger master?
Bleeders are facing up right :P


Hmm, I've never heard of anyone else having this problem when putting on bigger calipers? My next step will be to block off various ports on the master to see how that affects the pedal.

yes, bleed screws are facing up :slap:
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Lt. Sarge

Post by Lt. Sarge »

I've got 4 piston 996 calipers, and my pedal is plenty stiff. I am running a hydraulic setup though I believe, not vacuum assisted.
Josh

Post by Josh »

adjust the rod on the vacuum booster? Sounds like u might be off a bit when u swapped to vacuum assist?
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

newt wrote:Pressure bled them?

I've had similar bleeding problems on my 90 and had to flow a ton of fluid through i with a proper pressure bleeder to clear it all up.


yes, always pressure bled. I have just discovered that my brake booster does not hold vacuum, tho.. time to add to the order apparently! :)
Marc Swanson
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

Josh wrote:adjust the rod on the vacuum booster? Sounds like u might be off a bit when u swapped to vacuum assist?


it puts the pedal as far out as it will go as it is.
Marc Swanson
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black-wolf

Post by black-wolf »

i have seen a bad master do this before. the primary cup blows out and the fluid pushes past to the secondary side.. no leak, but no primary either. if audis are set up the same as I think then your stopping with one fron and the opposite rear. bleeding via pedal will seem to work ok since there is little pressure to push the bad seal to opening. just a thought.
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

black-wolf wrote:i have seen a bad master do this before. the primary cup blows out and the fluid pushes past to the secondary side.. no leak, but no primary either. if audis are set up the same as I think then your stopping with one fron and the opposite rear. bleeding via pedal will seem to work ok since there is little pressure to push the bad seal to opening. just a thought.


ok, so here's a good question, what is the best master cylinder I can get that will bolt to the vacuum resevoir? (eg largest bore)
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Toxcheap

Post by Toxcheap »

I believe 5000's and S4/S6 had the best up to the late 90's now with all the new Audi's with massive brakes I'm not sure.
RSCoupe

Post by RSCoupe »

The larger the master cylinder bore, the less feel you will have...
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

RSCoupe wrote:The larger the master cylinder bore, the less feel you will have...


but the more fluid flow per inch of pedal travel, which is what I'm after.
Marc Swanson
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black-wolf

Post by black-wolf »

the 5k and 200 avants, and probably the s4 and v8's. the avants use a diff one than the sedans.
Josh

Post by Josh »

your stock coupe quattro is 25mm which is the largest. V8/20020v/s4 have 25mm too, but they're different because they have only two outlets
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

bad master cylinder confirmed. Ordered a new CQ brake master. Car is still driveable, basically only using half the master cylinder.

For ha-ha's today I unhooked the cut valve to let it run straight out the side full time. Holy hell its loud. And I liiiiiiiike it! Not going to leave it that way but I will for the drag strip :)
Marc Swanson
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

anybody seen this happen to an audi rear subframe on a non-rally car???

Image

Image

Looks like the spot welds busted open and it just started opening like a tin can :-o

I had some new rear tie rods to put in so I welded it shut and painted it up while I was in there, as well as seam welded the other side for good measure...

Image

I need to take the subframe down later anyway once my suspension arrives to do the subframe bushings so I'll powdercoat it at that point..


yikes.
Marc Swanson
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a_CQ

Post by a_CQ »

Hmmm, should of welded mine when it was out last year. I'll be watching it.
owdlvr

Post by owdlvr »

Seems to be more common the coupes for some reason.

Weird that I've never split one...knocks on desk...

-Dave
Corey

Post by Corey »

Very often :tard:

on Torsen/turbo equipped cars. It is to do with the twisting motion, all high bhp ones we do require seam welding to prevent this.
Toxcheap

Post by Toxcheap »

yup that's happened on everyone of my cars, and I've found it even on ones I've bought.
Ronald G Wainwright+

Post by Ronald G Wainwright+ »

Marc, you got any intercooler's on the car?
I went through a few pages & I couldn't find anything..messy thread to try too find info on..but my minds still boggled over nate's thread :tard:
Derracuda
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Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:22 pm

Post by Derracuda »

yeah... two intercoolers ;)
Ronald G Wainwright+

Post by Ronald G Wainwright+ »

Yeah I seen them. One front mount & the other is tucked up in the pass side frame rail area.
Thanx Derek :wink:
WAUG0806

Post by WAUG0806 »

I was impressed at how well it handled the armpit hot and humid weather and the autocross paddock here at the OSQ IV GTG...

lots of hot hardware packed under that hood 8)
Toxcheap

Post by Toxcheap »

WAUG0806 wrote:lots of hot hardware packed under that hood 8)


Think he's trying to compensate for other "short" coming? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Marc
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Post by Marc »

new mastercylinder, same problem :(

not sure what's going on, only thing I can figure is something wrong with the linkage attached to the vacuum booster, so new vacuum booster is the next step. EG, the rod that runs through the vacuum booster doesn't start pushing on the master cylinder rod until too far down the travel. It isn't the adjustment, its as far out externally as it can go.

I probably should hold off making the car any faster until I can make it stop reasonably well.. ;)
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Toxcheap

Post by Toxcheap »

bummer!!
Can't say what it could be.... never had problems like this. It must be just you, you couldn't get that cart bled either remember? :wink:
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