The Project Pad

FYI, I haven't ever run bump stops in the rear. It is very rare that the back bottoms out (you have to be REALLY DUMPED to bottom the back end out). Also, I know the front Bilsteins have internal bump stops... not sure on the rears, but you might want to check on that.

I don't believe the rears have bumpstops built in. But I'm pretty sure you'll be fine. The only time you'd need bump stops is if you let the perch ring explode and have it completely bottom out the shock. That probably does some damage... x_X

Something to look into while doing bushings in the rear.
http://www7.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php ... 40&start=0
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/pr ... rod=9.9484

Yep, that was what I was thinking lol (almost have to have the perch let go before you'll ever bottom them out)

The rear end is back together and it drives!
Will post a write up later and a few pics!

So nice man so so nice.

Great thread, looking forward to the updates.

Update:
Not as many pictures as I had hoped but oh well.

Note all the nice new blue bushings


The moment


With the brakes, new reman calipers so the parking brake works now!

Time to order parts for the front. Sources for front subframe bushings and transmission mounts, etc are encouraged.
It is at highest it can be because the front is on stock suspension, so no need for a final picture yet.

That is literally going to feel insane.... cheers to you going all the way with everything

themagellan wrote:That is literally going to feel insane.... cheers to you going all the way with everything

It already drives better with just the rear done. Not super bumpy or anything. I can fit a finger in the gap between wheel and car and it still has 3/4" left of down on the coilover

Looks like a van in this picture
I can fit my fingers in between the fender and the wheel. Need to get some 17s with some better tires, 10.5-11" wide and make it fit a bit better.
Still have 0.5"-0.75" of drop left.

Coilover parts and bushings for the front are starting to come.
Should be done within July hopefully.

Next question....Where do I go from here?
There will be money being put toward the car as long as I have a job, so expense is really nothing just the time it takes to get there.
Suggestions?

Intake, exhaust(header, dp, 3"stainless), new rods, coil packs, etc?

What are good next steps to take after the car is running well on VEMS, refurbished suspension all around,and a 'sport' suspension?

Individual coils would probably be a good upgrade next. Allowing you to tweak timing more.

pilihp2 wrote:Individual coils would probably be a good upgrade next. Allowing you to tweak timing more.

Where do I obtain?
EFIExpress has the kit for the UrS4/S6. http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/produ ... ucts_id=18
Will this work for the 3B in my 1991 200?

Call Marc up. He'll set you up with a set of coils, bracket, and wires if you need them. Should be able to help you out with stuff for a harness as well.

I'd only do rods if you plan to open it up anyway... I'd only do anything having to do with piping fabrication once you've got your turbo of choice selected and bolted on. Little things can change a lot!

loxxrider wrote:I'd only do rods if you plan to open it up anyway... I'd only do anything having to do with piping fabrication once you've got your turbo of choice selected and bolted on. Little things can change a lot!

I've figured this. I want to do a new downpipe with single 3" exhasut but I know I need to wait until I get the turbo, manifold, wastegate I want to run for the long term.

Is it worth doing piston, valves and stuff?

20VAvant wrote:

loxxrider wrote:I'd only do rods if you plan to open it up anyway... I'd only do anything having to do with piping fabrication once you've got your turbo of choice selected and bolted on. Little things can change a lot!

I've figured this. I want to do a new downpipe with single 3" exhasut but I know I need to wait until I get the turbo, manifold, wastegate I want to run for the long term.

Is it worth doing piston, valves and stuff?

I'd say no on the pistons, valves, etc. unless you are looking for more than about 500 hp. Less than that, and the stock stuff does just fine. The only caveat is that sometimes the stock valves like to poop the bed at around 200k miles... I think there are a ton of these on the road that that isn't the case for... it could be for a million reasons, but I believe there is a slight trend there, especially when making a lot of power.

One thing to hold you over which I found entertaining when I first bought my car is to unbolt the exhaust right after the cats. It isn't too ridiculously loud (no louder than a 3" with straight thru muffler) and sounds pretty dang good!

[/quote]

I'd say no on the pistons, valves, etc. unless you are looking for more than about 500 hp. Less than that, and the stock stuff does just fine. The only caveat is that sometimes the stock valves like to poop the bed at around 200k miles... I think there are a ton of these on the road that that isn't the case for... it could be for a million reasons, but I believe there is a slight trend there, especially when making a lot of power.

One thing to hold you over which I found entertaining when I first bought my car is to unbolt the exhaust right after the cats. It isn't too ridiculously loud (no louder than a 3" with straight thru muffler) and sounds pretty dang good![/quote]

I'm about at that 200K mark... The engine at the moment has very clicky valves how it is. Since I've never seen another 200 in my life I have no idea if this is normal
I'm also not opposed to 500+ in due time...like you said, if I hit 450HP and drive it for a few weeks/days, I'm probably gonna want more... I plan on this being my project car for a long time. A lot of this is up for discussion and in the air though!

Also, been there done that While fixing exhaust leaks we had it unbolted before the cats, got quite a few looks around town. It has open exhaust until the stock rear muffler at the moment and sounds glorious.

20VAvant wrote:Well it's about time I start a thread on my car.
A few months ago I had some extra cash laying around and wanted a car project to work on. I had decided to buy an engine and transmission from an 89 RX7, run a turbo, and then transplant it into a body. I was a few weeks away from doing so when a buddy of mine up at school asked our group of friends if anyone would be interested in buying his old Audi. At first I was a definite no, not too much of an Audi fan. A week or two later we were helping him put insulation up in his garage and I spotted the car he was talking about. Upon first glance, I wasn't very impressed. Large, diving boards off the front and rear, massive wheel gap, and chrome to top it all off.

The next weekend it was in my driveway. $1500.00 167K Miles, completely and utterly bone stock, except for the radio!

It was the next night after helping with his garage that I found myself on Google. 1991 Audi 200 searches. Wasn't very impressed with hp/tq ratings and parts availability and cost wasn't helping either. Then I found a website with the 200 20V Turbo Quattro. That got my attention and fast! A few minutes later I stumble upon a huge deciding factor in my purchase. Chris's (loxxrider) 200 on stanceworks. Lowered, big ass turbo, awd beast. How could you pass up the opportunity to buy your own?

That is how it all started.

I've been a little sloppy about pictures so far, but I hope to start documenting my work a little better.

When I got the car it had a rough idle, as it hadn't been driven in almost 2 years, but it sorted itself out about 2 or three drives later. It had a torn passenger side outer CV boot, which later became my worst nightmare. A week after owning the car it sat up in my garage on stands as I frantically search the internet for replacement front half shafts. Nothing. As we attempted to pull the CV off, a combination of mistakes, rushing time, and Audi nEwbness took place. The axle bolt stripped. I finally sourced one a few days later and payed a premium for it, but it's fixed and was my first lesson on taking my time and having patience with this car.

My next fix was a non functioning speedometer and odometer. Pulled the dash, read an article about a common connection problem on the panel, soldered it back up, fixed. I still can't source an odometer gear if anyone can help!
After that it was exhaust, it didn't sound bad. It actually had a pretty nice sound for what I was used too. It's not the most pretty work and spliced into a few pieces but it's leak free and sounds great now!
Although the wooden shift knob is extremely classy, I had some 7075 laying around and decided to make my own. Another buddy up at school helped produce this.
The next addition was new lighting. It took me a few nights to finally admit that I was indeed driving in complete darkness. Stock lights on this think were horrendous!
DDM Tuning HIDsput in and now I have the intensity of the sun at a flip of a switch.
Also added LED license plate bulbs and running lights.
I will try to keep this thread up to date and starting buying more parts soon!
Looking for turbo, clutch, and really any other recommendations and ideas!

Great Work dude ! Really I can' stop myself to appreciate your post. Thanks for these photos :-)

Starting is getting a little bit better, but it's starting to run a little weird. Possibly this 93 degree weather were seeing. Also noticed recently that when I start to engine brake and I get pretty slow speed in that gear that i'm having loud popping backfire, which it has never done before. I also fear the worst that my head gasket is not liking the new 18PSI and leaking a little bit of coolant...:/ Any suggestions with the backfire? Are these two related?

Sounds like fuel cut is turning off which will result in some popping. You can adjust that via the decel settings. If you have a (major) head gasket problem, you will see it in oil or coolant. What makes you think you have a problem?

Coolant level is slowly going down and there are no visible signs on the block anywhere. I'll need to keep a better eye on it. Would fuel cut be related to the car jerking really hard when clutch out coasting and slowing down?

For reference I have a short 1-3 pull attached.

That rear suspension work looks awesome! Friendly warning about spring bind though, if you have the coils set to that same height as in the picture, your spring will collapse on itself before the shock does which would fold up your threaded collars. Watch out for that! Otherwise, very envious of your rear suspension bushing work. I need to do that.