The Project Pad

Yeah, mounted where it is I had room behind the speaker and about an inch between the speaker and the door card. It would have to be shallow but you could definitely do it. Make me a pair too... Haha

Hard to see, but if you didn't use a two way and used a woofer and a tweeter you'd have quite a bit of space. And these are fairly deep speakers.

No big updates as I'm out of town, but have these ready to go in.



Also have some good company. Maybe it'll rub off on the avant a little...

I just mounted my new 5 1/4 speakers today. They actually sound pretty damned good. Just need a small sub to fill the rest in now. There is definitely a ton of room there for mounting whatever speaker you want. I'm almost tempted to still try the 5 1/4 focal subwoofers in there, but it'd require sealing the doors. Oh well, it sounds good enough now that I'm fairly happy! It better for almost $200 each for regular old drivers by themselves!

How is yours sounding? I have my 4" dash crossed over at around 100 hz with 12db per decade high-pass and the 5 1/4 are crossed over at 60 hz, 12 db/decade also as their frequency response is to 48 hz or so. They excel in upper midbass, so I'll probably go with a smaller sub to blend well with them. Or big sub and get front door speakers in too

My setup is pretty much cobbled together, I have infinity kappa 3.5" speakers in the front and hertz diecis for the rear. The rears definitely sound pretty decent, but could have more mid bass. I haven't really gone through and tuned everything yet but I generally set the HPF crossover at 120 hz for the front and 80hz for the rears. I don't really have any more adjustability than that. What heady it are you running?

Yeah, that sounds about right for your fronts. Mine will go to 90 Hz, so I crossed over at either 100 or 120 actually, I forget. I may increase the 5 1/4 to 70 or 80 when I get a sub just to reduce the chance of damage.

The head unit I have came with the car. I didn't like it at first, but I just figured out the other day that it has a DSP which allows for time delays, phasing, etc. You can do high pass filters in steps of 10 Hz and can change the slope in steps of 6 dB. I wish it had low pass filters too. I'm going to get a JBL MS8 DSP though so the head unit's DSP capabilities wont even matter at that point. DSPs really are critical for proper in-car listening! The one on the head unit isn't ideal, but it does help raise the soundstage a lot and the mids in the rear doors actually sound like they are closer to the front that they are with it. I can only imagine how much magic the MS8 is going to do

My deck is pretty bare bones in terms of signal processing capability, 20hz intervals on the filters and no other adjustment, and only a three band EQ. I got a good deal on it and was just happy it had RCA outs for all the channels and decent DACs.

Looking good! The more posts the better. I've been trying to clean mine up at a snail's pace... learning as I go so it's awesome reading threads like this

Welp, just got back from a 650 mile road trip, ran great except for some full boost misfire when it's hot out. Thinking maybe water meth...

Also got at least 27 mpg =D
Odo doesnt work, but gps says I got that not including a couple of significant detours.

Small update, thank god for flex head ratchets...




These mustang mounts fit so well, whoever discovered them is awesome.
Unfortunately I'm still getting a bit of a clunk, I'm picking up a cat back exhaust that should help the exhaust/driveshaft clearance issue I'm having. Other than that the last driveline mount that isn't upgraded is the snub mount and the driveshaft carrier. I'm starting to suspect the carrier, but we'll see.

Also, I'm getting impatient...

I have rs2 replica injectors, going to steal the VEMS from my 90 for the time being, and just need to get this housing back and get the turbo balanced. Just have to order connectors from efiexpress to build an econoseal --> motronic jumper harness.

Since I have to balance the k24/7400 anyways I'm seriously debating a drop in billet wheel from ARD, they're pretty affordable and supposed to net 20-30 horsepower on the Volvo, I imagine id see similar or better gains on my car with the VEMS. Hmmm...

Alright guys, dilemma... I've about expended my budget on this turbo upgrade, have a little bit of slack to work with. Should I run a good stock mani or pick up an ebay rs2 replica and clean it up?

By memory, the OEM manifold is good to around 350-400 bhp. In that case, I'd say run it as is for now and save for a quality upgrade.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.

I'm wondering the same thing for when it comes time to upgrade my avant with TTRS or EFR turbo. Hank is trying to convince me I have to upgrade lol

For what it's worth, I bought an eBay manifold that was recommended to me on MG. It's held up pretty well for the 20k miles I've put on it so far, and the casting looks decent (didn't have to clean up much).

For the pricing, it was no question for the peace of mind I got that cylinders 1 and 5 won't run hotter, but when the time comes, I will spring for a high quality manifold. I can find you the seller if you're interested.

Is this the ho version or regular rs2?

I've been looking for that manifold, I have the regular RS replica on the shelf, it's ok. I've heard good things about those wagner looking ones but I can't find them anywhere now.

It's this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-RS2-KKK- ... 5d463b7631

it's priced so high because they're out of them

Here's some good info for comparison:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/196904.phtml

Another option is a re-welded eBay tube header. I wish there was something between eBay crap and a $900+ upgrade. I could maybe swing 3-400 but an IMS or real Wagner manifold is out of the question unfortunately.

Soon...

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75608

$550 euro

I have my work cut out for me this weekend. Just need to cut some things out...

It's funny, with all the tube blacked out I nearly didn't realize who's car that was.

Well I think I'll be sticking with the stock manifold till it becomes a restriction. I'll take a look inside and see if there's anything I can do to clean it up, but looking at the numbers I'm not even sure the RS2 copy is worth it flow wise.

All I'm doing now is waiting on my turbine housing, connector kit from Marc, and trying to decide what to do about my compressor wheel.

The wheel in the turbo is damaged, and I have a replacement wheel for it, so I'll need to swap it and send it out to get balanced. The issue is since I have to balance it anyways do I drop $180 for a drop in billet wheel? Supposedly good for 32-37 horses on the Volvos, if I could get 30-40 more horsepower for that amount of money I'd be pretty happy. But then also the factory volvo setup has been shown to make 300-320 whp, do I even want to try to push more on stock rods?

Hmm...

Well I just put my exhaust on and I was looking for my clunk. The driveshaft carrier is ok but the u joint has a little play in it, but then I noticed the rotational play in the driveshaft, and the clunking inside the diff... So now I gotta find a diff and driveshaft or find time to drive to my parts car and pull it in the parking lot