Derracuda's Project Alpine 4kq *Comatose*

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derracuda

Post by derracuda »

3bAudios wrote:looks good Derek, seems like you have been spending lots of time on the cars lately, what ever happened with that girl you were into a while back? :woowoo: on the car stuff man, its looking great as usual!



the girl doesn't follow me to CA, so it's easier to concentrate on cars when i'm here :)

here's a pic tutorial about some front CV's....

on the right is a 90q 20v outer CV cup, on the left, the A8 front outer..
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here you can see they have the same hub splines, but the area that rides just inside the carrier where the ABS tone ring is... is much larger..
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this is the A8 CV on the left, 200 CV on the right, and you can see the taper at the outside is different and the 200 CV lends itself to fitting much better in the 90 wheel bearing carrier...
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this is the 130mm tripod joint..
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Longitudinal
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:29 am

Post by Longitudinal »

SeStone wrote:I dunno how the engineering/forces work out, but I'd want some grade-A finest-of-the-fine washers under the bolts to distribute load...I'm with Matt, those look way too thin.

Sam


Sam, the GC camber plates are held together by four 5/16" bolts and can be used with the plates on top of the weld plate, which means the bolts are being stretched by the weight of the car. Even in this environment, I have no fear of breaking bolts. Four 5/16 bolts are a lot stronger then you might think. I am sure you could suspend your car from just one, and we're talking four at each corner.
nrvz

Post by nrvz »

Henka wrote:People have tried what you are attempting now before and in some cases they ain't trying anything ever again due to snapped rod ends....


second that!

by the way what height is your wheel+tire?
I can't make lower my car because of 640mm tire height, if I make low enough for me, then when i drive driveshaft hits body :(
SeStone

Post by SeStone »

Jonathan wrote:
SeStone wrote:I dunno how the engineering/forces work out, but I'd want some grade-A finest-of-the-fine washers under the bolts to distribute load...I'm with Matt, those look way too thin.

Sam


Sam, the GC camber plates are held together by four 5/16" bolts and can be used with the plates on top of the weld plate, which means the bolts are being stretched by the weight of the car. Even in this environment, I have no fear of breaking bolts. Four 5/16 bolts are a lot stronger then you might think. I am sure you could suspend your car from just one, and we're talking four at each corner.


I'm talking about the 1/16" strip of metal between the bolt slot and the bearing slot. While there's a lot of stuff there that would prevent failure (the bearing plate itself is constrained in a way that it can't really shear one way or another)...that strip of metal just seems way too thin to be used anywhere.

Sam
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

nrvz wrote:
Henka wrote:People have tried what you are attempting now before and in some cases they ain't trying anything ever again due to snapped rod ends....


second that!

by the way what height is your wheel+tire?
I can't make lower my car because of 640mm tire height, if I make low enough for me, then when i drive driveshaft hits body :(




my tires are 622mm approximately... but these are street tires. i don't know if they are much different than your race tires. also, have you lowered the engine and transmission?mine are going down 1".. or 25mm. i'm also not going as low as you, it's just not possible to keep a reasonable turning radius within my stock fenders.





OK, on the thin metal strip... it's purely just for keeping the head of the bolt on a level surface.... there will be washers, yes. but the main load bearing support is through the outer areas of the alu. block to the steel plate... period. i could cut those thin metal strips out and you wouldn't know any better, but then someone else would say "hey, shouldn't those bolt heads have some sort of support on the inside so they aren't holding torque on only one side of the head?"
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

annnd a control arm :)

my dilemma.... i needed a pivot point at the outer end of the control arm so that when i adjust them it can move freely and not bind... which it would do with the arms point outward at an angle. soooo this is what i came up with.

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the notch is to clear the ball joint casting and still allow movement of the ball joint..
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one half completed
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the idea here is the outer bolt is the main pivot, the second sits in a sideways slotted hole to allow the arm to open and close essentially... and then both lock the arm together. just trust me, it works :D

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Longitudinal
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:29 am

Post by Longitudinal »

I assume the tapered bits at the inner ends have threads for the Heim? Are these available from Summit, Jeg's, etc? I'll probably be building my own control arms pretty soon.

The inner Heims have much bigger holes than the 10mm bolts that hold the control arms to the stock subframe. Are you over-drilling the holes in the subframe to match the Heims, or are you going to use a collar to center the Heim on the 10mm bolt for the control arm? Or, third option, are you also building a front subframe and using big bolts all around?

I am confident that I can build a strong control arm, but a 10mm Heim joint just looks like a weak link to me.
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

yes, the tapered bit has threads... 3/4"-16. and the holes are 5/8", which is a tight 16mm bolt shank. i got them off ebay.. chromoly rod ends rated to 42K lbs for like $21ea. they had economy rods for about half the price.


i guess you missed the part where i said i was building new subframes :P i have parts for the front one cut up now, and i'll likely get to welding them tomorrow and maybe a second control arm for the front... the rear one is about 50% done already and there's some pics of it a page or two back.
yodasfro

Post by yodasfro »

Nice work D your welds are getting better. 8)
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

oy! today was horrifically busy here at the shop, but i got to spend all ... from 4-9 working on the front suspension some more.. specifically the subframe and control arm mounting... i'll let the pics do most of the explaining :)

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this is my inner control arm mounting setup.. i wanted to be able to shift them up or down easily for adjusting the car's roll center. i have 2" of upward movement from the stock mounting points.

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a little hard to tell, but there's definitely more castor now 8)
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the hub sits a full 1" inward now...
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yodasfro

Post by yodasfro »

Getting fancy 8)
KAPLOWW

Post by KAPLOWW »

Make me one too while you're at it.

seriously though, when all is said and done.

build yourself some jigs.

You wont regret it.
HT Motorsport
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am

Post by HT Motorsport »

he derek,

looking awesome as usual ;)

your progress is pissing me off though as it has been almost 3 months since I got to play with the v8, andy its gonna be at least another month :(.

Q: I presume the slotted inner mounts are temp. For setup only and that once you have the geometry right you will replace with a set of holes ?

Q2: rather than owing the stock ball joint I would reccommend using a spherical bearing, then make a spacer insert to up into the strut to drop the ball joint down by a couple of inches. This will give a much better control arm angle when the car is lowered. Check robs thread for details.

Keep doing my homework for me :)
Lt. Sarge

Post by Lt. Sarge »

It feels good to be productive huh? At least after all the hard work part is over and you get to enjoy the thing you were being productive on.
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

timmmy wrote:he derek,

looking awesome as usual ;)

your progress is pissing me off though as it has been almost 3 months since I got to play with the v8, andy its gonna be at least another month :(.

Q: I presume the slotted inner mounts are temp. For setup only and that once you have the geometry right you will replace with a set of holes ?

Q2: rather than owing the stock ball joint I would reccommend using a spherical bearing, then make a spacer insert to up into the strut to drop the ball joint down by a couple of inches. This will give a much better control arm angle when the car is lowered. Check robs thread for details.

Keep doing my homework for me :)



the inner mounts are just tack welded for the time being until i get some better mounting plates to hold them in place, at least in my structural mindset. once i get an idea of how well i like my current ideal setup.. if i somehow manage to nail the geometry out of the box, i'll probably get some eccentric bolts and sleeves for inside the rod end(i'm using huge 5/8" bolts right now), then weld some plates top and bottom of the slotted hole so there's some adjustment left, but i shouldn't need the whole two inches. who knows, maybe i'll build a new subframe at that time. i'd love to have one out of roundstock, but this is quick and easy to work with.

Q-#2. i don't need to move the ball joint down anymore :) i've got a lot of play right now with the inner points for changing the roll center, plus, with the outer ball joint slot being mounted at 13 degrees the wrong way, the longer the stud/shaft sticking out of it, the farther out the rotor has to sit... and i don't like that for tire/caliper clearance reasons.

i'd really love to make my own spindles some day using using later 4 bolt A6 wheel bearings like this...

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and yes, it feels good to be productive. a project like this is something that takes a lot of time finding the right parts and what's gonna work, this and that.... and is why there was such a long time of nothing happening to the car. i can't wait!! to get a drive in this thing. i'm really excited every time i think about it having 285's all around, and driving it should be exciting as well. i also really do enjoy the build, figuring things out..... not much more exciting than finding a solution for something that seems impossible 8)
PxTx

Post by PxTx »

The Fonz defends his title! 8)
the_natrix

Post by the_natrix »

Wait wait wait

what the hell is that?

im sorry, but a friend of mine pointed it out, and for his safety he will remain anoymous.
but that said im absolutely not afraid of derek kahn and his reign of terror.

first off, what the hell is that rusted out brake booster doing on there?!?!?!
derek *in a whiny tone* "we dont get rust in california"
derek *in a whiny tone* "we dont get rust in oregon"
nate imititating derek "memmememememememem me."

I SEE RUST!!!!! if you dont get it, why is it there??? hmmm?!?!?!

and those freshly painted strut housings?!? look at the bottom of those too... more RUST!!!! i dunno about what you think, but apparently derek has been slacking off alot as of late.

and that subframe... it already has rust and its supposed to be a "new" peice?!?! my god.., im just speachless now..... "new" apparently must mean it has or comes with rust!

and you need a new boot on your slave cylinder!!! i can spot that a mile away!

sigh... this thread is too depressing.... its clear that derek is now consumed in his quest for power that he is slacking off and only hurting the people that truely care for him.... i cant watch this spiral into madness any more....
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

take a breath nate....

that booster is a temp. as the original's rod got bent in the accident...
the rust is all superficial, i promise ;)
the struts haven't been painted... they are original paint bro ;)
and we do get surface/flash rust on bare metal, just not the absolute rot/death/crust everything/suicidal rust you get in like 45 minutes of exposure to the elements.

everything will get cleaned and painted to get it prim and proper


just STOP FREAKING OUT *hands nate a paper bag* :P your "friend" is you... you're just making up stuff again because we haven't talked in a week... you're worse than a girl!
WAUG0806

Post by WAUG0806 »

timmmy wrote:he derek,

looking awesome as usual ;)

your progress is pissing me off .....................................Keep doing my homework for me :)


:stupid:

Those welds look ab fab 8) Inspiring work for sure!
Evil Wagon

Post by Evil Wagon »

nice work
90_Koop

Post by 90_Koop »

At the risk of feeding your ego even more. Yes, I'm jealous too!
Damn it! Nice Work Derek! :-D
mojackson2390

Post by mojackson2390 »

nice work...i can honestly say that i think you work to and for perfection haha
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audifreakjim
Posts: 2142
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:00 pm

Post by audifreakjim »

word
WAUG0806

Post by WAUG0806 »

D3R3K you deserve every puff of smoke that's blown up your skirt here at MG! :bump:
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

thanks guys... i got my new struts... double adjust koni's. i'll have some pic updates here in the next couple days when progress resumes (hopefully!)
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