The Project Pad

40v4kq wrote:This thread has a major lack of videos.

I will this weekend. Took the thing up to about 110 or so today. Wow is all I gotta say. Hit it faster than the truck. The tall 5th gear is definitly not good for high speed pulls unless you can shift into it at about 4k. Needless to say, I backed off of it at that point.

AngryTaco wrote:Just curious but does anyone have/had overheating issues at all with a setup like mine?

Mine started to run hot on the track at the time. But I did not have all of the proper ducting installed. That would be the only thing that will cause problems aside from a junk rad. Just make sure the air is directed into the rad and you should be good.

The fastest I ever had mine was 140 with the stock trans. That was the absolute limit of the gearing to engine ratio. Then I put in the 200 trans and never got a chance to try again.

My MC motor ran cooler than the JT. I suspect this was due to some of the coolant passages on the JT being partially gummed up. Never had an overheating issue. Car didnt have any radiator shrouds either, which was silly. Just bleed the system properly, ensure the fan comes on at the right temp and you are good to go. I never did plump the afterrun pump, either. Just let it cool down/idle for a bit after boosting

scubadave wrote:The fastest I ever had mine was 140 with the stock trans. That was the absolute limit of the gearing to engine ratio. Then I put in the 200 trans and never got a chance to try again.

Wow. What amount of boost were you running? How long of a stretch? It seemed the acceleration really started to slow down in 4th at about 100. Im guessing its time to relay the fuel pump cause I think I started runnin out of fuel. But it got there damn quick. Guess I gots more tuning to do. Im thinking I was doing 115-120 due to the larger tire size but not 100% sure. Speedometer said 110. Then I realized the car is still unproven lol. Definitly out of my system for a while.

Just realized I started this damn thing 6-months ago. Way too long in my eyes. Today was worth it for sure. Took it on perhaps a 10-15mile round trip. Handling is way better over stock although Im a little disapointed in the front sway bar. I gotta take it around the lake road to see how it feels. Once I do that, Im going to swap in the quattro bar to the front and see how I like that combo. The new brakes are absolutely incredible. Locked up a couple times when not paying attention. I am going to go to a bigger master though. The smaller 4kq brake master is definitly too small with the g60s

I wonder if the idle issue might have to do with the cam timing being off. I dont know what lift the stock mc1 cams duration is measured at but it is like 221°. And the lift is like 0.41 inches, and the lsa is like 110°. So your cam doesnt sound like one that is radical enough to affect the idle quality that much. I had what I think was a 272 in mine for a while. The idle was kind of rough but it was at the stock 720rpm. Gas mileage also went to shit. Maybe you should get an adjustable cam pulley and play around with it some. Btw your car sounds like a blast. Nice work!

Take it easy on the speed for sure. Wait till you give it some break in time and make sure you go over every nut and bolt to make sure its all tight before you attemp any land speeed records. I've been to 120-125 and that scares me to think of it because that was all before I had my caliper and wheel come loose on separate occasions. I'm glad those things didnt come loose when i was going that fast.

my setup was somewhat primitive and was getting more boost by a resistor mod and cranking down the wastegate adjuster. so at speed the rpm's were seriously high and I was fighting compressor surge like a mofo trying to keep the ecu out of overboost fuel cut. It was around 15-16ish lbs. The issues with CIS and trying to get all the power out of your setup is just not worth the effort. The system just has too many faults that cannot be overcome to bring the system up to the level its really capable of running at, even with it being chipped. If I were to do another 20 valve, EFI would be the first thing it got. dont get me wrong, the current setup will be a blast. just not what it could be capable of.

Thanks Jeff! It does feel like the cam needs to be advanced 1-2 degrees. The power seems to really kick in around 3500, which is great for a hot street car imo. I wouldnt mind sacrificing a tiny bit of top end power for more drivability since I am DDing this. Off-boost cruising could use a little bit of help but not much. It runs nice at 70mph with the tall 5th. The pedal just feels weird to me cause Im used to barely touching the throttle in my truck to cruise where as I need about 15-20% throttle when cruising at 70. Guess i just gotta get used to it. 70 @ 2900 rpm is much nicer than 3400

scubadave wrote:my setup was somewhat primitive and was getting more boost by a resistor mod and cranking down the wastegate adjuster. so at speed the rpm's were seriously high and I was fighting compressor surge like a mofo trying to keep the ecu out of overboost fuel cut. It was around 15-16ish lbs. The issues with CIS and trying to get all the power out of your setup is just not worth the effort. The system just has too many faults that cannot be overcome to bring the system up to the level its really capable of running at, even with it being chipped. If I were to do another 20 valve, EFI would be the first thing it got. dont get me wrong, the current setup will be a blast. just not what it could be capable of.

In time it will get efi. As for now, Im broke and I want to park my damn truck. Winter is here so I need to get this thing running 100% before snowfall. Truck needs a full detail job and the front suspension needs rebuilt. That and I want to get my damn headers installed!!!

Congrats Taco, nice job. Car looks great with white Fuchs, I have Fuchs on mine too and love em.

My CIS MC2 sounds like it behaves a bit different then yours, probably mainly due to the cam. I have good power pretty much right off idle, boost there instantly. 75MPH I am literally barely touching the gas, just a little throttle and boost is right there. Pulls hard to 110 but runs out of breath hard @ 6000 RPM (never had it over 110 since no matter what I do it shakes/vibrates a bit over 90). Car is all about 2-6K RPM, very useful power band for DD duties and RX (it is an amzing RX'r), seemed to be a pretty good hill climb car for what it is, but only did one event so far on a very twisty hill in rain.

These things loves W/M. Relaying FP, W/B monitoring and DV also a must for these IMO. I have been making some CIS adjustments (read everything from Natrix/TOX) and it is running very strong, can't believe how lean I was before installing the W/B and making some adjustments.

I run the coolest Tstat I could find (I think 80C, forget now) and have a new rad with all ducting in place, stays at like 190F maybe 200F on a warm day beating on it. Prior to that it ran a bit warm.

Why do you say the master cyl is not big enough for the G60's? Mine seem OK, just curious what you noticed.

Good luck with it, I hope you take it to the strip. I'd like to take mine just for curiosity's sake.

I'm thinking I have to use more pedal right now due to the bpv not being plumbed back into the pre-turbo intake. I can feel air being pushed out and when not in boost, it feels super rich which would make sense because more air is being sucked through the metering plate vs the actual amount the engine is using. I'm waiting on my stuff to get welded up so I can have a properly plumbed system. In the mean time, I've been wiring up my HIDs, and cleaning up everything. Should have the rear bumper on this weekend. I might have the front back on if the brackets show up from my2000apb

Hey guys, how much vacuum are you pulling when cruising. Im pulling about 10" at about 50-60mph and very little vacuum at 70 unless I modulate the pedal a little, then I can get it up to about 12". If I downshift and let off the gas, vacuum will go way up. Still only pulling like 11" at idle at like 1100rpm. It does, however build boost very quickly from a roll without downshifting

I saw the clarification on the other thread. Still confused as to why the WRX beat you, it doesnt make sense with what everyone was sayin. Maybe try adjusting the cam and see what that does to your vacuum. Just an FYI, i have seen vacuum brake boosters leak and cause low vacuum and lean issues. Try pinching the vac line that goes to the brake booster and see if your vacuum picks up.

AngryTaco wrote:HOLY fiddle sticking SHIT. HOLY. fiddle sticking. SHIT.  THIS THING IS fiddle sticking FAST!!!!!!  I got it running right!!!

This thing blows my truck out of the water!!!!! And thats with the adjustment backed all the way off the wastegate!!!!

Holy freaking poop on a stick!!!! Tonight made it all worth it!!!!

Guess I shoudve wired the alternator up from the beginning. :slap:

What happened?

40v4kq wrote:I saw the clarification on the other thread. Still confused as to why the WRX beat you, it doesnt make sense with what everyone was sayin. Maybe try adjusting the cam and see what that does to your vacuum. Just an FYI, i have seen vacuum brake boosters leak and cause low vacuum and lean issues. Try pinching the vac line that goes to the brake booster and see if your vacuum picks up.

Will do. Yeah I was 100% sure I was going to walk it. In its current setup, it is faster than the truck. But if this thing hauls ass as a 14 second car, then I have no idea what itll feel like as a 13 second car. Yay more diagnosis

My MC2 has 17 to 18 inches at idle at 720rpm. Are you sure the isv is working? It should idle at like 800 rpm. When adjusting CO did you adjust the throttle body screw so you have 430 ma isv current?

GTJeff wrote:My MC2 has 17 to 18 inches at idle at 720rpm. Are you sure the isv is working? It should idle at like 800 rpm. When adjusting CO did you adjust the throttle body screw so you have 430 ma isv current?

I'm gonna recheck the ISV tonight or tomorrow when I get time. I hear it working, but I'm wondering if I would be better served eliminating it all together and use the throttle plate to control idle like a carb. Idle does suck. The cam rocks on the mid and top range, but if it starts causing piss poor fuel mileage and makes cruising harsh, I'm gonna go find myself an MC2 cam

mah special Ben Swann chip. Oldsklaudidub (Corey) has informed me that this here be a special non-production prototype of the 2+ Bar "superchip". Apparently it's a little hotter than the production one.

Just a quick FYI, the late NG cam is the same as the mc2 cam. Well, except the ng cam has the vac. Pump lobe.im going to use the cam from my old ng in my mc build. I just wish I could find an adjustable cam gear, cheap.

mah special Ben Swann chip. Oldsklaudidub (Corey) has informed me that this here be a special non-production prototype of the 2+ Bar "superchip". Apparently it's a little hotter than the production one.

http://motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6& ... ow#p557436

see page 18, may be something to think about.......

I still would suggest (again) to get the CEL hooked up, working, and codes checked

Can be super helpful (and safe!).

AudiSport4000 wrote:I still would suggest (again) to get the CEL hooked up, working, and codes checked

Can be super helpful (and safe!).

I will this weekend! I promise :slap:

Interesting about that chip. I wonder if that has anything to do with the lack of power. I'll see what happens after I draw codes. I do notice that cam likes to kick in around 3500ish which would fit the bill for that chip

Ok guys. I tested the ISV tonight. Here is what is going on. With the terminal disconnected, I get 110ma from the connector to ground. When I hook the valve up in series I get 0-5ma. Bad ISV?

If I jump the connector, I get about 335ma

When running I get approx 200ma

On the ISV, I get 25 ohms between pins 1 and 3. Between pins 1-2 and 2-3, approx 13-15 ohms