The Project Pad

quattro87 wrote:I'd be more concerned as to why it even runs with the MM hose disconnected. If no air is lifting the metering plate, then no fuel ought to be able to get to the injectors. It sounds to me like the fuel distributor has a problem and is letting fuel into the engine even with the plate all the way down. Do you have the plate manually picked up while the engine is running with the MM hose off?

No, I do not. :?

nm on restricted IC. I just realized that would create a high vacuum situation, not a low.

AngryTaco wrote:

Quatro16 wrote:There's a place in dalton gardens that can rebuild injectors and check spray patterns. I think it's like 90$ for five iirc. The company is "MR. Injector" phone# 762 3450.
Btw cool to see your project's coming together, are you going to try and make the autox on the 30th?

Who knows. At the rate this thing is now coming together, I have no idea what to expect anymore. Where is autox? Is that the one in Deer Park or w/e

Sorry to see you're having so much trouble with the vac. Its amazing how much the little stuff can bog down a project, but that just makes it all the better when you find out what it is. Keep at it...
Yeah they usually run the autox at the deer park airport but since its the finals they rent out the Spokane county road course for the weekend. It's actually a pretty nice setup as far as autox events go. I setup a g2g thread, so hopefully there'll be some interest from other members as well.

Any more luck with it?

OK FINALLY GETTING SOMEWHERE!!!

Turns out the green connector on the ffv was not on all the way. Plugged it in securely and it seemed to run better immediately. The misfire has all but dissapeared. There is still a very small misfire, but the car runs so much better. It pulls harder now when in boost. I think Im going to actually drive it around tomorrow

Good Job! Have fun with it!

Just got my 110a alternator installed.

It was amazingly simple too. I simply put the tightening bracket on the 13mm oil pump housing bolt and everything lined up perfect

WOOOOT

Double post

Im finding "real" CIS tuning to be quite simple. You just need a dwell meter and a 3mm allen

Quatro16 wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:

Quatro16 wrote:There's a place in dalton gardens that can rebuild injectors and check spray patterns. I think it's like 90$ for five iirc. The company is "MR. Injector" phone# 762 3450.
Btw cool to see your project's coming together, are you going to try and make the autox on the 30th?

Who knows. At the rate this thing is now coming together, I have no idea what to expect anymore. Where is autox? Is that the one in Deer Park or w/e

Sorry to see you're having so much trouble with the vac. Its amazing how much the little stuff can bog down a project, but that just makes it all the better when you find out what it is. Keep at it...
Yeah they usually run the autox at the deer park airport but since its the finals they rent out the Spokane county road course for the weekend. It's actually a pretty nice setup as far as autox events go. I setup a g2g thread, so hopefully there'll be some interest from other members as well.

Would this be more of a go and watch, or would I actually be able to drive the course?

[/quote] Would this be more of a go and watch, or would I actually be able to drive the course? [/quote]
It's all about driving, they have groups so one group runs while the other is on cone duty and vice versa so there is some standing involved but you do get to drive quite a bit. Check out the get together thread there's a link to the clubs site on there with more info.

Will do that.


Ok Update. Car runs really well. Its idling at about 900-1000 now, but Im attributing that to the bigger cam. However, it is kinda a dog out if the hole. Im guessing this is due to the low CR. When the turbo kicks in, Im still getting misfire, not bad, but enough to slow it down when I hit 3rd. I know there is plenty of power Im not feeling. Ive checked the WOT switch, all spark plug wires, rotor, coil, and I did the CO adjustment per SJM instructions. My average duty cycle is about 45% which is in spec. Little richer over factory but not much. Anyone have ideas?

Im hooking the CEL light up tomorrow so I will pull codes.

Once we hear about the codez we will know more

Well bad news. Transmission is dead. Went to take another drive in it this morning, backed it up fine, and next thing you know, its grinding and chattering like a mofo. I can start the car in gear, change gears while running no clutch. If I engage the clutch, the noise goes away. Car is fiddle sticking dead. Great

Im suspecting I lost the front dif. If I put it in gear, the speedometer will move, but the car will not

Make sure an axle didn't break/come loose or that the driveshaft didnt come loose

I hope you didn't loose the trans. That would suck after all this work.

Omg good news. I jumped to conclusions to quick. The front passenger inner cv exploded. Fixing that right now. Good thing I have an extra 100mm joint from the old fromt axles

Sweet. Glad it wasn't the trans. Its always nice to have spare parts around.

Too much boost lol

Haha that happened to another member a bit ago and was hoping it was the same. Glad i was right

HOLY fiddle sticking SHIT. HOLY. fiddle sticking. SHIT.  THIS THING IS fiddle sticking FAST!!!!!!  I got it running right!!!

This thing blows my truck out of the water!!!!! And thats with the adjustment backed all the way off the wastegate!!!!

Holy freaking poop on a stick!!!! Tonight made it all worth it!!!!

Guess I shoudve wired the alternator up from the beginning. :slap:

Turns out. Low voltage to a fuel pump will make it a bit lean.
Nice!!! Super glad it was the CV!!!

Gotten a boost gauge hooked up yet? CODES??

Nice work!

WOOT! Congrats man! I can't wait to see it in person one of these days!