The Project Pad

Popped out the Black Spring... placed the smallest/softest spring which happens to be GREEN...

Holds 22psi... without the overboost clutch can handle it ALL now at WOT...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D5tZ0qlA5k[/youtube]

Next up... More Fuel Fine Tuning on Spring...

22 on spring only sounds pretty good for your setup. now get that clutch sorted out, and start adding boost back in!

Are you in Andover today? Day Off? Rockport?... Text me...

Yep, what Jim said. 24psi springs work well when you are trying to hold 38psi of boost pressure. I generally use the 60% of desired boost level approach when choosing a spring

Sounds like I need no N75 for my plain 93Pump tune... Which is fine, I'll work on the fuel map now with this bigger turbo on spring, and I'll plug it in when I'm ready to add Meth to the mix...

mushasho wrote:Sounds like I need no N75 for my plain 93Pump tune... Which is fine, I'll work on the fuel map now with this bigger turbo on spring, and I'll plug it in when I'm ready to add Meth to the mix...

Sound plan but the VEMS PID Boost Control is worthwhile even if you don't want more than your current PSI since it allows you to control the profile of boost delivery.

Mcstiff wrote:

mushasho wrote:Sounds like I need no N75 for my plain 93Pump tune... Which is fine, I'll work on the fuel map now with this bigger turbo on spring, and I'll plug it in when I'm ready to add Meth to the mix...

Sound plan but the VEMS PID Boost Control is worthwhile even if you don't want more than your current PSI since it allows you to control the profile of boost delivery.

I'm under the impression that those features are rendered useless will the gate is closed shut? Please explain...
I do wish I had an even softer spring though...

Mcstiff wrote:

mushasho wrote:Sounds like I need no N75 for my plain 93Pump tune... Which is fine, I'll work on the fuel map now with this bigger turbo on spring, and I'll plug it in when I'm ready to add Meth to the mix...

Sound plan but the VEMS PID Boost Control is worthwhile even if you don't want more than your current PSI since it allows you to control the profile of boost delivery.

sounds like preventing drive line damage

Even though you are making 22psi the gate starts to open earlier, progressively. With boost control, depending on signal line routing, you can clamp the valve closed longer which maximizes response.

This is a really bad video but you can see the progressive movement fairly well:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xS4iEMUtXg[/youtube]

FRCFD5 wrote:sounds like preventing drive line damage

Driveline damage lol. I guess this is why every car with electronic boost control is puking diffs and stripping gears! We are not talking about instant torque just taking control over what the WG is doing. We are talking about VEMS so you control the targets based on RPM, TPS, MAP, and gear (if you have the correct sensor).

Boost Control Basics for VEMS 1.2.9+

mushasho wrote:Are you in Andover today? Day Off? Rockport?... Text me...

Shit sorry man just saw this, in fact i rolled to Ando and to my Bimshop to rap about ordering lotsa tasty stuff for my manny swap. Woulda been fun to connect. Will be around next week as they tear into it...

Hank wrote:What does it do without the gate only connected to the intake manifold without a valve inbetween?
Hank

loxxrider wrote:So have you tried it with the wastegate hooked up like Hank said? Vac line right from a vac/boost source to the bottom of the wastegate.

These 2 guys... quietly respond with the 2 main hints... In other words the plumbing to my N75 was wrong, duurrr user error on my part...

To debunk all the theories, which held true with my improper routing, weren't once I re-configured the hoses to the appropriate positions, guess what happened when I ran it with the N75 unplugged and the 4psi spring I had last put in?... It held +/-4psi as intended... So I decided to just plug in the connector to the N75 and raise it up in VEMS...

Fuel Tuning has commenced in this current setup but with the thought of putting those additional spring back on as it did spool a bit snappier with those in there...

"from turbo coldside" was what I thought was the vent/bleed portion...

EdiGreg wrote:I have only one spring in my gate, not sure of the color but it's one of the larger diameter ones, I'm guessing the black one. That gets me 25-28psi spring pressure depending on gear. I'd prefer less, I'll have to see if they supplied anything softer with the gate.

You must have the elusive single 2bar spring or something of that nature... I'd suggest double checking that n75 routing if it's not that stiff a spring...

PRY4SNO wrote:I would have totally relied on a supplied mfr. chart. What's the best way for the n00bs among us (read: me) to know/figure out the right spring then, install and monitor via gauge? Get some weights and measure the spring constant? lol

You are not alone...

Hank and Chris were telling you to directly connect manifold pressure to the wastegate to determine the MINIMUM boost that a spring will provide. This provides the maximum amount of manifold pressure to the wastegate, which is equivalent to 0% WGFV DC.

Everything said above is true, not theories or "myths" - If you disconnect the MAP line from the wastegate you will see the same behavior, that of true spring pressure.

EDIGREG wrote:Hank and Chris were telling you to directly connect manifold pressure to the wastegate to determine the MINIMUM boost that a spring will provide. This provides the maximum amount of manifold pressure to the wastegate, which is equivalent to 0% WGFV DC.

Everything said above is true, not theories or "myths" - If you disconnect the MAP line from the wastegate you will see the same behavior, that of true spring pressure.

Minimum boost is effectively what I was looking for...
I said "myth" debunked in a way" .... "myth"-being my issue of hi boost wasn't related to spring choice...
"in a way" you being 100% right on how I was achieving this pressure the way I was incorrectly connected...

But so I'm clear, are you at mid 20's on spring without that lower port connected? Sounds like you might have that green spring installed. I feel as if I've lost a bit of spool after a connecting that lower port and raising boost in VEMS. I'm tempted to throw those other 2 springs back on.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Just read this start to finish.

Nice one OB.

Makes me rethink my goals for my car.

6 Speed Allroad
Franken Turbo's
60lb Dekas
22psi
2.5" DP
Catless
Stock IC
Estimated 365-380whp

You can see his car "dip" when we got on it... you'll see my hood jump up in response(2nd, 3rd and 4th)... Not doing bad for a base map and spring pressure
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPToYqqEy70[/youtube]

Looks ta me like ya boxed him straight in traffic when he's siggin' for the lane then braggin' about yer kill story bezcuz he didn't cut you off? Some kinda bud you are. ;^P

I know I know... It was a bit of a force move, but he was still ahead and could've done his lane change before I did... I'll get a cleaner run soon enough as this was pretty spur of the moment... He did however say he was in it 100% before entering the freeway...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Coincidence?
$199 Zeitronix

$225


Item #4 New Style Flex fuel sensor GM 13577394 or 13577379 (not sure if these output Freq or Voltage) For GM 3.6 engine



$66 bucks
Gm Parts Direct and search part #13577394

Wanted to know if any have checked out the new ID1300 injectors?...

"The ID1300 was designed with alternative fuels in mind, and is the only performance injector available with all stainless internals. It is compatible with all known fuels, and will stand up to the corrosive nature of alcohol better than any injector on the market."



are they worth the $975.00 price tag over the tried and tested ev14 Bosch?

mushasho wrote:Wanted to know if any have checked out the new ID1300 injectors?...

"The ID1300 was designed with alternative fuels in mind, and is the only performance injector available with all stainless internals. It is compatible with all known fuels, and will stand up to the corrosive nature of alcohol better than any injector on the market."



are they worth the $975.00 price tag over the tried and tested ev14 Bosch?

They are bosch as well...

They certainly aren't worth tthe price, but. Sure they are nice. Let me see if my buddy can get the same things for MUCH cheaper.

On the regular ev14s, you can still run alcohol, you just need to run gas though them if the car is going to sit at all.

I remember a few years back reading on some 1600cc injector that was problematic... Was that an ev14 based model... I see some 1700cc Bosch injectors popping up as well as a viable choice...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/230695412927?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1



Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I just talked to my buddy for about an hour and got the full scoop. He owns http://www.fuelinjectordevelopment.com/

Some things to note:

-He can get you their 1200's (equivalent to FIC 1100s or ID 1000s) for about $500 for a set of 5. That is better value than you can get anywhere else for the same exact injector. I can fill you in on details via PM if you are interested.

-The internals of the FIC1100s, the ID1000s, and the FID1200s (and many others out there) are stainless steel already... I don't know of any problems with E85 on any of those injectors.

-The problems with swelling were isolated to the old 1600 cc injectors. You don't have to worry about anything else to my or the owners of FIC or FID knowledge from what I've heard from both of them.

You've got PM... Unless you can somehow publicly let me know how much of a value there is going with those mentioned shops as opposed to those 1700cc straight Bosch units... Just noticed 034 carries them to albeit at a mark up but those can be had at the $110 mark... Always wondered if a tweaked injector is always better than a straight unaltered one...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

mushasho wrote:You've got PM... Unless you can somehow publicly let me know how much of a value there is going with those mentioned shops as opposed to those 1700cc straight Bosch units... Just noticed 034 carries them to albeit at a mark up but those can be had at the $110 mark... Always wondered if a tweaked injector is always better than a straight unaltered one...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Well... I feel like $45 cheaper per injector is pretty good value. Modified vs. non-modified means nothing as long as they are flow matched (especially dynamically, and the ones I'm offering you are). They do start out as Bosch Motorsports injectors made for Audis race cars by the way.

You're getting 1200cc instead of 1700, but you won't need any more than that on your setup. FYI, they can easily be turned up to 15-1600cc's with higher base pressure if desired.

$110 is a good price if you can get them for that. Still, there is some room to save on the 1200s. PM me if you're interested.