The Project Pad

K update. Turns out 2 of the wgfv lines were reversed. Turns out I had the bottom
Connection going to the igloo and the top going to the intake manifold. That should be reversed

Is your wastegate diaphragm in good shape? How about the bottom hose on the wastegate? It should connect to a metal pipe that is connected to the chamber on the intake manifold that goes to the idle stabilizer valve. This chamber bypasses the throttle body.

Also, make sure your boost signal hose to the ecu is connected to the intake manifold and not upstream of it or on the intake manifold chamber that goes to the idle stabilizer valve. Make sure your boost gauge is plumbed the same way.

The 1.8 bar spring would not be your problem unless you have a stock chip.

That chip should control boost to 1.95 bar and the fuel cutout should be a little bit above 2.2 bar. If the plumbing doesn't fix it then Just let Ben know, he will probably just send you another chip. Ben is a good guy, I had a different problem with mine and he hooked me up right away.

Jeff

Thanks jeff. Ill report my findings when I get home today. I know I have a couple lines reversed on the wgfv so im fixing that too

Also, I'm using a BPV off of a 20vt. Which end goes where??? Does the top port get plumbed into the intake manifold?

Thanks. Now 1 more question on that. Do I plumb the excess air AFTER the CIS metering plate? Or do I need to tap it into the airbox before the plate? I was just going to plumb it into the 1/2" (or w/e size it is) on the side of the igloo

The discharge from the bypass valve should be connected in between the metering plate and the turbo. Preferably as far from the metering plate as possible in order to prevent any disturbance to it.

Cool. Well it's going into the side of the igloo for now. Eventually I will weld a 1" outlet on the URq intake elbow (steel)

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=45579"%20onclick="window.open(this.href);return%20false;

Maybe just try it as a BOV (discharge to atmosphere) and see how it works....

I believe the only reason you'd get a hard cut like that is from overboost. And if you're only hitting 1.5 bar that sounds like you're overboosting a stock ecu.

EDIT: Oh we're on a new page now. Jeeze.

pilihp2 wrote:I believe the only reason you'd get a hard cut like that is from overboost. And if you're only hitting 1.5 bar that sounds like you're overboosting a stock ecu.

EDIT: Oh we're on a new page now. Jeeze.

It just seems weird that its hitting 6psi, or so I guess, and cutting out. I havent hooked up the boost gauge yet but I can tell it aint hitting 17 or so.

I will say that even with a slight miss, and 6 w/e psi, its as torquey as my truck which is saying something considering my truck has around 400 ft/lbs of torque. I cant imagine what this thing is going to do with 17-18psi and no miss

Sounds like something is awry in the ecu department.

Get that boost gauge on there and see what the boost actually is at and then go from there.

:stupid: ding

SOB!!! The bpv is shot. Anyone have a bpv or Bosch 710n!?!?

Damn, I just gave away a good 710n. Are you sure its bad?

Diaphragm is dead for sure

Picked up a 710N BPV from the local yard, lightly used, for $30. yay

K I discovered a local 4kq with an RS2 20vt. Why do I suddenly feel less endowed lmao

Neat find, but is it red with white wheels? if not, its not so cool. LOL
On a side note, did that valve fix your issues?

No it did not. I took 2 readings. The o2 when idling is reading .3v which I think means rich?

I then took a vacuum test. It reads 7" of vacuum! I should be pulling 14-17!!

Omg. Problems

If I spray a little carb cleaner around the intake, the vacuum picks up to about 10 and idles smoothes, but increases

Ive pretty much gone over everything in the intake and Im like 99% positive there isnt an intake leak with my setup.

Pretty sure there has to be, going off what you're saying.

Time to light up a cheap cigar and blow a few puffs in a vacuum line. If anything's going to find it, that will (engine off, of course).

-Rog

.3 is lean. You have a vac leak close to where you are spraying the carb cleaner. That explains why it smothes out and vac goes up. An AF ratio that is closer to stoich will make an engine produce more vacuum, hence why when you introduce more fuel and it goes form lean to slightly rich you see a rise in vac. You can try what rog suggested and see if that works. One thing that can also work is taking a peice of hose (fuel line, or similar in size) and hold one end to your ear and move the other end to various places where the leak may be. When you put the end over the leak you will hear it. Engine running ofcourse. Is it possible the vac leak is at an injector or injectors?