The Project Pad

EDIT 2: Link to the pin out (google doc) - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1EAq2GMQwo0KK60iOBuzPOnsba_uk2RoYP_sUQKbIOuQ/edit?usp=sharing

Swapped pins around last night. I'll get the details mapped out here and post them on a google doc.

I can't seem to get a trigger signal of any kind. On the G4(Crank Sensor) and G28(Speed(RPM) Sensor) I have the middle pins connected to the ecu pins 36-27 (G4) and 18-12 (G28) respectively. The other two pins I have connected to ground. The Red and Blue wires (that connect to pin 48 on the 3b harness) are plugged into 36-26.

EDIT: I'll be ground-testing pin 36-27 today (hopefully) at lunch to see if that will at least get me some trigger logs and go from there.

Below is a screenshot as well if that helps any.

On the engine block - I have one ground from the trans bolt to the firewall and added another using a snub mount bolt to the block and an engine bay bolt on the chassis side.

The weird thing here is that I'm not getting any signal, even if I plug in a loose G4 and touch it to metal while doing a trigger log I get nothing.

I really don't want to trailer this thing down to BBQ but will if I have to I have Mon-Thur of next week to figure this out. Marc has been a huge help, not to mention super patient with my noobness but the hard part is we are 2 time zones apart and I can't escape from work long enough to test and re-test during the day. If anyone is willing to maybe help with things (over the phone is great) in the evenings next week that would be super awesome!

My awesome Econoseal Pin job:



G4 pin situation:

figured out that I have a grounding issue (surprise!!) somewhere. Was able to pull pin 36-27 (primary trigger), check it for 2.41 volts and then do a trigger log. Had to tap it to ground on the footwell ground as none of my other loom grounds were doing the trick.

Next week I'll chase down where the grounding issue is with a jumper cable and the negative side of the battery.

Again I can't thank Marc enough for his patience and help with figuring this out. It keeps me motivated to continue on.

Wow, what a PITA.

Hope you get this sorted soon, thank god for the old school Audi community

FWIW, I get to learn from your struggles. Keep plugging away!

It has been a pain for sure. Most of this could have been avoided had I bench tested the harness prior to feeding it through. mainly making sure I had good continuity through the grounds so I knew the harness was good to go.

Monday evening I start again. Hopefully the issue with the ground can be sorted out and maybe get this thing running!

It's really good to hear you are learning from my mistakes. One of the main reasons I keep posting on here is so others can see what I do wrong (and sometimes right) and skip those issues during their builds

Keep up the good work….major wiring is not my forte either…I leave that to somebody who knows what they are doing.

Although I did wire up my Turbo Rabbit on MS back in 2003 or so….but I just ran the bare minimums.

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but I added some new lights.

Showed up at Dave's yesterday, opened my hood to find some fresh paint on the valve cover



Also did the following with the harness situation:

- Cleaned chassis ground points as they were resting on paint, not bare metal.
- Added a new ground from the snub mount bolt on the block to the passenger side chassis rail (metal, not paint).
- Added another ground from the passenger side of the trans to the same firewall ground point as the other ground I have on the driver's side of the trans.
- Clipped and added new ends to my loom grounds

Here's what I found:
- I can trip the crank trigger on the chassis ground point on the firewall
- I cannot get the trigger to trip from the loom ground
* I added another thicker wire to the loom ground and connected it at both end points (ecu side and intake manifold side) and still nothing
- ohmed out the ground wire with key off = 0.00
- ohmed out the ground wire with Key On = 0.06

Seems like I have a ground or power leak with key-on. Is that a good assumption?

If I have to I'll pull the harness and bring it to BBQ with me but would much rather drive it down!

Towed it home last night too:

Ground issues suck. I should have bench tested my harness too, it probably would have saved me an engine build and an ecu. Keep at'r, you'll get it.

Got it pretty well sorted out at BBQ. I'll put up some more details but essentially I had my power going to a location that didn't have power-on when cranking. There were a few other things but in the end I drove it to work this morning.

Seems to be running a bit rich so I sent some log files out and will get some updates to adjust things before turning up the boost

Feels damn good to have this thing running! So much frustration and satisfaction all bottled up over 3 days of little sleep.

I was exhausted from just watching you! It was good to hear it running on Sunday though. Did you take many pictures? You always have some nice ones.

Unfortunately I didn't really take any pics :( The car took up all of my energies this trip.

Since the swap happened I've had a bit of an issue with vacuum. Prior to going VEMS I had roughly 14 vacuum which seems low. Now with VEMS I have about 12.

Planning on going to a catch can situation ( I have two at home to choose from) but am a bit noob when it comes to what is needed/not needed when doing this.

I looked through a few different threads and found bits and pieces of info but nothing really the same as my situation. That being the case my plan is to document my situation the best I can to help others in the future.

If anyone has any suggestions/tips feel free to post up

So here's a little tid-bit of info. If you want the N75 to work properly. Hook up the signal pin ya dummy!

After getting the base tune pretty well dialed in from Marc, we tried to add boost. Nothing. Add more duty cycle. Nothing. Check the N75 situation: Make sure it has power and the signal goes into pin 36-17. Checked this morning and sure enough I had nothing plugged into pin 17. Ok, so where is that signal wire? Beep out from the N75 side to a few unconnected wires in my mess. Found it! Crimp that crimmity crimp pin, push it on through and

Boost!

Took the log from my drive to work, sent it over and shortly after had a new config for some fuel adjustment and moar boost.

Waiting for lunch time to load config and enjoi.

Boost!

I want a ride!

I'm not worthy of giving a ride to someone with over twice the HP of mine

so i may have a boost leak but not certain. i get a lot of drop off in 2nd and 3rd gear but it holds pretty well in 4th and 5th.

ill be bypassing the intercooler this evening and trying again to see if theres any difference.

link to video
http://youtu.be/fFKtt5IMfms

I don't think that's a boost leak....

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

Could it just be my vems config?

nsimps wrote:Could it just be my vems config?

its what k24 turbos do.

if you want to hold 20+psi to redline get a bigger turbo.

Marc wrote:

nsimps wrote:Could it just be my vems config?

its what k24 turbos do.

if you want to hold 20+psi to redline get a bigger turbo.

This^^^ K24's run out of steam on the top end and don't hold boost pressure

I thought that might be the case. I think my issue was that my sense of power had been tainted by the rides in Nate's and Jim's and Darin's cars

Need some help with a VEMS config.

For some reason I am now running rich but the only thing I changed was putting a BOV valve on and then taking it off because it fluttered instead of a clean pressure release. Will be checking sparks tonight to see if there's any issues there. Other than that nothing has changed.

Link to my thread in the Standalone section: http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1313

Log File: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9alxzuvkmvfwy2f/v3.3_u009145-2014.10.27-08.45.25.vemslog?dl=0

The two WOT pulls at the end are right on target lambda, where is your concern? All of the other areas with >10% TPS seem too short to really make any comment.

Thanks for taking a look!

my concern is that it is sputtering with wot. if things are looking good what could be causing the sputter? could a faulty blow off valve affected things?

New log files from this morning. Tried to get some longer >10 TPS durations and more WOT

>10% TPS
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i1zl3n5xvy00crh/v3.3_u009145-2014.10.28-08.21.18.vemslog?dl=0

WOT
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3rkd70iocdeybg/v3.3_u009145-2014.10.28-08.29.45.vemslog?dl=0


I'm still very new to this so any help will be appreciated!