The Project Pad

loxxrider wrote:Of course you still have to put a spacer in there to take up the remaining space!

Yes!

Juizer wrote:

Also put in a 3 spoke steering wheel from a 97 A4.

Does the B5 wheel fit to typ 44 hub as a "bolt on"? The splines are the same?
About to buy the same kind of wheel for my 200..
Cool build you have here.

I know for sure the 97 A4 wheel bolted directly on. Not sure about the s4. You just have to graft the turn signal cancelation rings if you want the turn signals to cancel automatically. That wasn't too hard though, just measure several times before cutting and epoxy in the two together.

Thanks.
Off to ebay..

Looks great Josh! Glad to see more progress

I sectioned/shortened the strut housing by 2 inches and also lowered the steering arm almost 2" to correct the angle of tie rod from arm to rack. I used 8" springs that are supposed to have 5" of travel. The adjustable race Konis' have 5inches of stroke as well. I just hope the car is not going to sit too low. I am hoping the 2Bennett Camber/Caster plastes give me enough adjustment.

That's the way to do it

It sits really low now. I need to put the V8 fenders on now.

Wow. Is that with the collars all the way down?

The collars are about 1/2 inch from being all the way down. I dont want to go any lower. I have to leave room for suspension compression. I only have about 3" of upward travel before the tire hits the upper body. I took out the plastic fender liners to check for clearance. The front rides unbelievable smooth with 8" coils. The steering arms are perfectly level/horizontal. The car is super responsive and predictable through the steering wheel. No delays or slop. Now I have to do the rear in a bad way. When I rip on it, the back dumps fast and the front comes up making it hard to keep from breaking loose the front two tires and spinning. Even with the H&R lowering springs in the back, now the car has a big rake. It looks like the ass end of the car is way up in the air.

Interesting - great to hear it rides well. Given your statement it sounds like you have ~2" of compressed travel at the current height? Any of the "pogo" effect?

Sorry for the questions but I'm very interested in making a competent suspension for the car and it seems you're well on your way. Yours looks similar to the Talladega 5000!

I would be thoroughly filled with extreme happiness if you recorded a few pulls in your car to share even if you do it with an actual potato. It is truly turning into a masterpiece.

themagellan wrote:I would be thoroughly filled with extreme happiness if you recorded a few pulls in your car to share even if you do it with an actual potato. It is truly turning into a masterpiece.

Second! In a big way!

Ok, I'll shoot a video with my GoPro when I get back home. I'm in Turkey right now and won't be back until about two more weeks.

I finally made it back home. Unfortunately I lost my GoPro somewhere between Ukraine and Turkey. I can borrow my brother n laws go pro and record a couple of rips. Since I lowered the car with the coilovers, it created a clearance problem with my 20 valve fenders so now is the time to start converting to the V8 fenders and bumpers. I started to lay it out today to see what it would look like. I am going to use the V8 fenders but keep the 200 headlights. So I have to section the front section of my 10valve fender to fill the gap where the headlight meets the fender. Then I also have to weld the lower rear portion of my fender to the V8 fender. The rest should be easy. I'm wondering if the car is going to be too low. I like that it rides good, no coil rubbing/binding, and is very responsive/tight and predictable.

What spring rates are you running for the coilovers and what shocks are you planning on using in the rear? Car is really coming together well!!

I started working on my rear coilover project and when I climbed under the car, I found that the rear diff is empty (all of the fluid is on the outside of the diff with dirt caked on), the rear diff bushing is missing, and the driveshaft carrier bearing is toast. I have no freaking clue how this thing put down 650+HP to the ground without the rear falling apart. Time to take care of it and do it up right. I also found the track arms bad, bushings bad, cv boots torn and slinging grease, and both parking brake cables seized. I have a lot of work ahead of me.

On a good note... I found the ultimate coilover setup for C3/Type44/S4. Lots of measuring and searching companies. $625. Double external adjustable and has tons of travel and doesn't bottom out on the shock body and the coils don't contact the CV axle. I had the car sitting so low, that the CV axles were coming in contact with the bottom of the body of the car. Obviously, I'm not going to run that low but there is tons of range of travel. 12" springs, both adjusters are at the bottom of the shock and easy to access when installed, American company and fully serviceable/rebuildable, readily available, not custom, and half the price of having Koni shorten and make double adjustable.

Not sure how long it's going to take to get this thing back together... If ever but going to go after it like the rest of my projects. I'm trying to get this thing to daily driver status within a month.

Qa1 FTW

That's craaaazy! Good to hear your diff is still in good shape. Most people raise an eyebrow when I mention how it's one of the only things I haven't/won't upgrade.

What company makes the coilovers? Are they compatible with the C4 chassis as well?

Yikes! Get after it! This thing really needs to be "done" so we can have vids looooots of vids

1 month?... The clock starts NOW!!!

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2.5TYPE44 wrote:I sectioned/shortened the strut housing by 2 inches and also lowered the steering arm almost 2" to correct the angle of tie rod from arm to rack. I used 8" springs that are supposed to have 5" of travel. The adjustable race Konis' have 5inches of stroke as well. I just hope the car is not going to sit too low. I am hoping the 2Bennett Camber/Caster plastes give me enough adjustment.

from what car shock absorbers short?

"They are [Koni] 8610 1436RACE"

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mushasho wrote:"They are [Koni] 8610 1436RACE"

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Thanks

Made some progress with engine degreaser, brake cleaner, a trip to the car wash, and some paint. I hate working on greasy cars. Now I can start working on replacing the seals on the diff, rebuild the driveshaft, and CV Axles.

I ordered 17 bushings and only needed 13 bushings for this damn rear end. that is four short of what most cars have. My rear main crossmember bolts directly to the bottom of the car without bushings.

Here's what I ordered
Apikol rear main diff mount/bushing
034 street density front/inner diff bushings
Apikol outer front Poly bushings
Energy Suspension Poly front lower control arm bushings
Powerflex spherical bearing/bushing for control arm rear/inner
OEM knuckle bushings
OEM toe adjuster bushings
Left parking brake cable
Right parking brake cable
Left track arm
Right track arm

Not sure if there is anything else...

Looks great, you will be happy! I just did a similar treatment as well.