The Project Pad

Just received what will hopefully be the final bracket I need for the alternator and serp belt setup.


Clearance test, I dont have any of the proper sized bolts yet so I'll need to get those next week Since I'm working all weekend.


Looks like everything will clear fine!


Need to sandblast and paint the last bracket as it came from a Canada car.

little progress made, but I did get the serpentine belt setup installed.
Between finding the brackets, cleaning them up, getting all the correct length bolts etc. I have spent way too much money and time on this.
In case anyone is looking for fitment advice in the future for running AAN intake manifold and accessories,it does fit in the small body car.
I am using:
-1995 Audi 90 Quattro V6 power steering pump (as it is supposed to be the proper pressure for a coupe rack with the brake bomb deleted)
-AAN P/S pump bracket, Alternator and bracket, AAN Serp belt idler, no AC and a shorter belt.
Running this setup I was able to find a belt from NAPA, Part # 25060509 , this is the correct length 6 rib belt for AAN without AC .


Cleaned up and painted the brackets,

And threw everything in, looks good and plenty of clearance


So the next step is to do a bunch of small things,
-Make a catch can
-Tap into turbo housing (it doesn't come with it from 034) for reference line
-Get the diverter, N75 & wastegate lines routed
-Continue wiring disaster
-Fit up radiator hoses
-Install power steering hoses & reservoir

Moved on to some more little stuff. Feels like I'm getting closer!
-Bled brakes. Pedal feel is solid but without driving the car I don't have 100% guarantee that everything is plumbed up properly.
-Plumbed up N75 and diverter piping.
-Made a catch can. Not sure where is the best place to put it yet? I think I'll let everything else find it's place on the firewall, then see where there is room.
Been excited about learning to work with metal lately so here is the progress on the catch can.
Used a piece of a YZ250F muffler to make this with. May end up having to use something bigger it seems but well see.







Next projects will be:
-Wiring continues
-Figure out location for catch can
-Figure out radiator plumbing
-Mount bumper skin

Started working on the radiator set-up.
People say you can use the Coupe radiator, tinted back and to the side to clear the TB but with this done it is literally up against the body and engine mount on each side. I dont know what happens when you get on it and the engine moves around a little if you're already touching there, so due to this and to the age and condition of the radiator I decided to ditch it and go with a smaller but more efficient radiator.
Ended up using a 3 row from a Honda with a 2,300 CFM 12" Diameter fan.

Parts used in case anyone is looking for a similar set-up:
Radiator: 3-Row from some Honda, brazed aluminum core. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmradciv92x
Perma Cool 19122 Electric fan http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19122
Tried to get a couple of shots of the clearance this will leave with the AAN intake manifold (keep in mind it's modified with TB moved forward) Hard to see whats going on in there.

Clearance with the stock Radiator:



New radiator:



New radiator @ engine mount:


New radiator @ body:


unfinished product:

Looking good Brohan

TimS6Avant wrote:Looking good Brohan

Thanks dude still doesn't run but getting closer.
Got the VEMS stuff today thanks to Marc @ EFIExpress/
Try to get the rest of the radiator piping done before monday

Build is moving along nicely.

Thanks for being thorough with your documentation, I may end up following suit with the rad until I can fab a front rad solution. Though I'm running Hank's old intake, so am likely working with more TB clearance. Time will tell.

You got my pm, right?

chaloux wrote:You got my pm, right?

Matt, thank you for the help!!
Saw the PM, havent logged on in quite a while!
I have a friend who just changed job but was an certified Audi Tech for 10+ years , and he gets the wiring and is very familiar with the diagrams so I've convinced him to help me. Still, its a time consuming process. What we are hoping to end up with is a harness that actually plugs in rather than having splices everywhere, so the stock AAN harness is getting modified to take the correct plugs to plug into the car, then there will be a seperate accessory harness to get the signals that need to get to the autocheck where they need to plug in. To do this I will be using old factory plugs removed from the body side of a spare '95 Audi harness.
Looks like the switched power source will be the easy part and the auto-check crap is going to be the most time consuming of all.

PRY4SNO wrote:Build is moving along nicely.

Thanks for being thorough with your documentation, I may end up following suit with the rad until I can fab a front rad solution. Though I'm running Hank's old intake, so am likely working with more TB clearance. Time will tell.

The stock radiator would have fit, slanted and tilted back (should be pictured above IIRC) but it is very very close, to the point where if the engine rocked back and forth in the mounts at all, it would have essentially pinched the radiator up against the frame. So , that was my concern there, and with the price of the new radiator I opted to go that route, I think it will be quite a bit more efficient. I will post a picture of my intake manifold, its modified "Hank" style but I cant remember exactly how much I took out of it compared to him. Eventually I would like to build my own manifold from scratch but at this time getting the car to run is much more of a priority.


I am saving all of my receipts so I have part numbers to refer back to and keeping a spreadsheet of what I've spent on this project- Terrible idea.
If you have any questions about parts I am using please feel free to ask. I had a really hard time finding which parts I would need for some of the aspects of this build, my hope is that I can save someone from having to go through the same stuff. Let me know of any questions you might have about the setup I'm running.

Filter fitment
This is an ebay replica of the HKS 4" Shallow filter. The reason it is a replica is because the real HKS version is 145.00 new which is assinine, so until I find a cheaper one this is it.
The 4" turbo inlet really makes things tough when trying to run an intake of any sort, but for EFI it's sweet. If you're not going the VEMS/Megasquirt/EFI Speed density route and need a MAF I would not recommend buying a 4" inlet turbo




TiAL Sport "Q" Bov.

Awesome Pat. If I could do it again I would do econoseal and either buy or make a harness. It would be cleaner with less splicing. I may eventually redo the wiring but the main point for me is that it works.

chaloux wrote:Awesome Pat. If I could do it again I would do econoseal and either buy or make a harness. It would be cleaner with less splicing. I may eventually redo the wiring but the main point for me is that it works.

Matt, honestly it's not a bad idea to go econoseal and a custom harness from Marc @ EFI express. Reasons being
1) the wiring is a headache
2) Cost is not bad. Econoseal ECU is way cheaper than the PnP so you save hundreds there which you can put toward your harness
3) Simplicity: you wont have any of the extra stuff that is not needed in your harness. IIRC Marc told me he can make a full custom plug and play harness for the econoseal.
If i had the extra money to spend I would have gone that route, but I've added up a majority of what ive spent on this project already and It makes my head spin.

On the other hand, with the 4K , you don't have to deal with the extra things that I'm trying to make work, like the autocheck, so it should be alot less headache.

Looking so stinking good Pat! Your getting so close, hurry up so we can make room for the s6 to get tore down

TimS6Avant wrote::drool: Looking so stinking good Pat! Your getting so close, hurry up so we can make room for the s6 to get tore down

Any time dude.
I waiting on CB to help me with the wiring, I cant do anything else at this point until then. going to pick up another project this week so this will have to get finished soon. I need to hear that I-5

Afterthought wrote:Just received what will hopefully be the final bracket I need for the alternator and serp belt setup.


Clearance test, I dont have any of the proper sized bolts yet so I'll need to get those next week Since I'm working all weekend.


Looks like everything will clear fine!


Need to sandblast and paint the last bracket as it came from a Canada car.

What amp rating is the alt and where did you get the bracket and alt from ?

Boom! looking good!

Boosted20vt wrote:What amp rating is the alt and where did you get the bracket and alt from ?

The alternator is just a OE 1995 S6 alternator from the dealership, I'm at work so I don't have the part numbers now.
The brackets are also from an S4-S6 AAN engine. I sourced the brackets used from posting on MG.
I dont know what you have going on but keep in mind you need both brackets (one goes under the other) and the bolts that go with them, if you find these parts used.
Also see earlier in my post, you either need to run all AAN stuff (AAN manifold, aan serp belt with tensioner, aan alernator, etc.) or all 3B/7A v-belt style brackets and accessories.
let me know if you have any questions.

AAN SWAP 20VT AAN WIRING INFO

These are useful resources for anyone doing a swap like this:

S2 Wiring harness: This is pretty much an end-all-be-all badass PDF--> http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/ABY_Wiring.pdf

AAN Wiring: Ffuse/device connections on the inside of the car--> http://12v.org/urs/AANEngineHarnessPassengerSideV2.pdf

Coupe stock wiring (~2/3 down the page)--> http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=41889

Early ABY Wiring --> http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/B/B73.PDF

Late ABY Wiring --> http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/C/C50.PDF

Finished my intake, for now. At some point I will remake the pipe from the intercooler to throttle body.



Started on some more wiring. Pulled the AAN harness through the firewall where the AC used to be. Made two plates to seal that area for now and drilled 2 1/4" holes in them and used a factory rubber piece.

this stuff is a must have

So this is the AAN harness, inside of the car side. This is the page you need to look at to decipher what those are. (thank you urs4boy on quattroworld)

When this conversion is done using the AAN harness, the fuses on the harness will stay just like they are, (I think) . I opted to find a place under the right side of the dash for these, since they are not long enough to reach the fuse holders in the fusebox where they belong. At this point in the project I dont want to cut anymore wires than I have to until I have a car that runs.
The other connectors that are here would tie into the factory wiring under the carpet in the passenger side footwell of the s4/s6. Some of these need to be modified and run over to the other side of the car, to tie in to the main fuse panel.

I know where some of them will go but as far as others I am lost. If anyone recognizes these wires please let me know... they are under the main fuse panel but I dont know where they were plugged in. They were unplugged when I took over the project.
1)

2)

3)

wiring continues. Using a harness from my first car (1995 90 Q V6.) to get the proper size and color wires I need to tie into things. This is also useful for plugs (like female spades for the fusebox terminations) and tracing things out. Ignition switch, etc. The wiring and fusebox is virtually the same.
Stole the fuel pump relay from here 4D0 951 253 (#208) this is the same as urs4/urs6, this is the one you need if you do this swap.


Interior of the car

Big weekend!!!
After 3.5 days of wiring and cleanup, Got the car started.

[youtube]http://youtu.be/Xg9I-02ptc0[/youtube]


She's still not really in drivable shape, needs a lot of things to be dialed in . Got power and grounds in the proper spots to the fusebox, but still need to tie in all of the instrument cluster signals. I'm going to do this using the T5/T10 plug, which gets removed with the 7A harness. This plug should be the last missing piece to the under the dash wiring. Minus the few that I don't know what are (pictured a couple posts above. PLEASE COMMENT IF YOU KNOW WHAT THESE ARE!)

Well... had the car running last week. Now she wont run. Back tracking and trying to figure out what I did but I dont see anything that could be causing a no start issue.
Was looking forward to getting the dash in but I have to get this figured out first