The Project Pad

quattro87 wrote:My plan exactly Martin. I wanted to rebush the 30yr old control arms anyway. Poly, density, or oem?

Depends on what you want to do with the car, for DD I use alloy subframe bushes and OEM control arm.
Solid strut mounts (comp brake are nice), and rest oem. For tie rod assemblies up front just use brand new 4kq assemblies (very inexpensive) with Rabbit ends. Nice thing about 20vt cars is you don't need the bent tie rod on the pass side so now you can have both sides with adjustment :wink:

I think that is sound advice from Martin. I picked up a lot of vibration and road noise when I went to the delrin control arms.... though the car is so much tighter now... I think for Herr, Martin has it right.

I dunno, I have solid / delrin everywhere, and the only one I dont like is the rear diff mount. Is there something in the middle of the road for the control arms, are the poly flex softer than delrins?

You know he says this car will be a DD and has to be kept within a reasonalbe confort zone but I this is going to turn into the real project car..

p.s. remember that vibration / noise I was complaining about - suspecting the mounts were the culprit? It was the drivers front axle, the bolts had loosened up at the flange. Retightened them and everything quieted right down.

Wanna trade Sean? I have the poly rear diff mount, and I feel like it is too soft.

yea, if I can get this thing out I'd probably trade it.

I finally un-pistoned a rod from project corsa last night. PM me your address again.

Just trade me the bracket, or are you sporting the one piece rear diff?

got the one piece

find me something with a torsen in it and I'll send ya the bushing - i dont think my diff has much life left in it, sounding pretty clunky.

I have a 3.89 016 with torsen if anyone is looking..

Depends on what you want to do with the car, for DD I use alloy subframe bushes and OEM control arm.
Solid strut mounts (comp brake are nice), and rest oem. For tie rod assemblies up front just use brand new 4kq assemblies (very inexpensive) with Rabbit ends. Nice thing about 20vt cars is you don't need the bent tie rod on the pass side so now you can have both sides with adjustment

I was planning on the solid subframe mounts and I already have a set of Comp Brake strut mounts for the car, but I hadn't decided on the control arms. I've heard too many people complain about the rear diff done in delrin. Martin, do you happen to have the 4kq and rabbit piece part #s? It sounds like I ought to get those pieces before I fab and weld up a downpipe. Does the straight tie rod assembly allow for a 3" downpipe?

quattro87 wrote:Martin, do you happen to have the 4kq and rabbit piece part #s? It sounds like I ought to get those pieces before I fab and weld up a downpipe. Does the straight tie rod assembly allow for a 3" downpipe?

Hi John,

I don't have part numbers handy but, any Worldpac distributor should have them on the shelve.
I just order from their online catalogues.
I have those 4kq tie rod assemblies on my car and 3" downpipe fits fine.

Hope this helps.

Martin, thanks for the information. I will look into ordering. Will all the 4kq years work? I kind of like this idea as it not only gives me new tie rods, but frees up the bent rod for the transplant of the "clean 20v" into it's new home. It's been pretty windy here today and I came home to see the car cover blown off of the recipient Coupe GT. It has a few problems, but all in all it is a very rust free decent car to turbo.

Here is a picture I took while the cover was off. It's very dirty, but you'll get the idea.


Now I just need to figure out what to do with my spare Urq motor.

The Ur-q tie rod will not fit the Coupe strut, uless you are doing a 5-bolt and using Ur-q or 5k strut.

Yes, any 4kq/Coupe, even typ 89 cars will do.

Cheers

So does the Ms. have her own project thread? I don't even see this car in your sig, trying to make us believe it really IS hers?

ralleyquattro wrote:The Ur-q tie rod will not fit the Coupe strut, uless you are doing a 5-bolt and using Ur-q or 5k strut.

Yes, any 4kq/Coupe, even typ 89 cars will do.

Cheers

Aren't the tapers in the strut arms different between the Urq and 5kt? I seem to remember that they are upside down from one another and with the Urq bent rod that is one piece you wouldn't be able to turn the end so that it would fit into the taper of the 5k strut unless the arm was cut, flipped, and rewelded. What rabbit ends do you use on the 4kq tie rods. Any special year?

So does the Ms. have her own project thread?

She probably has a project thread in her blog or maybe facebook. I'm not sure. :wink:

quattro87 wrote:Aren't the tapers in the strut arms different between the Urq and 5kt? I seem to remember that they are upside down from one another and with the Urq bent rod that is one piece you wouldn't be able to turn the end so that it would fit into the taper of the 5k strut unless the arm was cut, flipped, and rewelded. What rabbit ends do you use on the 4kq tie rods. Any special year?

Correct, taper is upside down, but it's the same taper. So yes, I am corrected, 5kt strut will not work with stock Ur-q tie rod.

Any year MK1 Scirocco/Rabbit. I usually choose 1980 as a default year for my searches.

Now that I have a head rebuilt and ready to go I decided it's time to come up with a bottom end to bolt it to. As mentioned previously the plan is to use an AAN bottom end with Scat rods to bolt the 7A head to. The longblock came delivered to the house on a pallet and looked to be in pretty decent shape with under 100k on it and probably could have just been swapped in as is, but I wanted to go through it putting rings, bearings, rods, and ARP hardware in.

The AAN as it was delivered to the house.



After pressure washing and attached to an engine stand ready to tear down.



Another reason for using the 7A head. I hate trying to get exhaust studs that have broken off flush, out of the head.



After pressure washing I pulled the engine down to just the block which looked to be in good shape. There was rust on the outside, but the inside showed very little wear with no ring ridge at all. After cleaning all the rust and crap off of the block with a needle chipper, pressure washing again with added attention to the oil galleys and prepping the block with a rust converter, it was time to roll outside and paint.



Back inside ready to start assembly.



I'm happy with how the internals looked and with the cleaned up block as a starting point. I now needed to get the rotating assembly with the Scat rods balanced.

What needle chipper do you use Dad?

The one in the bottom drawer of the stainless toolbox. It is just a cheap HF unit, but works pretty well. It's nice to get to the deep pockets that really needs sand blasting and especially if it is something that can't be hot tanked.

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-ai ... 96997.html

stop copying me!

Mentosman42 wrote:stop copying me!

Have you got your rotating assembly balanced yet? We need to keep moving so WE don't miss the Las Vegas GTG deadline. You're coming right? :wink:

getting dropped off tomorrow or tuesday.

Mentosman42 wrote:getting dropped off tomorrow or tuesday.

Stop copying me.......mine is already dropped off!! :wink:

Nothing like a little rivalry to keep projects moving.
:slap:

i like the speed with which you move when deeply motivated, John

Why not to use AAN head, couple broken em studs no big deal to drill, if 7a head is used it will need serious work, water mani, will need to drill and tap 10 exhaust mani holes, no cam position sensor.