The Project Pad

I may have a set of black floor mats lying around. I also have this boost gauge if you want it.

Hey I appreciate the offer! But I think I'd like to try and find a set of mats that matches the interior color (sort of a tan-ish light gray). And although it's a great spot from an appearance perspective, I don't think I want to put the boost gauge in the air vent - with no A/C, I need as much fresh air as possible.

Hey AJ... I keep meaning to ask but forgetting, how's your Megasquirt thing going?

I ended up having to change one of the resistor values on the divider board to make my MS work in the new car - I think that's because I'm getting more noise due to the battery cable being a lot closer to the MS wiring. So if you have any trouble getting things working with the divider, let me know and I can give you a few pointers.

I need there to be more time in the day. Got the parts ordered for the divider board and sitting on the bench waiting to be soldered. Too much to do and not enough time. I'm trying to get the engine, radiator and dash made so I can start wiring the car.

elaw wrote:Hey I appreciate the offer! But I think I'd like to try and find a set of mats that matches the interior color (sort of a tan-ish light gray). And although it's a great spot from an appearance perspective, I don't think I want to put the boost gauge in the air vent - with no A/C, I need as much fresh air as possible.

Didn't realize you posted twice lol. This boost gauge was run in the center set of vents. You will never notice it airflow wise. and it does look a lot nicer than the column pod

mr_aj_johnson wrote:I need there to be more time in the day. Got the parts ordered for the divider board and sitting on the bench waiting to be soldered. Too much to do and not enough time. I'm trying to get the engine, radiator and dash made so I can start wiring the car.

Well you are only so far away have one running the divider board too. And I like Boise....

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Ski trip?

Girlfried wants a vacation, maybe a weekend getaway and look it over.

Well I haven't had much to write lately - the car just works! I'm working on relaying the headlights which are also going to get swapped out for Depo e-codes, hopefully maybe that'll be done in a few weeks.

I do have one question for the gurus: how does one remove the gas pedal from the car? It looks like maybe it should just pop out of the plastic bracket holding it to the floor? And/or can it come out with the bracket attached?

It would be difficult to impossible to hook a cruise-control actuator to the throttle body with my modded intake manifold, so I'm looking into attaching it to the pedal...

would love to know the location and value of resistor you used for this:

"The electronic thingy that controls the rear diff - I know most people just cut the speed wire going to it so it never auto-unlocks, but you all know that I like to be different. So... I modified the box so it unlocks but at a higher speed. About 35 MPH to be exact, although I might tweak it a little higher. The mod is easy, you just solder another resistor across one that's already on the board. I forgot to take any pix, but if anyone wants to do this, post a pic of the inside of the box and I can show you which resistor it is."

Well it's located inside the box and its value is about a nickel!

If you had a box open and could post a photo of the inside I could show you exactly - unfortunately mine's buttoned up and installed in the car and I forgot to take any photos. I do recall the resistor is right near the edge of the board opposite the connector (ie at the "top" if you hold the board with the connector facing down), near the middle, adjacent to a solenoid. That probably won't help much though, as there are probably 40 resistors on that board! Definitely about 10x more complicated than it needs to be.

Re the resistor value, it's high - I think I ended up using 560K? That's in parallel with the resistor already on the board. Lower values mean higher speeds and it's pretty sensitive - I think I figured out 470K equaled 70 MPH or something like that. Probably the ideal solution would be to fit a 1 meg trimpot and tweak it to the exact setting desired.

The gas pedal snaps into a braket on the firewall. Kibda botch to get out you have to get a screw driver of just the right size in behind and get just enough leverage..... Damn Germans :grin:

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Yeah I dug thru the Bentley last night, didn't think it had anything about the pedal, but finally found it. Book says to replace the bracket whenever it's removed - I guess they expect you to break it!

That doesn't surprise me.... It isn't on of the easier tasks on these cars at least until you have done it

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So here's yet another goofy question. Can a radio lose its ability to require a code?

Yes I know that sounds strange but it seems to have happened. My car has the stock Weisbaden radio. During its "transformation", the car sat for months without a battery. And yet the radio works fine and has never required a code... which is good because I don't have it!

Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? Not that I'm complaining, but it would kinda stink if one day the radio changed its mind and asked for the code that I don't have. :tard:

You can program the radio not to ask for a code used to have the dealer wipe them for me. Really, who wants to steal a factory radio......

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I've been happy driving the 80 for a couple of months now. But recently I've noticed the coolant level dropping, with no puddle or visible leakage under the hood. Then today I got in the car after running an errand and noticed a "characteristic odor".

So it looks like I get to play "the heater core game" (does anyone ever win at that game?).

And as always I have a question: what's the word on which brands are good and which aren't? It looks like at the high price end there's Febi, "Spectra premium" for a bit less, and I can get an "Auradia" one for 18 bucks!

Don't go cheap online. A part that is such a pia to change.......

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I did the heater core in my B3 in August. I asked the same question but ended up rolling the dice with a cheaper heater core from AutohausAZ. Hopefully it lasts a while

az only has a meyle $44 unit, anyone use that?

I will be doing mine when I pull the dash out to do the wiring for the swap. I haev been looking around, and no one seems to have any real feedback as to which brands are good and or bad. I was hopeing to find out myself which one to get.

my2000apb wrote:az only has a meyle $44 unit, anyone use that?

Say what?

When I search their site I see this:http://www.autohausaz.com/search/produc ... ter%20Core
A Thermex and an Auradia, you could get both of 'em for $44!

Oh goody! I just found out I can get one at my local AutoZone for only $329.99!

I'm going to head right over there once this pile of $20 bills I set on fire burns out.

I put a Thermex in my eS2 a few years ago. No complaints and the new owner hasn't said it's broken yet. Probably only about 4K miles on it though.

And the $44 Meyle on AZ is for the older HVAC box found in the B2 chassis. That's what I got for the URQ.

Okay time for a quick semi-change of subject! I ordered a new core from GAP since they generally carry good brands and I know they can get it to me before the weekend without $$$ shipping.

While I'm in there, I suppose it would make sense to re-foam the air flaps. Can anyone recommend a good product for doing that? In my experience, a lot of foam comes with lousy adhesive and it would kind of stink if the foam starting coming off in 6 months...