The Project Pad

I found a couple things I missed the last time I put it all together. With no AC I wasn't sure which wires I didn't need anymore.

Well Carlisle was a success! I made it there and back with the only issue being the emp gauge dying. 1000 miles of highway driving at 4000 rpm. I really need an 01E swap


A couple things showed up while I was gone that I'd really hoped would be there before the trip:
New plates:
New wheels:

That thing looks great Ben! Nice work!

Really enjoyed seeing (and hearing) this thing over the weekend. What was great was the conversation at night revolving around coolant and your radiator cap set up. I always learn something new which is why I love Carlisle....tons of knowledge and brains in one place.

that was so much fun riding in it.

me: "was that full throttle?"
Ben: "no" :floors it:
me "weeee!"

frostyflax17 wrote:that was so much fun riding in it.

me: "was that full throttle?"
Ben: "no" :floors it:
me "weeee!"

Me from the back seat "wow"

Great meeting you Ben. Can I get a ride next time?

This car looked very clean at Carlisle. I would have liked to look at little closer and get involved in some discussion, but time constraints dictated that I leave short of that. Oh well. Nice work on this thing! Gotta love V8 coupe swaps.

Rides for all next time! I need to get a new transmission setup by then though.

Believe it or not, I was super excited to hear from Alan and Marc that I had set the radiator up to not bleed properly. It explains a bunch of cooling issues I had on the prior setup. I think I have it pretty well bled now but I'm definitely changing the radiator cap out to make the coolant bottle the ONLY relief point.

Currently I have a 14psi radiator cap on which is not allowing any air to escape the top of the radiator. I didn't realize that the hose just under that cap was closed unless I hit 14psi (overheating). So with my current setup, the radiator has no connection to the expansion tank and therefore makes a great place for air to get trapped. I am pretty sure I had this problem before but mostly have eliminated it since with my current setup. The solution is a 0psi radiator cap and the expansion tank's cap at 14psi as the only relief valve. Then I can have air escape the top of the radiator into the expansion tank like it should!

Chris, I saw your car briefly but didn't get a chance to say hi. It was raining pretty hard at that point on Saturday and all the hoods were closed too! Maybe next year!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WCRcuCZI50


soper handy
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002S ... QNLVJ43NOW

Marc was talking about this setup too. I need more tools!

Interesting, I bet that was my issue too.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I figured out a solution to the radiator problem today.

I ordered this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380175 to replace this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-km-70 as a cap for the radiator.

As I mentioned, the cap was blocking the passage from the top of the radiator to the overflow nipple. This is probably basic stuff, but I didn't realize how this worked and as I set it up I created a perfect place for air to get trapped.

On a pressurized cap, (like the one shown below that was replaced) the spring is pushed up when the radiator achieves a certain pressure (in this case 15 psi) and with the spring pressed up, the overflow tube is now accessible for coolant to dump out of.


So the replacement of the cap with one that is missing the lower part (a 0psi cap) opens that overflow tube up.




I also took the opportunity to replace the hose I had there with a much better silicone hose. I was previously using a hose (that may or may not have been made for coolant) with a molded 90 in it that I had going straight. This required a different fitting for the overflow tube. I used a 1/8" MIP tube and fitting to get up to the 3/8" that the coolant bottle nipple is.


When I went to open the top of the radiator to take the old cap off and put the new one on, there was 1 1/2" of air in the top of the radiator!
With it all the way to the top and the new cap on it, I had this much room in the coolant bottle. I had been at MAX fill.



The result after firing everything up was an instant circulation of coolant!


Now to figure out the misfire that appeared this morning

I am working to figure out the misfire I have and have established that I have ground being pulsed through all the POS tracks.

I bought a coil tester http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71240-Ener ... ge_o00_s00 that arrived today and I am going to test my coils.

I googled for a video on how to use it and this is the first thing that popped up. it's AMAZING

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsAJxy45YWE[/youtube]

Coil #2 tested bad! problem solved.

This is probably from having the hood open in the pouring rain all day last saturday

Grillage wrote:Coil #2 tested bad! problem solved.

Glad it an easy fix!

If you require any more info on the setup George is running on his B4, shoot him a PM rs4tech.

Nice job on the coolant cap. Who would have thought?

It's been a while and I have a couple questions for the collective.

Firstly, I'm blowing white smoke at decel and when coasting down hills etc. I first thought this could be bad valve stem seals but after talking with Marc at Carlisle, he suggested maybe the PCV system is pressurized. How would I troubleshoot this?

Also, I was screwing around with the engine the other day and realized that the open holes in the injectors (I use the ABZ vacuum shrouded injectors) are essentially 8 large vacuum leaks. So I took some spare silicone hose and connected them to each other. Now I have been stalling at decel quite a bit. I guess the easiest solution would be to just open them back up but I'd like to fix this in VEMS. Since I really haven't had to do much in VEMS I'm confused about where to find this. Is this fuelcut because the Vacuum is too high? Where would I adjust?

thanks!

I got the stall issue fixed. Any suggestions on the pcv?

B5 S4 at the junkyard! I pulled the 01E yesterday

Anybody have a 4000 driveshaft?

Nice score! Are you planning to rebuild it? Also, dont forget the outputs from the B5 rear diff so you can use your current CV shafts. I believe they need machined 3mm to be correct.

I'll go back and grab those outputs. Just the cups right?

What's involved in a rebuild? Is there a write up somewhere?

Yes, should just be the cups you need. There is a write up on MG with the part# to be sure.

As for a rebuild, not sure total involvement. I do know the complete rebuild kit can be purchased from JHM, but not cheap. I should probably do my UrS 01E before I install it.

JHM has a $20 install video for their rebuild kit. Well worth the cost. Aaron mentioned somewhere the only thing wrong with it is they consistently mention the order of the 5-6 gears or synchros in the opposite direction. And it drives him nuts lol

Rebuild kit is about $700.
https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/ ... -2054.html