The Project Pad

I think Sean used a RR UrQ throttle cable for his Wagner manifold in his 20vt 4kq? I used a B3 20v one, but the gas pedal connection is different so I had to crimp the cable to the B2 gas pedal hook.

alxdgr8 wrote:I think Sean used a RR UrQ throttle cable for his Wagner manifold in his 20vt 4kq? I used a B3 20v one, but the gas pedal connection is different so I had to crimp the cable to the B2 gas pedal hook.

I believe that’s 857 721 555 A
Probably would be almost perfect for me but the second hurdle is basically with all these cables . I can’t find them anywhere . Only place that shows them in stock is ECS tuning (comes up on a google search) but I don’t know if their website actually has it in stock or just shows that way.
A quick look at the ones laying around in various cars about my place ,

Supplied with the manifold but fits a C4.
Overall length , approx 40”
“Body” length from firewall to end of shielding is correct , about 18” but the cable itself needs a hook on the end and should be A few inches longer




Stock URQ , approx 28” body. So too long
But overall length too short . Proper ends



B3 90 20V . Way off


80Q 20v . Same as B3 90 20V or close too it . Not long enough and too slow


Easiest solution if I can find a decent crimp is to lengthen the overall cable length of mine a bit while at the same time adding a hook to the end . If I can find a suitable crimp end . Not something I want to be repairing on the side of the road

I tried going to my local German shop to see what they had hanging on the wall but they had only a few to look at. I guess I could try a NAPA or something when they’re open to see what they have but I doubt they’ll be as close as the one I’ve got .

I've used non insulated crimp splices covered with glue lined heat shrink. looks pretty good, and holds extremely tight. will not come out. like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Non-Insulated-Bu ... B000W20ZVA

I’ve silver soldered new ends and replaced/ extended cables as well.

Tried the backpurge setup, making some pipes for my cooling system .


I guess lack of backpurge was not the reason why my welds don’t look cool [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] but I feel like I’m getting the hang of it









I ran out of metal so I had to make this in like
800 pcs


Pretty good clearance for the PS pump and intercooler



I think I might have to get rid of the orange in the engine bay.

Looks great. I think you have too much heat in the welds. I have this same problem...

audifreakjim wrote:Looks great. I think you have too much heat in the welds. I have this same problem...

Yeah I guess I need to find the balance between not enough and too much heat. It seems like when I move faster and/or add a little less rod, I get a better result .

It may be the rod I’m adding too. I was working a little on pulling it away less , I could be pulling it from the shield gas and contaminating the weld that way .

Will experiment some more .

If you find a cable that's long enough but the sheath is the issue you can always cut it shorter as needed. From the picture above it looks like the stock one has an appropriate length sheath for your intake, but it's just the cable that is the wrong length. Mark's idea looks like a good one for that.

Ordered some crimps for the cable and will start there to see what I can do with what I have (the URQ cable + s2 cable) . If not will move to maybe another cable .

One more small piece ready.
Filter adapter on so now I can run the filter here or use some pipe to Locate it elsewhere if needed





Think I may have figured out the trick with the welder too but I ran out of gas so will have to wait to try it unfortunately

Another run at the welds. Getting better just need to get steady and get the hang of when to dip the rod and what not .







Not sure if I will polish this one smooth or leave it as it. Next couple days I’ll find some clamps and what not and see if I can get the cooling system all closed up.

Tinkered around in the shop today but didn’t really accomplish much .
I finished the radiator pipe. Plenty of clearance everywhere so that’s good .




Started looking again at the oil
Cooler . Originally it was going to go here (stock URQ ic location) but I’m not sure about it now.
Reason being if I leave the passenger side open , I could run the intake down a little and have it further away from the engine .

If I do that , I would have to put the oil
Cooler in front of the radiator , lower area by the power steering .


Also looking at the exhaust and wondering if there is a way to make a heat shield and have it not look totally ugly.
This is a quick piece made in the brake to get an idea.

Those coolant pipes came out looking great.

The exhaust shield looks good as well. Would you tack some nuts or something to the manifold so you can secure the far side and keep it from rattling?

Nateflix56 wrote:Those coolant pipes came out looking great.

The exhaust shield looks good as well. Would you tack some nuts or something to the manifold so you can secure the far side and keep it from rattling?

Yeah I was thinking I could either do that or coat the header in something as well. It is cool to be able to see the tubular-ness of the header.
Also thinking of locating the air filter down lower somewhere

Swapped out my sleeves

Nice!

I'm thinking light grey for my fire sleeves... but now you've got me thinking...

Those black sleeves look way better!

PRY4SNO wrote:Nice!

I'm thinking light grey for my fire sleeves... but now you've got me thinking...

if engine bay is black maybe some light stuff will offset a little bit. The braided lines look cool too. I just blacked it out because the orange was so bright !

One thing that I realized that sucks after seeing things start to like all tidy... is sometime I probably should pull the header and get it coated , but I imagine that will be a ways off .

looking good! which product are you using for the sleeves?

the german wrote:looking good! which product are you using for the sleeves?

The orange stuff is made by Eaton . The black stuff I think is called Vulcan . It will come up on eBay or amazon if you search that.
Size pictured is 5/8 and that will fit over AN6 but it’s not right . If you step down to 1/2 I don’t think it would fit over an AN6 hose end (maybe before you put the end on?)

cool, good to know. The orange Eaton stuff is what I've use in the past; haven't seen the black before which is why I was curious.

Looking tidy without that orange What are you doing about the after-run cooling? Cooling fan will run wayyy longer without a recirc pump.

Was kinda hard on my battery and rabbit style fuse box.

I forgot about the after run . I’ll look up a diagram and see how it’s supposed to flow


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Got my blocker plate on . Fitting up the IC and hoses .




Not much room to get a hose in here. We’ll see


Tomorrow I need to look at how to seal these M5 Nips

Spent and entire day in the shop and not sure if I accomplished anything ... ha.
I did make some brackets to hold my oil cooler to the bottom of the radiator.
This was the prototype but they were ugly as shit so I remade them and cleaned them up a bit and they’re still ugly but I don’t think it’s a huge deal. They’re functional and light weight



Tried making a radiator shroud for the 14” SPAL fan I have





Everything was looking good until the last two bends . I didn’t realize 6061-t6 would crack. I could weld and polish the corners but it won’t be perfect now and I’ll see it.


I’m
Not sure if I’m going to stick with it or run the Audi tradition RS2 fan shroud and the 500W fan , not sure which would be better but I think that either path will be sufficient . Now I need to see what kind of relayed setup I would need to run the fan.

Personally, I'd weld it and run it for now. If for no other reason than to buy some time while the OEM parts come in, and then do a back-to-back comparison on a hot weekend later in the summer.

The RS2 shroud (aka "Cowl" on the AT website) is PN: 893121207H

Do you have a PN for the 500w fan that's in the RS2/200 20v?