TCombs UrS4: New Radiator, burnt out tail light

[TCombs]

A good while I'm in there task is to re-do all the vac lines with silicon... two reasons. Cleans things up and then you know that everything is solid for another 20+ years of worry free operation. (Sorry if that's been covered, have read the thread but just going off memory of what's been done to this point)

Thats a good idea, I didn't even think of that. Should I just get some bulk silicone hose and replace them or is there a kit to replace them all? I didn't feel like there was that many vac lines on the passenger side of the car, ha but I could be wrong.

[TCombs]

Has anyone recently replaced their fan clutch bearing? I believe that is my noise. I would like to take care of it before it becomes a bigger issue. Do I need to replace the shaft and bearing? Are they one whole unit. Like I said, I can't find a write up just a couple of posts on QW with some pictures of the new and old style.

[PRY4SNO]

I've always just used bulk hose, and cut to fit. The combination of new hose and new clamps lets me know how much progress has been made. Then I use a felt marker on the bolt of the clamps that I've tightened to have a visual of what lines are commissioned.

[alxdgr8]

I just went through a similar issue on my D2 S8. I thought it was the fan bearing and replaced that, but it ended up being the viscous clutch itself (I was getting a high pitched whine at high RPM). Oddly enough, the V8's use the old style fan bearing where the shaft bolts to the block with 3 bolts (except Audi won't admit it's the same and try and sell you the whole assembly). I think that's actually better if you do as you don't have to press it into the block like the newer style. If you have the old style you can just replace the bearing, it bolts onto the shaft and comes off with just a couple taps of a mallet, no press needed on mine. Bearing is 077-115-136-A, should run you around $125.

[TCombs]

I just went through a similar issue on my D2 S8. I thought it was the fan bearing and replaced that, but it ended up being the viscous clutch itself (I was getting a high pitched whine at high RPM). Oddly enough, the V8's use the old style fan bearing where the shaft bolts to the block with 3 bolts (except Audi won't admit it's the same and try and sell you the whole assembly). I think that's actually better if you do as you don't have to press it into the block like the newer style. If you have the old style you can just replace the bearing, it bolts onto the shaft and comes off with just a couple taps of a mallet, no press needed on mine. Bearing is 077-115-136-A, should run you around $125.

My car is 1994, so everything I read so far I should be the old style. I think that is a good idea, however I don't want to just replace the bearing and it be the whole shaft. But its worth a shot. I had it priced out at the dealer, just cant remember what the actual cost was.
Just to double check, is there anyway to tell what style you without pulling everything off? I am doing quite a bit of work this next weekend and will just replace the bearing then, if thats the case.
My noise is kind of like a bad belt, but also a roaring noise when I rev the engine a bit. Not sure if that related or if that's just how the car sounds. Ill see if I can post a video.

[alxdgr8]

I just went through a similar issue on my D2 S8. I thought it was the fan bearing and replaced that, but it ended up being the viscous clutch itself (I was getting a high pitched whine at high RPM). Oddly enough, the V8's use the old style fan bearing where the shaft bolts to the block with 3 bolts (except Audi won't admit it's the same and try and sell you the whole assembly). I think that's actually better if you do as you don't have to press it into the block like the newer style. If you have the old style you can just replace the bearing, it bolts onto the shaft and comes off with just a couple taps of a mallet, no press needed on mine. Bearing is 077-115-136-A, should run you around $125.

My car is 1994, so everything I read so far I should be the old style. I think that is a good idea, however I don't want to just replace the bearing and it be the whole shaft. But its worth a shot. I had it priced out at the dealer, just cant remember what the actual cost was.
Just to double check, is there anyway to tell what style you without pulling everything off? I am doing quite a bit of work this next weekend and will just replace the bearing then, if thats the case.
My noise is kind of like a bad belt, but also a roaring noise when I rev the engine a bit. Not sure if that related or if that's just how the car sounds. Ill see if I can post a video.

You should be able to peak down and see what style you've got. Older style will look look like it's bolted to the block, new style won't have any bolts since it's pressed in.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/33332.phtml

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[TCombs]

Ordered a new bearing from the dealer. Also got an oil and air filter since I will be draining everything and removing the air box. Motor mounts have been ordered and hopefully they will be here in time. I will start spraying the nuts, bolts and studs with PB blaster today. Should hopefully make things easier come removal time!

[alxdgr8]

If you don't have the tools to hold the fan yet, I bought both of these and am extremely happy. I originally bought a smaller/shorter spanner wrench that was supposed to be a knockoff of the original VAG tool but it bent immediately. The OTC one worked like a charm and has the right size pins you need. The long thin fan wrench was also super handy to have vs trying to squeeze a normal thickness wrench and the spanner in there at the same time. Also remember that it's reverse threaded.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F ... UTF8&psc=1

Looks like the fan wrench is unavailable, but I'm sure there's others you could find: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD ... UTF8&psc=1

[TCombs]

If you don't have the tools to hold the fan yet, I bought both of these and am extremely happy. I originally bought a smaller/shorter spanner wrench that was supposed to be a knockoff of the original VAG tool but it bent immediately. The OTC one worked like a charm and has the right size pins you need. The long thin fan wrench was also super handy to have vs trying to squeeze a normal thickness wrench and the spanner in there at the same time. Also remember that it's reverse threaded.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F ... UTF8&psc=1

Looks like the fan wrench is unavailable, but I'm sure there's others you could find: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD ... UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the info. I will look into it. My work should have the tools there but I will double check just to make sure.
It’s getting closer to the weekend. I started soaking last night/this morning. The bottom nuts and studs are hard to get to but there is some space on the top half of the manifold that you can see the bottom nuts. Excited but also I little nervous. Don’t want to get half way and be without a part or anything. I am certain Edna I ordered everything I needed. Even ordered some new exhaust bolts for the down pipe to the cat just to be safe. I like to be able to see things and make sure I got everything so I have a few pageant printed off from ETKA with lots of writing to double check part numbers. Made things easier.

[PRY4SNO]

Honestly it's not that bad to get to the exhaust manifold. The worst ones can be done with a ratcheting wrench from underneath looking up through where the starter motor normally sits. Some people advocate using an s- or c-curved spanner, but that's a lot of work vs. using a ratcheting wrench with some good ergonomics from the flat of your back looking up.

[TCombs]

Well I did it! With a LOT of help from an Audi tech, but its in there. It wasn't as bad as thought it was going to be. It was pretty straight forward. I had soak everything a couples days in advanced and Im sure it helped a lot. There was only one broken stud but we think it was like that before we started the tear it down. A couple of the other nuts came off really easy, almost as if they weren't tight. There was one that I thought for sure it was going to break but it came right off which was nice. The tech was able to drill the remaining part of the stud out.
We removed the other studs after we installed the 4 short studs just to make sure we at least got those ones in. We then installed the new manifold but there was four studs on the tops that were to long and kept the manifold from sitting flush on the block so we ended up cutting those ones down as well. Everything fit after that and tightened up nicely.
Started her up and smoked for a bit burning off all the machining oil and the penetrating oil. No leaks that we could see or hear so all is good. I will check everything again in a week or so! I didn't end up using the "c" shaped wrenches or anything, just basic hand tools. But I did have the luxury of a lift.
I didn't have my motor mounts yet, so those will be going in when I get them in!
(Still haven't quite figured out the whole picture thing and why the first one is on last )

[TCombs]

More pics

[ringbearer]

Good work!

[TCombs]

Good work!

Thanks. It was pretty rewarding getting it taken care of. I feel like there is a little more engine noise now, not that its a bad thing. I have a few weird rattle I would like to get sorted out.
Hopefully get the intake manifold spacer on next and deal with some paint and body work as well as the radio issue come spring.

[IslandRinger]

Nicely done! Do you have a supporting tune for the new hardware or are you just running stock Motronic? I have an RS2 manifold waiting to go in as well.

[TCombs]

Nicely done! Do you have a supporting tune for the new hardware or are you just running stock Motronic? I have an RS2 manifold waiting to go in as well.

I am running the stock Motronic. The PO has mentioned he thought it might have a MTM stage 1 but I’m not sure, I have yet to verify. Haven’t wanted to tear the ECU out and apart.
I didn’t think about changing the tune because it’s the only RS2 part I have. I still have the stock turbo and waste gate/spring.

[IslandRinger]

Nicely done! Do you have a supporting tune for the new hardware or are you just running stock Motronic? I have an RS2 manifold waiting to go in as well.

I am running the stock Motronic. The PO has mentioned he thought it might have a MTM stage 1 but I’m not sure, I have yet to verify. Haven’t wanted to tear the ECU out and apart.
I didn’t think about changing the tune because it’s the only RS2 part I have. I still have the stock turbo and waste gate/spring.

Ah ok that makes sense.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[TCombs]

So now that I have a few performance things done, it’s time to refresh the suspension. I need new struts and shocks but my question is should go with that or invest into getting Coilovers? I have Eibach lowering springs currently. I would also like to get the Apikol rear sway bar and in doing so I should replace the bushings while I’m in there on the rear subframe. Should I go with factory or change over to poly? Is there really that much more vibration with poly bushings? I would like some input because most of you guys have actually been down this path before.

[IslandRinger]

So now that I have a few performance things done, it’s time to refresh the suspension. I need new struts and shocks but my question is should go with that or invest into getting Coilovers? I have Eibach lowering springs currently. I would also like to get the Apikol rear sway bar and in doing so I should replace the bushings while I’m in there on the rear subframe. Should I go with factory or change over to poly? Is there really that much more vibration with poly bushings? I would like some input because most of you guys have actually been down this path before.

I recently just went through refreshing my entire suspension. It all really depends on what you plan on doing with the vehicle. What do you plan on using the vehicle primarily for?

For me, I wasn't planning on tracking the car seriously. At most, I would be doing some spirited driving and maybe the occasional auto-x. I do still daily the car so this was a consideration as well. The biggest change was replacing the old OEM parts. It dramatically changed the feel of the car in any case. I did replace the entire rear end with poly bushings from Apikol, Energy Suspension, and Powerflex. I did not do the rear swaybar at the time as I just didn't have the funds for it. The front end got all new OEM bushings. Shocks/struts and springs were replaced with H&R 29800s and Bilstein Sports. Car was lowered enough and stance was vastly improved. I also replaced all the drivetrain bushings (ie. tranny, engine, diff, snub mounts). On top of that, new control arms and tie-rods, and tracking arms were replaced. Front strut mounts were replaced as well.

In the end, there was definitely some increase in NVH. It's not that terrible and I don't mind it.

Coilovers are a great option as they do allow complete control over height and spring rates. Front end is slightly trickier than rear as it requires some modification of the shock tower. Rears are pretty cut and dry to do. There are some DIY resources floating around somewhere. 2Bennett sells a kit but it's much cheaper to do it on your own.

Most of the suspension parts can be sourced easily. OEM bushings are a dealer available item. As mentioned, I got my poly stuff from Apikol, Energy Suspension, and Powerflex. AK Motosports out of Poland sells entire kits that pretty much cover everything you need to overhaul your suspension bushings. No experience with them but I know of a few people who have used their products and have been happy. As a last note, make sure you purchase new fasteners and be prepared to purchase parts you didn't intend on replacing. Ask me how I know.

Hope some of that rambling helps. If you have any questions regarding the overhaul process, feel free to shoot me a PM.

[pilihp2]

So Like Tarpan said it really depends on the situation. Is this gonna be a daily? is this gonna get tracked?
Are you gonna run Koni's or Bilsteins? Are you going to run super high rate springs or closer to lowering springs rate? These are all big factors.

From my experience i highly recommend against Coilovers unless you do it right.
If you do want to do coilovers you really need to get camber/caster plates with it. The factory strut mounts are NOT designed for the forces that are put on them when going to coilovers. They will work, but it's just not proper and they get beat up real badly.

Also I'd recommend against doing high rate springs with stock damping. Bilsteins and Koni's both are not valved well for anything over 350/lb springs stock. 350 is pushing it too.

You can get plates from 2bennett or Thuppu over on the S2 Forum also known as PKK motorsport.

[TCombs]

So Like Tarpan said it really depends on the situation. Is this gonna be a daily? is this gonna get tracked?
Are you gonna run Koni's or Bilsteins? Are you going to run super high rate springs or closer to lowering springs rate? These are all big factors.

From my experience i highly recommend against Coilovers unless you do it right.
If you do want to do coilovers you really need to get camber/caster plates with it. The factory strut mounts are NOT designed for the forces that are put on them when going to coilovers. They will work, but it's just not proper and they get beat up real badly.

Also I'd recommend against doing high rate springs with stock damping. Bilsteins and Koni's both are not valved well for anything over 350/lb springs stock. 350 is pushing it too.

You can get plates from 2bennett or Thuppu over on the S2 Forum also known as PKK motorsport.

Thank you both for the response. The car is my DD with some spirited driving here and there. I may auto-x it later on but not until I have things done to it, i.e. the suspension mainly. I was talking with some other people and some techs at my work, and I wouldn't mind doing Coilovers. I would also get the car corner balanced at that point if I ever did. But I would also like the rear sway bar. Its just one of those things, I should do it all and that adds up quick. I might just keep the strut/shocks for now and get the sway bar first. That way there is something back there. I would probably do Bilsteins, I have like them as a company for quite a while now.
I would like a comfortable ride, not to harsh but I would also like to be able to push this 4000lb boat around the corners like it is on rails.
I would like to do a refresh with new bushings, be it OEM or poly. I wouldn't mind doing poly in the back just to tighten up the rear end a bit. I already have some vibrations so I don't think adding a little more would really do anything unless it was horrible. I did end up ordering the 70A motor mounts per your guys' recommendation.
If i did coils, I would do camber/caster plates but probably DIY coils. I would go with 350lbs unless I completely hated it but I really doubt so.
I have a lot of resources at work so I would like to get as much done as possible before the end of summer just to make sure everything is dialed in.
I would like a badass, reliable DD that can be pushed pretty hard and the car not even flinch, but the main goal is just to keep old Audi's on the road.

[ringbearer]

How about poly everywhere you can but soft for street and QA1 coilovers in the rear and leave the Eibachs up front and match the rear ride height. When you have time and money again do the front coilovers. I have coilovers and just replaced my sumitomo HTRZ111 with pilot sport 4S and now have much better ride quality.

[TCombs]

How about poly everywhere you can but soft for street and QA1 coilovers in the rear and leave the Eibachs up front and match the rear ride height. When you have time and money again do the front coilovers. I have coilovers and just replaced my sumitomo HTRZ111 with pilot sport 4S and now have much better ride quality.

I will most likely do poly in the rear. Thats not a bad idea to do the coils in the rear and wait, but I would like to do everything together even if it means getting parts over a six month span. Like I said, I think I will buy the rear sway bar first and get that installed and then start on the coils.
I have a brand new set of Conti DWS tires sitting on my freshly powder coated wheels I am waiting to put on once the the weather gets a little nicer, and at that point I will do an alignment just to make sure everything is squared away.
Thanks for the input.

Loxxrider has a DIY write up for coil overs on MG that I have looked at quite a bit. My Brother-in-law used to drive a UrS4 sedan and now has an Avant so I have been talking to him here and there about his feelings on everything since he has had one of these cars set up before.
I think it will help when I get the motor mounts in and I will start to gather some parts, mainly bushings, for the rear.

[ringbearer]

My build thread should have lots of pics of my suspension and coilover build. It's a lot of work but worth it!

[TCombs]

My build thread should have lots of pics of my suspension and coilover build. It's a lot of work but worth it!

I didn’t look at it a bit last night, and I remember looking at it awhile back. Ha I did see there want been an update since mid 2015, is that correct?
I’m a big fan of your car just by the fact of how clean everything’s is. Love the engine bay especially the intake manifold. I was actually telling a buddy of mine about your car and the mods that have been done yesterday I believe it was. I was thinking to myself where can I get some of those parts. Ha.
How is the car now? I appreciate the inout as well. I have to had the car a year yet and I like hearing how others are doing on their car, as they have had them for several years.