The Project Pad

ralleyquattro wrote:You need the 7A/3B oil pan, it has the proper cutout for the side mounted radiator.
Tilting the rad is not ideal as it reduces the effective frontal area and cooling capacity BTDT.

Well that's a bummer! Even if you make duckt work for the rad it will not be as effective?

@ Katman: Yes I've tryed that approach and its "just" to big! Width wise the fluidyne rad is about the same as OE rad, but it's 3.5" thick, OE rad is like 2" thick. I paid next to nothing for this Fluidyne radiator so it wouln't bother me to cut it up if I'm going to get a good result. OE rad has "just" enough room. :( And thanks for the input on TP switches it gave me an idea!

Cool project ... I too am looking into the Grp 2 body kit as well. I currently have an SCCA ITB Audi...I bought Veemans old Audi and transferred the good bits to a better CGT body....(HI Veeman !)

Anywho ..very cool project and I subscribed to the thread..!

-John

Thanks Rabbit05! There is user Tonks4x4, I think, who lives across the pond and had spoiler cut in half to help with shipping costs. I'm still a ways away from body kit.

mrdeye wrote:Whats the difference between 10vN/A and 20vt injectors? At a glance it just looks like the snap ring just below rubber seal and shroud that I pulled off. Anything internally different? N/A on the left, turbo on the right. Reason why I ask is that I can get some for free that came out of a good running engine from a friend. Thanks for your time!

:? :?

I have no idea about injector differences, but what you could do is flow test them like what quattro87 did. Put injectors into some 1 liter bottles and lift up on the fuel dizzy arm and see how much comes out. This will also show you if they have a good pattern and if they are leaky.

I'm sure there is some difference between injectors, but if it helps I'm currently running the injectors (and fuel distributor) from a Ur-Q on my 8v Rabbit engine and it's never run better. I'm not even sure you have to use all matching injectors, but you might as well if you have a set that's better than the one in the car.

-Rog

dont tilt the radiator, it becomes much less effective, duct it well

but also get the 3b/7a pan and it it still wont fit, cut and weld the oil pan, not the radiator
or jsut cut a relief in the oil pan and get it welded back up, much better than welding the radiator

Well I belive I have my harness connections figured out. Thanks Tuffty!
Took off AAN oil pan and put steel pan back on and the radiaror fits!! :-) Might not need 7A/3B oil pan after all :? What do you "GEEKS" think? :-)



Still have to trim for shrouds



Is it still possiable to use windage try and AAN pick up tube? (bent my 20v pick up tube) Took that lil rubber thingy off the end of the AAN pick up tube, pan fits. Spun the crank around couple of times, didn't hear any metal grinding. Anyone BTDT?

:stupid:

Been doing a little searching and I have not found anything about 20v oil pan and AAN windage tray being used together. I think it'll work. But I did find that some of you fellas had to modify your 7A oil pans for the tight or long right hand turns and neck breaking acceleration. :-) Shouldn't have any of that with this build. :wink: When the coupe was running I took it out to a couple auto cross/track events and I was getting the oil light and buzzer warnning as well. So Im figuring I'll have to do the same with 20v oil pan. Thoughts anyone? :-) :cheers:

Javads 7A pan:

Move the radiator to the trunk....LOL...

mrdeye wrote:Been doing a little searching and I have not found anything about 20v oil pan and AAN windage tray being used together. I think it'll work.

I've done that on a 10 NA motor (JT). Got the idea from: http://audi.humanspeakers.com/windage.htm

Thanks Frank! I was going to have the engine/trans bracket meachined but about a week ago the engineering dept. of LRG racing, Tuffty Jones, said to trim windage tray and gaskets so engine/trans bracket fits. Trimmed windage tray w/DREMEL off the engine :-) trimmed gaskets on the engine :x AAN gaskets have meteal in them :frustrated: So I have the oil pan on and radiator is in its home all trimmed up . I'm using OE fan shroud but I had to perssuade it a little to get it to fit. Shroud still hits down by egine mount. :cheers:

sexy

Also had to modify AAN pick up tube to get steel pan to fit then persuade pan a little. I borrowed a camera from local shop to get a look see in the oil pan but I couldn't get the angle of the dangle right with the camera. Gonna pull pan and take measurements to make sure everything is good. :-/

Chaga Chaga Choo Chooooooo!!!!!!!! Moving right along here. Got my oil pick up tube dilemma sorted out. Went to the yard and got a 20v tube. Purchased an oil cooler and gave it some beer,



pizza,


Introduced it to its new home.










I like pictures. How about you?







Are they too big?

Fuel pump was seized up so we got a new one. Bled the fuel system for awhile and after cranking on it a few times the old boy was running again! Still needs O2 sensor and exhaust system so we can get a better tune on it. Does my oil pressure seem high? Here's a short video clip.

Scott down at AA Performance Muffler and Brake in Englewood, Co did the exhaust system. Good people, just don't get all up in his business!!












Click on the pic for the note after the tune!


YEAH BUDDY!!

Can't thank Rich, who we pulled out of retirement for the tune :wink:, and Dan AKA "lowpassat92" and "The Gentle Giant" THANKS GUYS!!


PPPHHEW!!!! Just in time for the big move to Portland, Or.

Big thanks to Scott from Premier Action Video/Photography who took some pics and vids of the break in. Everything went well! Didn't have much power on the low end. So after an hour of doing laps came in and found that a vacuum line had come lose and advanced the timing a little bit. After reattaching vacuum line and messing with timing I got 10 more mph down the front strait! Biggest problem was the tires. They sucked but made it possible to do the track day.





I'll post up the vids when Scott sends them to me.

I have a ton of suggestions! I've done alot of what you've done and more; I assume you have a 1984 coupe (I have the same year)???

Install "energy suspension" mustang trans mounts in place of the stock mushy engine mounts (or the 034 versions), then get rid of the snub completely! I haven't run one for 10 years!
Replace the trans mount with the 034 "density" version (not the super hard "Track" version) mount.
Lose the timing belt cover, front, back, all of it, oil cooler will protect it (you'll need access to the pulley)!
Get a MC2/5000T or NG/NF "90" cam and install it, more duration than the "KX" cam
Get an VW 8V adj. sprocket from Techtonics, you can play with the torque curve to suit your needs on track.
Move your oil cooler to directly in front of the cam pulley (see my pic), you'll get much better airflow, mount it "connector side down" so the oil will drain out when you do an oil change.
Get a 20v oil pan, you'll need all the baffling it has for the track!!

Make sure you have ALL the radiator ducting in place, seal up any holes, I still run the stock radiator on a 2.6L 20v with a seriously built big valve head, 276° cam and on alcohol (E85), I see 195° temps on fast tracks, oil is what gets hot on my car.







Mustang trans mounts:



Whole bunch more:
Do you have coilovers? hard to tell from the pics, you gotta run a rear bar (Addco makes one for the coupe), these cars understeer like pigs on the track!
You can bolt in a 4000q front bar and drop links: 26mm vs 22mm for the coupe. This will help roll quite a bit, but cause the car to understeer more!
You can shim the rear stub axles with "EZ shims" for more camber and 0 toe, you'll need and adj. panhard bar at some point, the rear axle will be slightly offset from lowering the rear....
The front needs much more work and is harder to do, it needs serious camber, you're lucky if you can get -1.5° with the stock setup.
The only real way is to convert to "90" 2 piece struts, you can then get camber bolts to create neg. camber at the "knuckle" (you can get as much as -3.5°), you will have to use the "90" outer cv's, redrill the hubs for 4x100 bolt pattern and machine the hubs "OD" (I just had this done and know of a guy locally who'll do it).
You can run Corrado 11" rotors and G60 2 piston calipers with this setup (I'm running Wilwoods).
Keep the crappy tires and thrash on them! Use them to determine what the balance is front to rear, your limits will be lower and slower, so you'll have time to figure out what's happening before you lose it on track!!

HEY!!! Thanks for the info DDG! I'm no spring chicken just a lil rusty on some of the does and don'ts. I thought these things liked a lot of negative castor because the engine is so far in front of axels??? Oil cooler gets plenty of air! Oil temp stays low as does the coolant. I'd have to say almost too low cause things aren't reaching their normal operating temps. Yes, the car has a 2Bennett coil over kit w/billi sports. My goal was to get the car running so I could drive it on to the trailer for the move to Portland, Or. but things didn't work out. Yay for me!! I love Colorado.....and Portland but I'm kind of use to the 360 days of sun. As for the rear sway bar, which one are you using? I googled it and Addco's website was down or something so I clicked on Summit Racings site and they had a bunch of Addco sway bars! I thought it was the kit for a Dodge something or other. Any who, thanks for all the info and your time!!!


Got it! http://www.addco.net" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mrdeye wrote:HEY!!! Thanks for the info DDG! I'm no spring chicken just a lil rusty on some of the does and don'ts. I thought these things liked a lot of negative castor because the engine is so far in front of axels??? Oil cooler gets plenty of air! Oil temp stays low as does the coolant. I'd have to say almost too low cause things aren't reaching their normal operating temps. Yes, the car has a 2Bennett coil over kit w/billi sports. My goal was to get the car running so I could drive it on to the trailer for the move to Portland, Or. but things didn't work out. Yay for me!! I love Colorado.....and Portland but I'm kind of use to the 360 days of sun. As for the rear sway bar, which one are you using? I googled it and Addco's website was down or something so I clicked on Summit Racings site and they had a bunch of Addco sway bars! I thought it was the kit for a Dodge something or other. Any who, thanks for all the info and your time!!!


Got it! http://www.addco.net

ADDCO catalog page: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/audi/
part #367 is for the rear bar 3/4" or 19mm (that's what I have in the picture above).
I used to run an ADDCO Doge caravan rear bar #423, that was huge and about 26mm

What's your spring rate? It will be painful on the street, but if you run a stiff rear end, that, with the rear bar will reduce or eliminate understeer.
My "old" coupe setup with stock front struts was 500lb. springs in front and 350lbs. in the rear, 26mm front bar and Addco/Caravan 26mm rear bar, Koni sports 75% stiff up front, full stiff in the rear, the Bilsteins don't come close to how stiff the Konis are.

"Camber" not caster is what you want, need for maximum grip and best tire wear on the track, as you turn into a corner, the tire tends to roll over onto the outside shoulder (see pic below, notice the tires rolling under, this is with -3.2° and -2.5° camber front and rear), this reduces the tires contact patch.
Setting up neg. camber "preloads" the inside of the tire, as the tire rolls over, it make full contact with the track (look at the passenger side tires in the pic and you'll see only the inside is touching the track, this show how much camber I'm actually running).

Scott Malonson of Premier Action Video here in Co. put a little video together for me. Awesome guy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPxyth66 ... detailpage" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mrdeye wrote:Scott Malonson of Premier Action Video here in Co. put a little video together for me. Awesome guy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPxyth66 ... detailpage" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Dude, that video's gotta be sped up!!!
Yer car is flying!