The Project Pad

PRY4SNO wrote:Good pics.

Up until now, I've only ever read about that interference. From what I remember, the solution was a BFH and making some room.

On the tunnel It would not take much to fix.
The rubbing on the tail end is pretty bad. when putting in 3rd and 5th I can feel it jamming there and can hear the transmission noise translate through the body of the car so it makes it pretty loud.

Yeah, it's tight. I adapted an 016 linkage for that part because it originally came in the small chassis. Just updated my thread here
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=73&p=83238#p83238

Afterthought wrote:

PRY4SNO wrote:Good pics.

Up until now, I've only ever read about that interference. From what I remember, the solution was a BFH and making some room.

Here are some pics, hopefully by the end of today i will have found a solution. I hate to use a hammer but that might be the only way,

For those working on a swap these pics may help give you an idea of where the clearance issue is.

The trans:

Result of rubbing:


This is the area in the tunnel that I may need to adjust.




Passenger side "spacer" installed.
I've read everywhere that the spacer should be 40MM but this one is 30mm and it seems to work
Spacer dimension:


Linkage arm


Going to replace this while I'm in there.

Got the engine/trans/subframe set in place and bolted up.

These are the engine mounts. Energy suspension 1044 which I think is for a ford mustang 5-speed transmission.




Engine sitting in place. The AAN intake manifold will have to come off for a 3B.


Throwing some wheel studs in while I'm at it.


Got my brakes compressed and new pads in but not without some drama. Thanks harbor freight for another tool that literally didnt even last one use.



This is odd and doesn't make sense to me but the trans linkage seems to have more clearance in this car in the neutral position but I'll have to revisit this tomorrow and actually take a look at how it would shift.

Getting some work done on the exhaust today. Ran the muffler, tailpipe and over the axle piece. It was a real bitch to get that done and i did it in at least twice as many welds as a fab shop would because I don't have a bender so everything is cut and fit up from mandrel bends.
The only piece I reused was the muffler because it was a nice 3" Magnaflow straight through unit and sounded good.








Also started swapping the real coilovers in. I am eventually going to swap the whole subframe. I ordered new bushings and mounts for it. But want to get the other one cleaned up and painted first, then do new bushings, solid mounts, new ball joints and need to find a solution for rear tie rods without dropping $260.





Its too bad the strut housings have so much rust but I may sandblast and repaint them. Problem I have found is even with sandblasting and using acid etch primer, no spray paint will stick very well.

What rpm range, if any, does that Magnabro drone at? I'm curious as I've heard/read that they ought to be offset in/out and yours is offset in/centre out.

Have you considered POR15 for the paint instead of a rattle can? Reading up on their website it says the paint adheres better to rough surfaces or rusty metal.

PRY4SNO wrote:What rpm range, if any, does that Magnabro drone at? I'm curious as I've heard/read that they ought to be offset in/out and yours is offset in/centre out.

Have you considered POR15 for the paint instead of a rattle can? Reading up on their website it says the paint adheres better to rough surfaces or rusty metal.

I didn't notice any drone with this one actually. When I bought it , the system consisted of just a high flow 3" cat and that muffler and It seemed to be a bit quieter than the Borla I had on my '90 Coupe. In this car I'll be running just the muffler. As soon as I get it fired up I can let you know how or if it drones and/or get a video.

Went out to the shop and decided to finish the suspension. Started by replacing the ball joints. Immediately first 20 minutes of being in the shop I snapped off a bolt doing something stupid.


So first I tried to take it out with a screwdriver...


Not that lucky... So I had to figure out how to weld on a bolt.


Finally got the car on the ground so thats nice to be done with one piece of the project.


Decided to take off the intake manifold so I can get the 3B manifold on, but realized with the damn AAN Manifold I need a super long allen.
I see that Snap on makes one, so I am going to get one of those. But in the meantime I got something to work.


Intake manifold off


Water Manifold off


So that's where she sits for the night. For those looking to do anything on the intake manifold , Snap on tool # T10197

Making great progress, keep it up!

Spent a while entire day yesterday cleaning and organizing the shop. it needed to be done. No more time wasted looking for tools.


Today stopped by the store and got the things I needed to relocate the battery





Need to get the old battery connections organized and tie them into this block.


Also removed the AC , Made a little cover plate

Welding cable isn't the best choice for battery cables. Make sure to keep it away from heat.

My car has a similar piece from the AC getting removed. Thinking about adding it back though.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

alxdgr8 wrote:Welding cable isn't the best choice for battery cables. Make sure to keep it away from heat.

My car has a similar piece from the AC getting removed. Thinking about adding it back though.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Guess I could throw a sleeve over it to shield from the downpipe

I would definitely put some sort of heat shielding on it. I used a bulkhead for my power cable because my megasquirt harnesses go through where the AC used to be on my B3.

DE80q wrote:I would definitely put some sort of heat shielding on it. I used a bulkhead for my power cable because my megasquirt harnesses go through where the AC used to be on my B3.

I am going to use the AC holes for the engine harness and 02 sensor wires I think.

Did a little more today, realized I never did put in the proper tie rod when I had the engine out so I got that taken care of.
This is how everything has come apart on this car. Its been real nice that the PO used never seize everywhere but still most of the stuff has required a little but or coaxing to get out.


Finally. New tie rod end.

Also took of the P/S pump from it's location which wont work with the radiator.

The bracket for picking the head, that also holds the CPS , those bolts I can already tell aren't going to come out. So I don't know if I'll have to weld a nut to them or what.

Wrestled with the car for a bit today, goal was to get this bracket off head, bolts were about to strip and couldn't find any reasonable way to get them out. I wasn't pretty. only had an hour and a half or so, unfortunately most of my time went into that



Anyway got that out. Ate up most of my time. This little piece I got from Hank is probably going to be the best looking part of this engine until it gets rebuilt with rods. I will be doing that eventually but I don't have time to give this car the same attention my coupe is getting if I ever want to finish the coupe.


3B water manifold on


3B intake manifold. I think I have to run the 7A or 3B cover for fitment with the throttle body.




on another note... What is the green stuff, just anodizing on the factory bolts? or some kind of coating that PO put on ?

Green is a factory coating of some sort.

DE80q wrote:Green is a factory coating of some sort.

I'm going to see if I can find out what it is or how to duplicate it because all of the bolts the engine that do have this coating come out so much easier than the ones that don't.

Afterthought wrote:

DE80q wrote:Green is a factory coating of some sort.

I'm going to see if I can find out what it is or how to duplicate it because all of the bolts the engine that do have this coating come out so much easier than the ones that don't.

Did a google search & this is what I came up with:
http://greenkote.com/industries/
Don't know how to duplicate it yet.
Chris

Swapped valve covers today to the 7A- I like the look and it will help with clearance on the 3B intake/throttle body.




I continued on the downpipe, got most of it done. After this section will be one more small piece of pipe and a V-band. Then flex joint and the mid pipe. Maybe get that done tomorrow?


Not Hank welds but they are improving a bit!

Finished my downpipe and started working on the mid pipe. Got a flex joint in there, have about 2 feet left to go a few bends and some hangers and be done with the exhaust.





Landed all my battery connections

Nice welds.

Hey thanks. Most of them I am afraid to show to anyone.
I have been spending more time on fit up and changed some other things. Got some smaller diameter rod which helped a ton. Because in all the spots where the fit-up is not perfect I am often finding myself needing a tiny little but of rod but the huge diameter shit I bought was too much. I am trying to teach myself so it's a steep curve.

Today's project, working on the PCV system trying to clean it up a bit. I'm working on replacing a bunch of stuff with JIC or AN fitting for use with stainless lines. It's probably overkill for the breather system but the stainless lines give me flexibility.
First I took the breather spider thing and cut it down a bit.




These fittings are designed to be brazed on I think. I had to use a die grinder to increase the ID a little because metric shit is all between sizes. Anyway got these to where they slip over after 30 minutes on the grinder , 48 bits later and three pounds of metal dust in my eyes and all my pockets.
[img][img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x413/02s4nogaro/1986%204000/2F759706-6212-431A-A9FB-896A4FB95D92_zpsfqrrisx8.jpg[/img][/img]



I retained the valve in here. So the next step is to figure out where I want to tie into the 7A valve cover .
I saw a post where Varia had some pics of tapping into the same spot where AAN covers have a breather, but on the the back of the 7A . My plan is to weld an aluminum JIC fitting here so my AN fitting can tie right to it. I don't know how to weld aluminum so it should be cool.

Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing this boosting

Dan me too! It is killing me currently not having an Audi to drive but I want to make it right.