The Project Pad

More love!

Rod bolts aren't worth anything with stock rods IMHO, the force that fucks rods is pushing down, not pulling up on the cap.

That said I think you can make 350whp reliably on this setup and it will be aweseome, so carry on

vt10vt wrote:Rod bolts aren't worth anything with stock rods IMHO, the force that fucks rods is pushing down, not pulling up on the cap.

That said I think you can make 350whp reliably on this setup and it will be awesome, so carry on

Javad said pretty much the same thing, but I didn't feel good reusing the original 150k mile + old rod bolts, for $139 shipped I couldn't go wrong... + I got the cool azz "TT" stickers!!

Back from the shop, they sized the big ends for the coated bearings, the machinist said he set them up for 1.5thou of clearance.....
Forgot to get the extra exhaust studs drilled and tapped for the tubular manifold.
I also need the holes drilled for the water manifold....






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looks super clean, but i think you should have drilled the holes for the water manifold before the head was done.

varia wrote:looks super clean, but i think you should have drilled the holes for the water manifold before the head was done.

Thanks!
Yeah the timing was bad, I had the head in the shop, the other shop I contacted about the drilling took way too long to respond, by then, they were doing the valve job...
Who are the guys you use? you think they can do the water manifold holes?

Chris Brydon up in utah done it many times
or im sure Costa Mesa R&D could do it

Just had a valve job done, removed some valves to look at the ports..

How come there's pitting on the backside of the intake valves???

Numero dos,
Should I remove the substantial lip that surrounds the intake valve seat?
Is this normal? Is there a ridge because the seats were cut deep because of wear?
I tried to grind some of the lip off on the left side intake valve, I need to get a smaller bit and use a Dremel.....

normally not a problem unless it occurs on the seats. But i would change it since it out, happens all the time cos those are not stainless steel valves.

and for the head, one of my aan head looked like this. so i think yours sitting a little bit deeper

Did some match porting on the 7a 20v
Before and after action!

After getting new tools and cleaning up the intake runners, I decided to take a crack at porting the intake and exhaust (I didn't use any metal bits or burrs, only sandpaper flap wheels and scotchbrite wheels). I really only wanted to clean up the casting flash, the ports are pretty rough, the exhaust ports are REALLY rough! I also found the exhaust bowls had big divots in them, it looked like someone tried to remove material when the head was manufactured.
It took alot of work to make the ex. ports relatively smooth, smooth transitions on the short side radius, make all surfaces I could reach as smooth as posible.

Exhaust before and after: