The Project Pad

Can reach is different than should be used to reach with repeatability.

Don't forget the tune when preparing your budget! And what should go with it, like EGT monitoring, knock listening, etc.

And, so far, with the exception of mentioning the flywheel and clutch, you're spec'ing out engine parts in boxes that when correctly assembled will make a 1200-1300chp engine on a stand.

So, labour needs to be added in time, dollars, or a combination of both.

Then you need to address the rest of the car.

Cooling, exhaust, driveline, brakes, suspension, etc. If one of these goes wrong when you're exercising the monster engine, your fun will be short-lived.

So, you might as well at least double the cost!

I'd bank on spending $1000 minimum on tuning/dyno time, especially since it seems to uncover issues you didn't realize you had. Then you fix and revisit. Even if you plan to tune yourself.

Wow. Thanks for all the help guys.

I had a family emergency and had to deal with that for the last week. Main thing is everyone is ok.

Once I'm on my laptop, I'll PM a mod to move this to projects.

So I came to a stand still. I need a S wrench for that blasted nut for the downpipe. I tried everything but I can't get it. So I'm buying one and hopefully it'll be here midweek. Now, on to the disconcerting bits.

I thought I'd pull the plugs and see if the noise is truly from the bottom end OR a valve kiss. I just wanted to verify once more before I pulled it.

So I pulled off the coil packs. Hmm. The front and rear bolts were just sitting there. The center 2 were tightened down.


So I noticed a bunch of oil in #5 and #1 spark plug. Pull the VC off. I found this.



Looks like the front bolt snapped off in the head. Looks like they GROUND it flat and didn't center punch the bolt. Then the bit walked to the nice soft aluminum and they the drilled through the side of it. Instead of putting in threads VIA tap, they just rammed a bolt in there.

So I started pulling everything off the front end. The AC had no pressure so I'm thinking the condenser might have a pin hole leak. I pulled the radiator and I'd have to say there's more water than coolant unless this red stuff separates?



I'm at the point of needing to unbolt the mounts, the trans, and the last downpipe nut before pulling it.

BTW, once I figured out how the electrical connectors separated, why hasn't EVERYONE done it that way?! So easy.

Haha I noticed the same thing with the electrical connectors.

It might not work for you, but I'll share what's worked for me with that downpipe bolt. I didn't have to buy anything I didn't already have. I've done it before with either an offset box end wrench, or a ratchet/gear wrench.

Remove the starter. Lie down on your back under the car and look up through the hole where the starter used to be. Finagle your hand in there and use the wrench of your choice (I'd imagine a socket with a universal would also do the trick) and slowly but surely turn that sucker off. Balance the diet of crusty grime that falls in your face with a healthy dose of profanity. Should be off by the time the blood has drained from your arm haha

I doubt the blood will drain from the arms. My last job I would regularly use a Milwaukee splined hammer drill (read: anything needing to go in concrete bigger than 1/2") overhead drilling into precast concrete for wire management. Just before I quit I had a 9 week job that I did nothing but drill for 8 hours at a time, stopping for 2 breaks and a lunch. Another guy came behind me putting up the anchors and another to install the trapeze.

I've broken 1/2" bolts (bolt, not head size) with a 3/8" Stanley ratchet. I've got the power, just no way to harness it. Lol

Two breaks and a lunch, on an 8hr shift? Must be nice... we get two breaks on a 10hr shift up here.

Hope my method works for you, I've never needed any kind of special tool even with some nasty corrosion.

I'll try it tomorrow.

When I worked at Walmart distribution, we had 4-10s with 2 breaks. New job, technically we have 3 but I only take 1. It can be anywhere from 8-13 hours.

12 hours minimum and 28 days a month on average! Come get some!

That doesn't help much with getting downpipe or exhaust manifold bolts off though. Good luck!

Yeah that head work is nice lol. I'm glad my name isn't attached to that. You should be able to see the timesert if you look into the plug hole with a light. If there's no timesert that's not the engine/head that was in it originally.

The more I'm into this, the more I see other peoples finger prints. The bands for the turbo tubing were all loose, I found a couple loose bolts, the trans is missing a bolt I believe on the bottom drivers side....

My theory: they tried grinding the bolt flat to drill. They didn't clean it well. Shavings got caught in the rod bearings.

Sorry there's been no updates. We had 10 days of flu here. First my wife, then my daughter who ended up in the hospital, myself, then my infant. It's just been awful.

Then I picked up a new daily. I had a 07 Outback 2.5i NA. It decided my 740 mile weekly commute wasn't something it wanted to do. The head gasket started leaking profusely and the trans started short shifting, shuttle shifting, chatter the torque converter. I traded it off for a 2014 Cruze diesel. Getting 44mpg is lovely! Thinking about getting it tuned but unsure if I want to right now.

Tomorrow I'll be diving into it more.

2 month update:

Nothing to report. I have been busy with house work, work itself, and trying to decide if I want to unload the car and get back into diesel trucks or go forward.

I am going forward but with a much more realistic and less costly upgrade path. I plan on just throwing in whats needed to get it running, throw the WH1C I have on it (HX35 basically), and saving for 07K swap. I think in the long run, I will be happier while still having fun.

Smart! Do "enough" for now (could even just be a chip, honestly) and save save save... and then spend spend spend! Hopefully Hank has an 07k drop in kit for S cars by the time you're ready.

Long time update...

Got the engine pulled. No bearing for #4... Unlike what I was told, which was it started knocking and he parked it, it was ran a long time without a bearing. To test my theory, I took off #1 cap. That bearing fell right on the crank with a couple thousands gap... So either a new crank or look for a used engine.

Ooof. Yuck. People are awesome. Dad has several engines, but I don't remember where you're located.

chaloux wrote:Ooof. Yuck. People are awesome. Dad has several engines, but I don't remember where you're located.

I'm near Chicago IL.

Seeing how the head is messed up from the valve cover bolt boss, might as well get a long block or head/crank.

I have a new job. $7/HR more than now, 1/2 mile from home instead of 68 miles, and better OT rules. More money, more time. I hope this is done by summer.

It's almost just worth getting a short block rather than a crank by itself unless you need the space. The cost isn't that much different. Glad your job situation is improving. More money AND more time when switching jobs is rare. Onwards and upwards!

Even if I get a short block, I'm getting H-beam rods. So might as well get just the crank.

I have a good aan engine if your interested

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S2 Forum is a dangerous place for ideas

And for your wallet too.

Agreed.

For what it's worth, I like your plan to get it going on the H1C and do the big mods down the road.

Anyone here interested in a torn apart car?