The Project Pad

So I am really digging the turbo / EM setup. Outside of the turbo band it seems to be peppier than before and spool up is definitely below 4k but i will have to do some more driving / logging to get an idea where. Currently limited to 18 - 19 PSI which feels quick already or could it be i haven't driven it in a few months?

Hanks work of art after swain coating.


And putting all the parts in place

Looks awesome Justin...I love my swaintech coating and it has held up perfectly. You will be happy with it.

EDIGREG wrote:Looks awesome Justin...I love my swaintech coating and it has held up perfectly. You will be happy with it.

thanks ED... but unfortunately mine seems much thinner than all of the other pics i have seen. While installing i brushed it up against a braided hose and a few areas rubbed off... you can see one in the pic above the BOV. My turbo housing also is incredibly thin in most areas with area's around the flanges being pretty thick. I am going to call them tomorrow to discuss, personally i shouldn't have installed it but since it took them 5 weeks I really wasn't in the mood for installing this all in the 115 degree heat of June

It is pretty thin stuff, but I feel your concern. It looks freaking amazing Justin. Nice car.

Open Season - So now its time to start thinking of fueling (injectors, fuel rail, etc) So far I am thinking
- Convert fuel lines to -6AN
- Fuel Pressure sensor and ford fuel trim sensor back to VEMS.
- Change out lines in the tank/ relay 044 pump
- Unfortunately most of Mance's fuel rail mod pics are no workie so unless someone has the details or the writeup saved.. plz/thx.
- Suggestions for injectors?? goal is 450 at the wheels on E85.
- Adjustable FPR for stock rail or aftermarket if i go with aftermarket rail.

I love the FIC 1000cc injectors for this app. We can supply them along with a plug and play fuel rail for that injector height for an awesome PNP solution.

New ignition system is almost complete and FPR mounting location


mounted to the stock tabs for the plastic cover

wiring is fresh and clean .. just need to finish the ecu side connectors

This looks REALLY clean... I like it a lot!

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Yeah def jelly. I need a solution like this for my 4k

nice!

Jeez, this car is so freaking clean. Excellent work man, I love it!

Halp! So fuel system is done; obligatory pic below. Having issues getting the car idle tuned. Trying to get a decent idle on the FIC 1100cc injectors which i calculated as a req_fuel of 2.69 but that was so lean I had the idle VE blocks around 138 to make stoich :( once i even get to 1.0 lambda the car runs rough and wont idle. Thoughts ????? i tried tuning the req_fuel to get a 1.0 lambda at an idle VE table of ~100 and that took me up to 3.8. ECO correction is off and fuel pressure is 43.5 PSI

What FPR are you using?

Hmm. Timing numbers in those bottom cells? Go through zeets idle guide. I like to run a little more timing in the bottom left 6 cells, 15 degrees. It helps stabilize idle and doesn't hurt anything.

But there's probably something else going on. You may have to raise the idle rpm with those injectors. They might not like low pulse widths.

Woah, just stumbled up on this build. Fantastic work Justin! Can't wait to see what this does with a good tune!

themagellan wrote:What FPR are you using?

its an Aeromotive compact adjustable

chaloux wrote:Hmm. Timing numbers in those bottom cells? Go through zeets idle guide. I like to run a little more timing in the bottom left 6 cells, 15 degrees. It helps stabilize idle and doesn't hurt anything.
But there's probably something else going on. You may have to raise the idle rpm with those injectors. They might not like low pulse widths.

I can get it to idle but its much more fuel than the req_fuel calculation for these injectors and seems to get worse as rpms rise. puslewidth at idle is around 1.5ms

You should be able to achieve an OE-like idle with those injectors. Can you upload a log for us to look at?

Hi ED, attached is the log. As it warms up I am having to add quite a bit of fuel even at the req_fuel of 3.0 which these injectors should be 2.7.

It has a random miss to it now so its possible i have fouled the plugs wandering from lean to rich. I also bought another fuel pressure gauge and verified the pressure is set to 3bar and FPR is working correctly.

Looking awesome.

Nice quality work right there.

Cheers,

Craig

It looks like you may have a vacuum leak, which is why you see the wandering VE/RPM bouncing up and down. Are the injectors fully seated and sealed on the intake manifold?

Keep in mind that req_fuel is simply a scaler/multiplier.

While you "should" be able to set it to anything, I have run into WEIRD issues where setting the req_fuel value according to the VEMS formula basically prevented the car from being tuned via VE. In the screen shot below you can see no matter how much gain was there the ECU would simply not respond to VE input. Changing the req fuel to a different value "magically" solved this. I've only run into this one time, so maybe it was a firmware bug or something. Point being, use whatever req_fuel works for your car.

EDIGREG wrote:It looks like you may have a vacuum leak, which is why you see the wandering VE/RPM bouncing up and down. Are the injectors fully seated and sealed on the intake manifold?

Keep in mind that req_fuel is simply a scaler/multiplier.

While you "should" be able to set it to anything, I have run into WEIRD issues where setting the req_fuel value according to the VEMS formula basically prevented the car from being tuned via VE. In the screen shot below you can see no matter how much gain was there the ECU would simply not respond to VE input. Changing the req fuel to a different value "magically" solved this. I've only run into this one time, so maybe it was a firmware bug or something. Point being, use whatever req_fuel works for your car.

Thanks ed... I started last night with a req_fuel of 2.8 and it initially ran like a top as the engine warmed up and cold enrichment went away i had to adjust the VE to keep it stoich and ended up in the 130's once warm. Once warm things begin to get difficult to tune (missing, wandering lambda, dying) I am thinking the enrichment for acceleration is not enough as i noticed lambda would go lean during oscillation peaks or when i revved it... I will play around tonight with req_fuel in the mid 3's and test all my vacuum ports. It would be helpful to look a some config setups using these injectors as +700cc is a big jump for me will hit up mark once back from vacation

Best method IMO is to get the car fully up to temp (make sure you're fully out of warmup), tune the car, then adjust the warmup curve as necessary.

You are never getting out of warmup (not until your coolant reaches 95*C at least). Assuming you have a standard AAN 87* thermostat, you should add a row for 87* (or whatever your minimum temp is once fully warmed up) = 100% enrichment (off). Currently it is scaling 10% enrichment from 80*C to 95*C.

Also, using the settings that were provided with my FIC2150 injectors helped a lot (Injector open time, rampup, voltage compensation, and rampup voltage compensation).

JustinB_20vt wrote:question for you experienced welders how many tacks should i make on the vband flange to keep it from warping, i have 4 now and am thinking 8 or 16?

Woah.

Late to chime in here, sorry.

More welding is more heat, always remember that. Once it's on there evenly, weld away.

[quote=IPT's Pipe Trades Handbook by Robert A. Lee]When using a spacer wire, the wire should be removed after the first tack is welded. The second tack weld is made on the opposite side from the rest, 180 degrees opposite. The third tack is made 90 degrees from either the first or second tack. Adjust the gap until the openings are equalized, or if one side of the root opening is slightly wider, then the third tack weld should be placed there. Any shrinkage in the third tack weld will even out the root opening space. The fourth tack weld is placed 180 degrees from the third.[/quote]

On small bore piping (<2") three tacks are used, and on large bore piping tacks are spaced at 4"-6" intervals (100mm - 150mm).


EDIT:

Other thing to keep in mind is that the tack should be about 1.5x the diameter of the gap you're running. Otherwise, no more than 1/8".

Welding procedures aside, your engine bay looks fantastic.

Very interested in details on your turbo inlet pipe.