The Project Pad

SWEEEET! Get some videos up!

Will do! I just wish my camera took better audio. My birthday is coming up on the first of November and I am thinking of getting a nice external microphone or a nice cordless drill or sawzall. The mic would be really nice for making some vids.

I also can't wait to get a clutch in this thing. The launch control is ridiculously awesome with the extra timing pulled and I can make some good boost off the line. With a nice clutch it should light 'em up nicely

F thread/pitch (M14x1.25)
R with interference resistor
5 heat range
D 19mm depth x 17.5mm threaded length x 3mm center electrode to body
T triple electrode
C copper

So the verdict was bad coils and the "wrong" plugs/gapping"?

These 5cyl motors are extremely picky as to which plugs they use. There is even a difference between to 3B and AAN as far as plugs go, and with the 20vt the MC1, MC2, and WX all have their own preference.

P.S. I do not see any anti-seize on that old plug you pulled

BTW I was wondering have you played around w/ tri-electrode copper core, nickel coated plugs?

Anti-seize? I've never needed it before in any head. I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea though.

The verdict is that a cockroach was causing some issues and that there was some sort of a gap issue on the BKR7's. I'm not convinced at all that they cannot be used. There is no way that the engine just doesn't like certain plugs. Of course it can LIKE certain plugs though...its just that I don't see how it can just say ef you to a certain plug when set up right. Either they needed more or less gap. I don't feel like finding out though.

The plugs were in fact what fixed the issue, but thats not to say that the old plugs themselves were to blame. I'll try a brand new set with different gaps one of these days.

I think the 3B and AAN both tend to like the FR5DTC's. They are tri-ground strap copper core, but I don't know if there is a nickel plating. I'm just glad that I have a go-to plug that works.

Here...This should help with plug choice...

BTW, my 7A HATED the platinum +4 version of the F6DTC. It spat them out in a few months.

Attachment ( 23617 ) : bosch number system.gif

thank ya:)

Strange. I never had an issue with those NGK plugs, in fact my engine prefers them. .032 gap. You may need a hotter heat range.

yeah, see I had them at .028. I think it may have been getting blown out. I'll try them at factory (.032) gap next time.

Maybe I'll try BKR6e's if you think hotter is better

Try the gap first, then a hotter plug. You want to go as cool as possible before it starts misfiring.

Here is an encouraging picture for you to finish the suspension project:

Go lower than this guy my young Padawan and you will know the true meaning of the force

Attachment ( 23662 ) : PIC_0040.jpg

holy crap lol I don't know if thats possible. He's got to be bottomed out up front!

You know whats ridiculous? I had the 200 and the 90 next to each other the other day and the 90 at stock height is still lower than my 200 at VERY lowered height lol

Ok I wasnt being fair. This is something a little more "realistic"

Eh, I think I've got that already no problem...its just that I don't have any suspension travel when I'm that low lol.

As soon as I get some parts in the mail from Cary thats all going to change!

loxxrider wrote:Eh, I think I've got that already no problem...its just that I don't have any suspension travel when I'm that low lol.

As soon as I get some parts in the mail from Cary thats all going to change!

I've reading this thread until my face turns blue and I cannot figure out why you do not have suspension travel. My closest guess is that the distance between the top of the strut and the bottom of the upper perch does not allow for a long enough stroke.

yeah...thats exactly whats causing it.

The reason for that is that on top of the A1 perch is the stock upper spring perch. That is there to accommodate the stock strut bearing because I didn't have a better idea at the time...or time to implement it. Now I have the idea and will be implementing it asap.

The new one will allow the top hat to poke through the strut to strut tower mounting plate which is a huge gain in travel. I plan to take measurements of it all the way down now and all the way down after...that should be the difference in travel that I get. I hope what works in my head translates well into real life. It should. If it has less gain in travel than I expected, then I still have a sweet upper mount lol. I just wish I could get it up even higher, but I can't because of hood clearance.

loxxrider wrote:yeah...thats exactly whats causing it.

The reason for that is that on top of the A1 perch is the stock upper spring perch. That is there to accommodate the stock strut bearing because I didn't have a better idea at the time...or time to implement it. Now I have the idea and will be implementing it asap.

The new one will allow the top hat to poke through the strut to strut tower mounting plate which is a huge gain in travel. I plan to take measurements of it all the way down now and all the way down after...that should be the difference in travel that I get. I hope what works in my head translates well into real life. It should. If it has less gain in travel than I expected, then I still have a sweet upper mount lol. I just wish I could get it up even higher, but I can't because of hood clearance.

I am not clear on the new idea either.

If it works will I be able to obtain said fix (and is it going to break the bank)?

Of course you will be able to obtain it...or at least I'll share the drawings with you. I really don't know what they are going to cost. I think the bearings themselves are going to be about $40 a piece though. I have yet to talk to Aurora, but I plan to discuss it at length with them and order one as soon as I get the strut measurement I need.

well I just ordered another top hat (for mock-up) from A1-racing, so thats part of the puzzle

Will be shipping the other pieces of the puzzle shortly (soory man I have been remodeling my shop so I got behind)..

nuugen wrote:Will be shipping the other pieces of the puzzle shortly (soory man I have been remodeling my shop so I got behind)..

cant wait to see what the fix is :-)

Cary, I never asked; are you an Akron Zip?

LOL my son is..

nuugen wrote:LOL my son is..

That's a problem b/c I am a Buffalo Bull, see you Nov 26th on the gridiron :bang:

Sry Chris for the threadjack, but this is very important for the suspension.

No problem Cary, I'm jut thankful for the help

And I don't care Corey. Its already nearly 100 pages...its like a drop in the bucket at this point lol

Hey Chris, do you happen to have the diameter of the strut where the hat/bearing go? It seems I forgot to write it down, and now everything is on the car. Have you found a bearing that you are going to use? I am considering making my own lower profile hats out of steel since they A1 hats are bottoming out on the strut instert retaining nut.