The Project Pad

the german wrote:Looking good!

Yeah... Coast is reallly proud of their mufflers. I've only used them on other people's cars where I wasn't paying for them LOL

They look awesome . Knowing me I'll do something dumb like try to make my own muffler from scratch and spend 2 weekend doing it to come up with some sub-par crap pile that I'm not happy with ha


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You really need a horizontal bandsaw. Keep an eye on CL for a good old used one. I tried the HF but it was crap and needs a day of setup to cut well.

Car is coming along nicely!

Horizontal bandsaw I forgot about those , with the liquid cooling ? That would be nice !
Been trying to clean the shop all week so I can eat organized and run some new air lines and what not so not really and work done .
Got a pump for the car , just a Bosch 044 . Had to make a fitting for it but should work . I'll have to make a bracket for it too



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Afterthought wrote: Knowing me I'll do something dumb like try to make my own muffler from scratch and spend 2 weekend doing it to come up with some sub-par crap pile that I'm not happy with ha

Have you taken a look at magnaflow?

ringbearer wrote:You really need a horizontal bandsaw. Keep an eye on CL for a good old used one. I tried the HF but it was crap and needs a day of setup to cut well.

Car is coming along nicely!

this.

I upgraded last year to a used Jet hyraulic feed wet cut horizontal bandsaw and its night and day difference. the blade is huge compared to the HF saw. 1" blade makes a big difference in the cut rigidity not to mention being able to clamp the parts properly and control the cut speed. paid around $500 for it used. goes for about $2k new.

Yeah 500 would be a hell of a steal!
I've been using this right now and a belt sander which works pretty good. Carbide Tipped blade and I've done a few exhaust with it



Still doing the exhaustive task of spring cleaning my shop and trying to organize .
This is a rare bird (one of 300 something ever I think ?) but It got moved outside in favor of quattros

Forgot about some of the other projects .
Shop truck going to be going together soon, Got the frame sandblasted and coilovers for it , need the space to lay it out and box the frame then maybe do an LS or 5.3 or something cool with standalone .

I got a Wellsaw 58B made in 1959, I've got about $500 into it. They still make it today in the states but it's $2500 or so. When you call for parts a really nice lady answers the phone and knows everything there is to know about your saw. I love old fashioned customer service and quality parts

That shop truck is going to be awesome.

Yeah and don't paint the drivers door!

shop truck needs an ls single turbo.

A friend of a friend just went over 1000whp and 9.7 with stock 6.0 LS!! Only internal mods are camshaft. Even has used headgaskets and bolts.

dana wrote:shop truck needs an ls single turbo. ]

The only reason I was thinking maybe 5.3 instead of 6.0 LS is because the price of the 5.3 is so dang cheap that if I blow it up it's $300 for another one at a junk yard. They are so common

ringbearer wrote:Yeah and don't paint the drivers door!

Yeah ha , I have a couple with doors like that. One from a construction company , the American oil one I went to a hell of a lot of trouble to dig that one out just because of that door. I think my grandfather salvaged that truck from a junkyard.
Here is one of the other ones. I couldn't pay somebody to buy this thing though, it's interesting . I have had it up for $500 for months and not a single bite . I always thought the door and stuff was cool.


Much different than working on Audi kind of refreshing for a change . I got this thing to run In about an hours time just to verify the engine was good .

Soon I'll probably start a thread for he shop truck some day I'm looking forward to working on it just have other projects ( URQ ) that I need to make headway on first.

Im finally just about finished cleaning the shop and one bonus is i think I have found the proper sump tube to go with my 7A pan. I think it's the one on the right .

Started some things today.
Swapped to the proper oil pan.

Nice clean 7A pan thanks to the Harbor Freight soda blaster




Started cleaning up the radiator. I need to find a solution to replace these little flappers. Can't tell if this was rubber or foam?



Found a grommet that works (just under 1.5") I saved the part number somewhere . Had to feed these connectors through one wire at a time .

Redid some little details like new wires and connector for the brake reservoir level thingy. I was able to get a good shape factory one to use .



Now starting to get everything laid out in the engine bay and figure out what I need and what can go now that the WX is gone

Those flaps for the radiator fan shroud should be rubber. At least on the B3 they are.

I should have intact flaps as I went to the RS2 fan/shroud. Shoot me a PM if you want me to check storage.

Mentosman42 wrote:I should have intact flaps as I went to the RS2 fan/shroud. Shoot me a PM if you want me to check storage.

Thank you for the offer. I figured I would look through my shop first and actually found something that should work well- from a '90 CQ .
I

Plastic instead of metal so it is lighter and easier to work with and the rubber is in great shape .



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Cleaning up some wiring fixes that someone had done over the years and getting things sorted out where they go in the engine bay



Added 02 sensor bung


One of he next things to do is figure out this monstrosity . I'm going to Vent the valve cover and the block , but do I need the check valve ? Does it need to tie back into the intake ? Or can I just go straight to the catch can and any positive pressure will go that direction

With a catch can I used the maf boot and intake manifold as vac source. Intake manifold line gets a check valve to stop boost from pressurizing the can and the maf line gets the pressure regulating valve. If you want to keep the evap(n80) system you can just copy the diagram with a tee off of the intake manifold line to the purge valve. With the 7a valve cover your going to need to weld a port on(I put a little hood on the underside as well, dont know if it was necessary). I found an aluminium bung on summitracing that was NPT and worked well.

Wiring cleaned up


Not a lot happened on the car recently but some little stuff here and there.
Got the lines sorted today for the brakes. Now have stainless lines front and rear.
Ended up needing a male-male adapter from "Fedhill" to get the brakes hooked up in the rear/



THis is the fed hill adapter in the end of the line


Before


After

Few other odds and ends .
I have my harness now - so glad I sourced this one out because I got a top notch product that i couldn't have made for a more than fair price
Leaves me more than enough room in the interior wherever I want to mount my Econoseal ECU




Need to sort out the firewall . I'm afraid I might have wasted a good set of AN fittings because I think I should have cut them fuel lines shorter, they're taking up valuable firewall space now :( may have to cut them shorter and put the fittings down lower .



Going to have to try and figure out where to lay everything out . My LS2 coil bracket takes up space. Also need space for my connectors for flywheel sensors, etc.

Started cleaning up what I think I may need part of , the brackets to mount ALt. And power steering . Planning to have a set up that looks much like Highlander's


Other goodies

Got some fittings


Got a breather tapped into the valve cover hopefully it won't stick up too tall or I will have to find a tighter radius AN fitting if that even exists.

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Starting to worry about the hood closing because of that breather fitting and more importantly the intake manifold. Hopefully no problems there .


Worked a little on the ps pump mounting. Using this bracket for the pump, don't know where it's from , 4000 maybe ?

Well I've run into the first of hopefully not too many fitment issues I've caused myself by running a rare manifold that I've never seen used anywhere.

I see that the desired orientation of the injectors looks like they should be rotated perpendicular to the fuel rail (so connectors pointed out towards the valve cover) This won't work for me because of the angle of the injectors on this particular manifold , it puts them so close that they hit the head.


Injector hitting head


Injectors seated all the way and bolt holes lined up but connectors not plugged in-


With connectors in but rail is not quite seated fully




The only way I can see this working is if the injector connectors are under the fuel rail In which case I would have to notch the fuel rail out possibly to allow room for the injector plugs. It fits that way now but just won't quite snug down all the way. I looks like If I was to do that It would allow me the necessary space to get the bolts through and bolt the rail down- but i want to be extra sure that's the option before I damage anything to this really nice rail I just got.

thats pretty terrible rail placement.

if it solves your connundrum I can swap you out for standard ev1 style injectors and you can re-connector the 5 plugs on the harness. let me know.

Marc wrote:thats pretty terrible rail placement.

if it solves your connundrum I can swap you out for standard ev1 style injectors and you can re-connector the 5 plugs on the harness. let me know.

Thanks Marc. So I don't know what you call them but those little metal cups that go on top of the injector and into the rail are actually helping me.
I pulled a set of AAN stock injectors from a stash and tried them and the fitment is even worse . They are so wide - the injector body, that it hits the head there . And the dimensions are the same or similar from the top of the injector to the plug so it is still hitting there. The length between the top of the injector plug and the rail is what's helping me out with the EV14's.
I think I've got an idea for how I can solve it just will take a little help. I'll bet by the end of the weekend I have a plan .

Only get about an hour a day to work on the car but have a few more things done now .
Coil bracket mounted .




Screwed around with fitment . I have a few different brackets I have that will work . The smallest one is probably the best. This will work for the alternator or can be used for the PS pump with spacers .
So one of the options I have may be run the biggest side mount IC I can get , locate the PS pump in the stockish 3B/4000 location , alternator below it .
Ps pump or alternator potential location 1; if I run the power steering here the alternator , goes on the other side .



Where the Alternator also could go , passenger side attached to snub mount .

Option 3 , figure out how to run the electric MR2 power steering pump I have stashed