The Project Pad

Okay so the window goes up and down, but it's only going up on one side.

Dang. Yeah I stripped one of mine on the driver's side and drilled it out. Good thing there is a black B4 at the local pic n pull. Got stung by a bee during the whole thing too. Might have to go back for the door too as there is still a broken bolt so only one bolt is holding the mirror on at this point. Good luck with it!

Figured out the window going up and down on one side issue. I don't understand how to adjust the window, it's perfect on the tall side, but the shorter side is off by a smidgen.

My mirror doesn't adjust up or down, just side to side...

My speedo bounces or dies and comes back and ten dies again.

Third gear grinds even when I don't shift fast.

The door card I have is incorrect. It doesn't line up with the bottom of the dash... And the pocket is different.

I need a new drivers door arm rest, and te brackets the hold the top part on. My door switches don't light up as well.

When I step on the brakes, the car gets all squirrelly. Like I step on the brakes and the car will lurche or sway left and right. Kinda scary on the highway when driving next to a wall.

This car needs window tint with heat reflection really bad, it's sooooo bright.


My shift boot is crackled and makes crunchy noises.


I don't want to take the back of the car apart to replace the speakers.

Window height adjusts with a screw. One on each rail. Door card must be removed to do this.

Mirror issue is likely your switch being dirty.

Spedo could be a signal issue from bad sensor,or wiring. Less likely the spedo.

You need to replace the syncro, or the trans. This you know.

Service your brakes asap. Pull them apart and lube sliders. Check your ball joints, lca bushings for play.

Ill send you my old shift boot in the package as well. I dont need it.

Stop looking at what you need to to do as a daunting task. Its not so bad. Just keep plugging away at it and it will be done before you know it. It could be worse, you could be working graves on top of it all like me.

Listen to scubadave, he is right. Just take care of one thing at a time and before you know it you will be done. Most of your "problems" are minor lack of maintence items.

On the note of working graves , I know the feeling. Been on nights now for over 6 years. It can be interesting to get things done when you sleep most of the daylight away.

scubadave wrote:Stop looking at what you need to to do as a daunting task. Its not so bad. Just keep plugging away at it and it will be done before you know it.

^This... when I first got my 90Q it was a continuous project that I was under EVERY weekend (and some weeknights), wife person was not amused. There were a number of times I went "jeez, will it EVER end???", but of course it did and now I enjoy driving the car every day and having people look at it and go "THAT has 257,000 miles on it?!?!". Keep picking away at the issues and you'l get it done.

All easy fixes! As everyone has said, just fix one at a time and enjoy the improvement process. Problem solving can be super satisfying when you figure things out. Just take your time and try not to get frustrated!

Check your rear subframe and mounts.

Kuma85 wrote:My speedo bounces or dies and comes back and ten dies again.

Most likely the printed circuit in the I pack, Hve replaced a few for that, usually you can press on a corner of the cluster and it will come back to life.

Just frustrated. I want this car to run correctly. I feel like the car is less responsive, as in I need to fix the exhaust leak to accommodate te lack of back pressure??? Maybe I'm wrong? I've only driven turbo Audi for the longest and it jus doesn't feel peppy. I think I want to get a 3b motor and a 6 speed trans. I hate how I'm in fifth gear at 4000 RPM at 80MPH. I want it to have a sixth gear and the RPMs to float back down to 3000 or something.

scubadave wrote:Window height adjusts with a screw. One on each rail. Door card must be removed to do this.

Mirror issue is likely your switch being dirty.

Spedo could be a signal issue from bad sensor,or wiring. Less likely the spedo.

You need to replace the syncro, or the trans. This you know.

Service your brakes asap. Pull them apart and lube sliders. Check your ball joints, lca bushings for play.

Ill send you my old shift boot in the package as well. I dont need it.

Stop looking at what you need to to do as a daunting task. Its not so bad. Just keep plugging away at it and it will be done before you know it. It could be worse, you could be working graves on top of it all like me.

I know I need to replace my bomb. I have a good used one from Joe. The door cards I think are from a Cabrio? Instead of the pocket that is tall on the drivers side it's level like the passenger side. I will check the mirror connection when I get to work.
How do I replace a synchro? Is it expensive? Or difficult? I think I can do my control arms and my bushings on my own, as I have been working on some cars this week at work where I've had to do it a few times. It's actually easier than I anticipated.

ur20v wrote:Check your rear subframe and mounts.

What am I looking for?

rally3 wrote:

Kuma85 wrote:My speedo bounces or dies and comes back and ten dies again.

Most likely the printed circuit in the I pack, Hve replaced a few for that, usually you can press on a corner of the cluster and it will come back to life.

If I flick the cluster it will pop back but occasionally that doesn't work.

Thanks do much for the help guys. I appreciate it very much.

cq door panels are asymmetric, diver and passenger side has different pockets.

If you have cabriolet door panels:
1., they wont line up wit the dash perfectly
2., post a few pictures, im after a nice cabriolet door panels. I have excellent CQ door panels, black or cash.

Kuma85 wrote:Just frustrated. I want this car to run correctly. I feel like the car is less responsive, as in I need to fix the exhaust leak to accommodate te lack of back pressure??? Maybe I'm wrong? I've only driven turbo Audi for the longest and it jus doesn't feel peppy. I think I want to get a 3b motor and a 6 speed trans. I hate how I'm in fifth gear at 4000 RPM at 80MPH. I want it to have a sixth gear and the RPMs to float back down to 3000 or something.

Cheapest solution is to get a trans from a 90 sedan. 01A with a taller 5th, drops right in.

That being said, I drove my '91 to MT and UT and back amongst other places, for hours on end at 80+ mph with stock CQ ratios. Didn't complain a bit and still got 25-27 mpg with a couple guys and ski gear in it. The transmission probably shouldn't be on the top of your list just yet, it'll be fine until all the rest of the items are fixed. Just my thoughts anyway, and good luck.

the factory set The RPM's are that high to keep the motor in the optimal powerband on the freeway. (according to an Audi engineer that I spoke to at our shop in the early 90's)

You crack me up man, yes 20v r lots slower than a 20vt, they can be fast but you will need to rev the piss out of it, and make shore not to use brakes much to keep the momentum going, as stated above cheapest solution for transmission is 20V 90Q one, AKU code, it actually makes cruise lot more comfortable, and they go for around 250$. On your suspension stuff, most likely it is 100% junk, that said check shocks, upper mounts, sub frame and control arm bushings, ball joints, tire roods for looseness, most likely just will end up replacing all of that. Check sub frames for cracks, engine, transmission, rear end mounts. Stuff is relatively cheep, just a lot of work to replace all that. Keep your cool, it will be nice when all will be sorted.

I thought I had to change a synchro on my trans due to a grind from 1st to 2nd. Finally I swapped the trans fluid - what do I have to lose right? It completely fixed the problem. It never grinded again.

I used MOTUL Motylgear 75W90

make sure you buy extra plugs ahead of time - I stripped mine and theyre cheap.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/9080/msgs/27209.phtml

Just make sure you remove the fill plug before the drain plugs. Just to make sure you can fill it up after you drain it all out...

My CQ had a rear control arm bolt loosen up that allowed the one side of the DS rear control arm to shift under braking. It would cause the car to pitch left a bit and felt a bit unsettling. You likely have worn out lower suspension components or a control arm or subframe is loose.

pilihp2 wrote:Just make sure you remove the fill plug before the drain plugs. Just to make sure you can fill it up after you drain it all out...

:stupid:

Good advice

Kuma85 wrote:

ur20v wrote:Check your rear subframe and mounts.

What am I looking for?

Trashed diff and subframe mounts, broken subframe. My very first CQ had bad rear subframe mounts and the rear end would undulate at speed going around bends. I nearly shit myself the first time I took a big sweeper at 90 MPH, I seriously thought I was going to die.

My most recent CQ has a completely broken rear subframe, but I only drove it about 3 miles total at 35 MPH

Kuma85 wrote:Just frustrated. I want this car to run correctly. I feel like the car is less responsive, as in I need to fix the exhaust leak to accommodate te lack of back pressure??? Maybe I'm wrong? I've only driven turbo Audi for the longest and it jus doesn't feel peppy. I think I want to get a 3b motor and a 6 speed trans. I hate how I'm in fifth gear at 4000 RPM at 80MPH. I want it to have a sixth gear and the RPMs to float back down to 3000 or something.

How are the knock sensors? 6th gear isn't going to get you from 4k to 3k, FYI.

What are the rpm differences in 5th at 80mph between the CQ and sedan 01A?