The Project Pad

zerb wrote:

speeding-g60 wrote: my wife could drive it

say it aint so.

id rather see chubs drive it

in time im sure he will

hey aaron, were you talking about somethign like trying to use cast c-arms in the back or soemthign liek that?

already did it.

go back one page.

my wife could drive it

Don't do it. I just got someone convinced that my TT is fast and now you want to go and ruin that. :wink:

hahaha. yeah, she (my wife) stalled your TT at the very first stop sign LOL. then she had FUN

speeding-g60 wrote:already did it.

go back one page.

checking




ok cool, so they are cast front cq arms right?

B3 20v. same thing right?

soooooo. i made this radius rod for the new turbo brace. today i made that happen. just some flexible type support to help hold up the turbo. people usually do it from over the top but this turbo has no bolts to bolt it to.... and this was easy.

Mann filters ftw!

looks good to me. What are we waiting on to run again?

reassemble the motor.

new machinist. took 10/10 off the crank and he took the .5mm taper out of the bore..... did a fantastic job on the bores.... Plateau brush finish equals one dyno pull and rings are seated/broken in. period.

all parts should be in the mail. new rods, Total Seal gapless rings this time, new main and rod bearings, headgaskets ( i get in sets of two LOL)

picked up the block, crank, pistons etc last week. now to get Joey to find the time to reassemble. then i gotta get it aligned again. then i gotta find the time to finish the tuning. then i just gotta run it.

all this little stuff i am doing to it, is because i am bored bored bored!!!!! and there is alot of time i dont do anything at all to it.

and that is a Diesel MANN filter, the big one with more capacity.

zerb wrote:Mann filters ftw!

Word!

so this is over on Hanks thread, as thats where the conversation started....

but a lil home-fab. stiffer shift detent for the side shift action on the 01E. JHM sells this for $80 beans..... and its not that i cant afford it but i am the type of guy that would waste $120 worth of time/labor/material to make an $80 part just to know how and why it works that and i am bored here.

anyhow, here it is....

so i lopped the top off. and drilled it out. and threaded it for 1/2" NPT.

i am making mine tunable, by using a 1/2" x 3/8" bushing, then a 3/8" plug with two nuts for now to add resistance. sometime this week i will find a longer stronger spring.

took all of 10 minutes to figure out. there is a spring, a cap, and a needle bearing inside.

its a 27mm, BTW.





and then i did some playing, and its MUCH stiffer.

i put a longer bolt in it, then threaded on 3 nuts. the head of the SHCS goes inside the plug. i will find a solid plug later, like an allen one. this one is a square head one and its hollow inside. i even have to pre-load it to get it to start the plug in.

remember i am just dinkin here with stuff layin around thats easy to play with.

and this one here, its MUCH firmer like i said.....

and in action

and its not that i cant afford it but i am the type of guy that would waste $120 worth of time/labor/material to make an $80 part just to know how and why it works that and i am bored here.

That is soooooo me. Do it cheaper than the shop if you don't count the $1000 in $.20/hr labor.





That looks like it could have saved a motor. :( Nice upgrade!!

its possible. live n learn

i also made a side gate to block out 5-6 gears as well.

my new shifting theory is thus; instead of upsidedown N (normal H pattern) i am going to preload to the right towards the passenger side while in 2nd gear. then when i shift 2-3 its straight forward. it will ride along the plate i made, and cant go 5th by accident. so instead of H it will be like a U.

seems to be working ok for my FWD buds when they tried this out a month ago or so.

So I got the solid linkage and you got the stiffer detent spring figured out. Lol. And if I do say so myself, our versions look better. 8)

how does the shifter go to the right while in 2nd gear?

would making something like this work possibly? with a spring to make it go center?


at least that's how i picture it in my mind.

My shifter in my TT has a kit installed that makes it want to be in the center really bad. I can complete fairly quick, safe shifts by just riding it along the left for 1st-2nd, then just up and it automatically goes to 3rd, then down for 4th.

Then again my TT is a 13's car, vs yours is going to be in the 8's

dog box will be safest though. how long will a dog box last with that much power you think? Seems like the gears would ware faster seeing they're straight cut.

Frosty, thats what i have done. notice the plate in the pic above, it is essentially blocking the ability to hit 5-6 gears.

and that is exactly what i did in the last (dark) video. a U shaped shift pattern instead of an upside down N.

1 straight back to 2. and while still in 2, push straight over to the right. when 2-3 shift, go straight forward. it goes right into 3rd gear.
then pull for 4th like normal.

do this as a test.

get out on the highway. then try to shift out of gear while the car is under load. you really cant unless you FORCE/POWER IT OUT HARD!!!!! so to preload the shift, push it over to the right, and when it comes time to go 2 - 3, its lined up and ready to go once you release the load EVEN SLIGHTLY.

watch some of my videos, the inside ones, on my youtube page. some shifts i am shifting even as i push in the clutch already half thru the motions of the shift. some are just SPOT ON!!!! (luck mostly LOL)

once or twice i am starting my shift before its even fully ready to shift. the gear is still engaged while loaded by the engine, just the shifter that has play..

and that is what doing that mod to the detent does, pushed it back to the 3-4 gate HARD!

frostyflax17 wrote:...how long will a dog box last with that much power you think? Seems like the gears would ware faster seeing they're straight cut.

Actually straight cut are stronger and hold more power. They have greater gear contact area and very little side load for less wear. They are very noisy, too loud for a production car.


Cool shifter mod!

good deal, had no idea what pre-loading the shit was. where can i learn more about that? I like knowing how things work haha

i'll have to try that out tomorrow... 01A... I must break you.

I know straight cut can hold more power, and i personally LOVE that whining sound haha.

I just thought they were only good for a certain amount of miles from all the hard shifts, does it use regular synchros?

how's the race trailer coming along aaron?

No syncros, just dogs to get the gears started. Like on a motorcycle gearbox.

That's how I was taught to shift- before going to the next gear, apply some slight pressure in the direction you want to go, when you lift off the throttle, the shifter starts to move, then you poke the clutch a bit and it slides in the next gear like magic. Works for normal street driving too, when racing it just happens a lot faster.

Actually I've found that is the secret to shifting without a clutch as well, the pre-load trick. The box in my Scirocco was so tight and had solid linkage, I could daily drive it all day long and only use the clutch to start in 1st.

Brendan