The Project Pad

speeding-g60 wrote:Shannon was driving.

piston has contact with head on cyl 4. dunno the extent. wrist pin or piston broken most likely.

dunno how, either as it had not even yet begun to be pushed.

this shit has to stop sometime.

whoever it is that has a car-voodoo doll of this car please kindly go away now.

/update

Damn that sucks, doubt it’s a piston or wrist pin, look at the rod bearings or rood bolts :( :(

rod bolts are ARP New Age 625's. no freakin way those can be bad this soon. no way. torqued 3 times, tight/loose/tight/loose/tight/loose torqued. per directions.

never went higher than 23 psi. did pull 8500 rpm i think, but still cant see them to be an issue.

rod bearings.... still cant see it. .0015 on the plastigage. coated ACL/Calico bearing set.

will know more when Joey takes it apart. i just pulled the motor and dropped it off, let the more experienced do the investigating.

but man this sorely puts a damper on my drive to continue.... i just cant seem to win at all. (ADHD thoughts drift to domestics.... HAHA)

and the other part is that the machine shop fitted EVERYTHING when they had all the parts. everything specs out.

will see soon enough, Joey is very very motivated to make this thing back into a driver.... just that he will have to do it after hours as he owns/manages/runs his shop full time. and turns wrench in the bays as well as tech stuff and customer service. so he is always a busy guy.

Damn arron this sucks, when i built my bottem end the only thing i measured was the piston rings. Everything else i just put together, held over 2k of street driving with mostly at 9200rpm hitting the rev limiter daily.. When i parted it, i sold the block and still zero problems. Never touched the mains stock engine with 40k, just IE rods and mahle 9.0 pistons... Either something is not measured right or someone didnt put it together right

speeding-g60 wrote:rod bolts are ARP New Age 625's. no freakin way those can be bad this soon. no way. torqued 3 times, tight/loose/tight/loose/tight/loose torqued. per directions.

never went higher than 23 psi. did pull 8500 rpm i think, but still cant see them to be an issue.

rod bearings.... still cant see it. .0015 on the plastigage. coated ACL/Calico bearing set.

will know more when Joey takes it apart. i just pulled the motor and dropped it off, let the more experienced do the investigating.

but man this sorely puts a damper on my drive to continue.... i just cant seem to win at all. (ADHD thoughts drift to domestics.... HAHA)

and the other part is that the machine shop fitted EVERYTHING when they had all the parts. everything specs out.
will see soon enough, Joey is very very motivated to make this thing back into a driver.... just that he will have to do it after hours as he owns/manages/runs his shop full time. and turns wrench in the bays as well as tech stuff and customer service. so he is always a busy guy.

that’s what im saying man you barely started to push that thing, I doubt it broke piston or wrist pin, time wise you pushed big time, and we do make mistakes ( I mean people) I have seen spun rood bearing resulting to touch head 6 times, and it did make a hell owe racket.
And really fast domestic dream on, I do know two mustang owners first one is trying get low 7ns build has gone over 150kU$ (don’t get me wrong car is cool as shit, but every time that thing blows up 20k buys you nothing) LOL, another one did run 9.63@140 once, (kind of full interior), has not made it back out in a two years, I think he paid around 20k when car ran mid 10ns now mark has more that that in it and has not raced yet

Hmm dude I've no clue whats going on.... it's just not right.
Really sounds like one of the parts had to be out of tolerance or defective.

will know when i know, and then you'll know, as always. per the usual

fasterthenrs2 wrote:

speeding-g60 wrote:rod bolts are ARP New Age 625's. no freakin way those can be bad this soon. no way. torqued 3 times, tight/loose/tight/loose/tight/loose torqued. per directions.

never went higher than 23 psi. did pull 8500 rpm i think, but still cant see them to be an issue.

rod bearings.... still cant see it. .0015 on the plastigage. coated ACL/Calico bearing set.

will know more when Joey takes it apart. i just pulled the motor and dropped it off, let the more experienced do the investigating.

but man this sorely puts a damper on my drive to continue.... i just cant seem to win at all. (ADHD thoughts drift to domestics.... HAHA)

and the other part is that the machine shop fitted EVERYTHING when they had all the parts. everything specs out.
will see soon enough, Joey is very very motivated to make this thing back into a driver.... just that he will have to do it after hours as he owns/manages/runs his shop full time. and turns wrench in the bays as well as tech stuff and customer service. so he is always a busy guy.

that’s what im saying man you barely started to push that thing, I doubt it broke piston or wrist pin, time wise you pushed big time, and we do make mistakes ( I mean people) I have seen spun rood bearing resulting to touch head 6 times, and it did make a hell owe racket.
And really fast domestic dream on, I do know two mustang owners first one is trying get low 7ns build has gone over 150kU$ (don’t get me wrong car is cool as shit, but every time that thing blows up 20k buys you nothing) LOL, another one did run 9.63@140 once, (kind of full interior), has not made it back out in a two years, I think he paid around 20k when car ran mid 10ns now mark has more that that in it and has not raced yet

But ye

Theres a local mustang convertible 2004 i think, built auto trans, stock block, simple T70 turbo kit, slicks doesnt seem like he has that much in it. But when this mofo launched it was insane high 8sec car

O2VW1.8T wrote:

fasterthenrs2 wrote:

speeding-g60 wrote:rod bolts are ARP New Age 625's. no freakin way those can be bad this soon. no way. torqued 3 times, tight/loose/tight/loose/tight/loose torqued. per directions.

never went higher than 23 psi. did pull 8500 rpm i think, but still cant see them to be an issue.

rod bearings.... still cant see it. .0015 on the plastigage. coated ACL/Calico bearing set.

will know more when Joey takes it apart. i just pulled the motor and dropped it off, let the more experienced do the investigating.

but man this sorely puts a damper on my drive to continue.... i just cant seem to win at all. (ADHD thoughts drift to domestics.... HAHA)

and the other part is that the machine shop fitted EVERYTHING when they had all the parts. everything specs out.
will see soon enough, Joey is very very motivated to make this thing back into a driver.... just that he will have to do it after hours as he owns/manages/runs his shop full time. and turns wrench in the bays as well as tech stuff and customer service. so he is always a busy guy.

that’s what im saying man you barely started to push that thing, I doubt it broke piston or wrist pin, time wise you pushed big time, and we do make mistakes ( I mean people) I have seen spun rood bearing resulting to touch head 6 times, and it did make a hell owe racket.
And really fast domestic dream on, I do know two mustang owners first one is trying get low 7ns build has gone over 150kU$ (don’t get me wrong car is cool as shit, but every time that thing blows up 20k buys you nothing) LOL, another one did run 9.63@140 once, (kind of full interior), has not made it back out in a two years, I think he paid around 20k when car ran mid 10ns now mark has more that that in it and has not raced yet

But ye

Theres a local mustang convertible 2004 i think, built auto trans, stock block, simple T70 turbo kit, slicks doesnt seem like he has that much in it. But when this mofo launched it was insane high 8sec car

just ask him ;D

O2VW1.8T wrote:Damn arron this sucks, when i built my bottem end the only thing i measured was the piston rings. Everything else i just put together, held over 2k of street driving with mostly at 9200rpm hitting the rev limiter daily.. When i parted it, i sold the block and still zero problems. Never touched the mains stock engine with 40k, just IE rods and mahle 9.0 pistons... Either something is not measured right or someone didnt put it together right

its always wild to see the way people build motors and how long they last, the power they make, etc to others. Im not saying what you did was wrong at all Pete, its just wild that you only did that with your motor, you for all intents and purposes beat the living fiddle sticks out of it when you had it, and it ran like a top. then you get guys like aaron, and myself although my motor still isnt completely together, that triple check and quad check each and every detail, loose sleep over the fact that you MAY have not torqued and re torqued one main stud properly, then shit like this happens. makes ya wonder.

ive always wanted to work in different machine shops and see how other people operate on a daily basis, thatd be interesting to see who does what and how it all works, or doesnt.

What kind of pistons are you running? I have seen some on the motorcycle side of things where companies changed the silcone aluminum alloy content to much and they became to soft... For instance I had a Vertex piston in my KX 250. When I put the bike together with that piston it ran great but made a real strange growling rattle kinda like detonation but everything looked fine. I raced it 3 or 4 times and decided to pull it back down. When I did the piston pin was so damn loose I could damn near wiggle it in the pin bore! Found my noise and also my Wiseco catolog to order somthing better! Just a thought check out the pin bore with a bore gauge if he has one small enough. Good luck hope you find the source of your problem.

zerb wrote:

O2VW1.8T wrote:Damn arron this sucks, when i built my bottem end the only thing i measured was the piston rings. Everything else i just put together, held over 2k of street driving with mostly at 9200rpm hitting the rev limiter daily.. When i parted it, i sold the block and still zero problems. Never touched the mains stock engine with 40k, just IE rods and mahle 9.0 pistons... Either something is not measured right or someone didnt put it together right

its always wild to see the way people build motors and how long they last, the power they make, etc to others. Im not saying what you did was wrong at all Pete, its just wild that you only did that with your motor, you for all intents and purposes beat the living fiddle sticks out of it when you had it, and it ran like a top. then you get guys like aaron, and myself although my motor still isnt completely together, that triple check and quad check each and every detail, loose sleep over the fact that you MAY have not torqued and re torqued one main stud properly, then shit like this happens. makes ya wonder.

ive always wanted to work in different machine shops and see how other people operate on a daily basis, thatd be interesting to see who does what and how it all works, or doesnt.

No i agree lots of people build it different, The only thing i had done by someone else was the head a local guy installed the valves and guides and sent it to bobq for cams and lifter install. Took my stock block honed it with a ball hone and thats it, I wanted it simple cause i blew my other built block that was bored to 82mm when i dropped a valve... Thats when i didnt want to spend that much money anymore.

about the whole domestic thing...

I have a cousin with a CONSISTENT mid 8-sec turbo foxbody and he built it for $25k in his garage.

BUT I don't want to see you give up just yet Aaron. Gotta get to the bottom of this crap.

Damnit, Aaron better not give up! Not after his booth looked so bad ass. By far the best looking at the show!





This thing is way to awesome to give up on now!

:stupid:

rod bearing.

caught in time i think.

rods and bearings are being sent out.

block and crank are at new machine shop, this guy does the motors for HPF (HorsePowerFreaks) 1000WHP+ BMW street cars. but it looks like its ok in prelims.

still do not know why though.... Brian is a smart guy..... he will let us know when he checks things over....

still gotta find the guy with the voodoo car doll, kick him swiftly in the jewels and kindly "ask" him to desist with his shenanigans. LOL

Glad this might turn out to be not too serious...well, to the point I guess. Taking it apart and putting back together is still no fun..

GL!

its gotta be a fluke thing, that rod will have to be rebored too.
PS I'm gonna force the pins out with shear will power

pins???

new rods/bearings are on the way..... not messin around. new rod bolts as well. just need to check and get the right sized bearing for rod journal #4.

Any clues why it spun???

I've had enough mysterious mechanics for one weekend :(

fasterthenrs2 wrote:Any clues why it spun???

nope.

Toxcheap wrote:I've had enough mysterious mechanics for one weekend :(

me, had enough for one project but no, really this one is a head scratcher.... the first two, well that could be a few things... that last one, obvious. this one, not so clear....

on other news, i am working out my cast rear control arms..... just gonna take a few $$$ in 034 parts. but i have it down to i think i can get offset subframe bushings to return the wheel forward to where it needs to be in the well and then slot the rear diff mounts to put it back where it needs to go for driveshaft length.

its more of an issue now, due to the craptastical way the 2-bolt rear ball joints handle high AWHP launching and stuff. Janis, you know what i mean, what with re-alignment after every track day. stuffs getting old, that.

What kind of oil are you using? A friend that raced offroad buggies had some issues with oil and spinning rod bearings after each race. They started using Hyper Lube with the Kendal oil he was running. Never had an issue again after using the additive. Also its a non synthetic so it will not affect your break in process. Synthetic oils are just to slick and wont let the rings and bearings run in properly.

PS I'm gonna force the pins out with shear will power

pins???

Yea.....out of the voodoo doll.

Spinning a bearing after using good quality new parts and double checking along the way, seem a fluke to me. I hope you can come up with some answers and move on. Good luck

AHHHHHHH..... the pins..... now i gotcha. Jedi mind tricks.

sorry, i had wrist pins on the mind i guess.

i hope it gets back together in orderly fashion.

and racerguy; i used Delo 400 with a pint of Hughes extreme pressure additive for the initial startup and run in, heat cycle, etc. drop that, and then put in Synthetic 10w30 and new filter. will be doing some 20w50 synthetic next time, after the initial startup on Delo....

If your up to it try the hyper lube http://hyperlube.com/ I can also get specialty Lucas Racing oils as well through Troy Lee.