The Project Pad

I'm not saying it can't run in high pressure, but flow drops dramatically. What is a CIS pump, an 040?

On T44's it's an 040 or the pierburg replacement. On a 4k I'm pretty sure it's close to an 040 but I'm not sure if it flows identical to the 040

I'm thinking I'll double them up when the EFI gets thrown on. I have an extra pump that I can throw inline to keep the flow up

AngryTaco wrote:My stock fuel pump is running over 120psi right now on the CIS system. Then again, I think the most fuel being allowed to move is a total of 660cc/min due to the fuel dizzy being the limiting factor

Yeah, 6bar fuel pressure is unnecessary and would be way harder/impossible to achieve than running properly sized injectors and pump.

What you're missing is the difference between pressure and flow. For instance, a Walbro 400lph can push 120psi, but at that pressure it's only going to flow 50lph, and it's shutoff is only 15psi higher, so definitely not going to work. CIS relies on a high fuel pressure to operate, but the pump is designed for that: High pressure, not nearly as high of flow. But look at the Walbro again, running 3bar base pressure and say 30psi of boost for a total of ~5bar or somewhere in the range of 75psi, and it's flowing 250+lph. That's a big difference because you're not stringing the pump out for PRESSURE, and instead allowing it to do what it does best; FLOW a shit ton of fuel.

Fuel pump calculator
http://www.deatschwerks.com/resources/f ... calculator

Couple fuel injector calculators
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php
http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/hp-calculator

And I doubt doubled up CIS pumps is going to cut it for you. Again, they can run high pressure but the flow WILL drop off at higher boost, ask me how I know. Hint; it's because I'm already on EFI

Why do you want to run both race gas and E85? You'll need different tunes, or at least an ethanol content measuring doohickey.

The higher the base fuel pressure, the more likely you are to have fuel leaks. The fuel pump will draw more current and flow less fuel.

Try 3 bar base pressure.

For 525whp, you may be closer to 700 at the crank, depending on the dyno.

For E85, try a BSFC of 0.75. That's 525 pounds/hour of fuel, or about 5100cc/min.

So, to stay under 85% duty cycle, you'd need 1200cc/min injectors.

Exactly what he said

1200s it is!

My god....got fuel?

Your wish is my command! (just say the word )

For 525whp, you may be closer to 700 at the crank, depending on the dyno.

I must have missed something. When did Jared decide to go with a 20v engine?

For E85, try a BSFC of 0.75. That's 525 pounds/hour of fuel, or about 5100cc/min.

A 4kq has a 15 gallon tank right? That's enough fuel to go from full to empty in just over 11 minutes!

18 gallon tank I'm afraid.

And screw your 20v LOL

Dont worry, if I decide to invest my tax money into a nice TIG welder, I'm going to start making custom manifolds for small block dodge and 20v motors and after a few months of raking in the cash, I'll have enough money to go buy that Treser in Boise, drop a gnarly ass 07k in it, Superleggera Wheels, and GIGIGANORMOUS LAMBORGHINI BRAKES!!!

Is this of any interest?

Do it. Do IT. DO IT! That would be seriously rad if you ran that set up.

Looks like I MAY be buying a TIG welder this week. First Tax return is in the bank tomorrow (Monday). Got about another 2 weeks before the 2nd return shows up. Everything I have found locally that is used has either sold or just doesnt meet my needs. So going shopping tomorrow. Going to finally be able to produce my own manifolds. Cant wait to start making dodge stuff! Oh I guess I should make Audi stuff too....hmmmmm.....guess I'll finally make that B5 motor mounts I've been promising

Coils have been bought. Mmmmmm chevy LS2 truck coils for more PAH! It's almost done!

So I've decided after much debating to do my own harness from scratch. I'm going to buy new wires, sleeves, etc etc, and just put fresh everything in the engine bay for VEMS. Its almost time for 20vt launch control videos!!!

So I now know what I need to order to achieve my desired compression ratio of 10.5:1

I'm going to be converting the short rod/small diameter journals over to long rod/small diameter journals. Meaning I will be using 144mm rods with a 46mm crank journal and a 20mm wrist pin. This also means going from a 41.5 compression height down to a 32.8. Since the 20v and 20v blocks have the same deck height, the piston will end up in the same spot it does now.

Here are the specs of what I will run to acheive 10.5:1 Compression Ratio

81mm bore x 86.4 mm stroke

stock 29cc cylinder chamber volume (unless I decide to port the chambers for det resistance)
12.6cc Piston Dome Volume
-0.031" Deck clearance
20vt Headgasket which is 1.8mm thick which equals .071"compressed.

This gives me a quench of .040" and a compression of 10.5:1 with those specs. The only thing I havent decided on is if I will port the chambers to remove that stupid design which likes to cause detonation. This will most likely increase chamber volume by another 8-10cc and help increase flow too.

Oh man....theres a 1988 Audi 90 quattro for sale 10 minutes away for $600......if I buy it tomorrow the saab is going up for sale immediately

theres also a v8q not too far in slc too! lol

yeah yeah I know. I'm still considering it but its just hard to fly 800 whatever miles, drive back, register, insurance, etc etc. I'd be close to $2000 into the car by the time I'm ready to legally drive it

i could bring it up as far as idaho falls. we could work something out. although I admit I would opt for the small chassis too.

The other thing too is I have a million 20v parts laying around right now too. Once I go vems, I can throw all the CIS turbo stuff into the 80 and have a really nice DD as long as I dont go crazy like I'm doing on the 4000

Well the car was a pile. Only real thing it had going was a straight body. Would be a good car for someone to part out or make a track toy out of. Was missing fuel lines to the fuel dizzy from the WUR, had GREEN coolant in it (when I pointed that out he told me it was the right color because NAPA said so........Thats when I said NO...it needs to be PINK or RED, NAPA are idiots when it comes to imports), completely dead tires, none of the electric windows worked, headliner was falling apart, collapsed pcv hose, brakes went straight to the floor, rear dif light didnt light up, has a battery draw, the instrument cluster was missing the glass cover, and the list goes on and on. Even if he ditched it for $300 it would have been a bad deal on my part

My coolant was green when I put it in.
Now it's red!


well...I guess brownish red


Is rust a color?


I should do something about that.

pilihp2 wrote:My coolant was green when I put it in.
Now it's red!


well...I guess brownish red


Is rust a color?


I should do something about that.

Maybe a bigger turbo would solve that issue?

AngryTaco wrote:

pilihp2 wrote:My coolant was green when I put it in.
Now it's red!


well...I guess brownish red


Is rust a color?


I should do something about that.

Maybe a bigger turbo would solve that issue?

No dude, HPR mounts magically clean cooling systems

DUH