B4Q 80-AEB TD04HL-15T->16T 630-> 1150cc

[ChrisAudi80]

Forgot to post about this. Looks like I am making plenty of torque. Managed to crack the front body support bracket of the rear diff. Heard a clunk from under the car for a day or two. More stuff to get fixed. Luckily I found a local place that know what they are doing when it comes to body repair and subframe building.

[ChrisAudi80]

Picked up the car from the body shop last Tuesday. The new bracket is solid. It's bolted in with a sandwich plate on top. Under the rear seat.
Next up is ordering AK front subframe bushings, diff crossmember bushings and the diff snub support bracket with bushing.

See pics.

[ChrisAudi80]

Parts ordered from AK:
Front sub frame bushings M12
Diff crossmember bushings
Diff snout support bracket with bushing
All street hardness.

Redid the fuel lines a little in the trunk. Again. Put the ethanol sensor back in just because. I might get an Arduino like controller for it at some time.
Next up for fuel system is adding in (another) fuel cooler on the return line. The cooler will be under the rear seat. Well out of harms way. Want to fab up a little duct for it. After that, went to my meachnic to help me with the hood. The catch release wire broke yesterday. He got it open and we rigged up temp ropes to open the hood from the outside. Looks shit, but better than nothing while I try to find a new set. For RHD which is harder. After that, finally replaced the fuse/relay panel. A bit fiddly, but doable.

Also, I put together another catch can set (the old one sucks and leaks). It's a bit tight in there now. The can will be lower so the AN-10 90 for the inlet might hit the intake hose. The ball valve for the drain is a little overkill but the drain hose will also hold a few more CCs. Getting tired of avoidable oil leaks. Already changed the turbo oil drain hose to a AN-12 PTFE hose. Was a bitch to get in/on.

Because of this, the fuel pressure regulator will need its own bracket. Still figuring out how to place it without having to change the fuel and signal hoses.

The intake hose will get some updating too. Was never 100% on the rubber hose to Benz click fitting join. Will cut off the metal click fitting and use a reducer in there. 2" to 2.5". Just need to get a bevel of some kind on it first.

There is also a research project on the way, but that for another post. Too many details. Oh and water injection is in the future...
Pics.

[ChrisAudi80]

Yay! AK parts are here. Man, that was expensive... Not sure when I can install this as I'm super busy with work. Maybe next week.

Front subframe, diff crossmember bushings and snout bracket with bushing.

The picture of the turbo shows the old and new water injection nozzle locations. Red was the original place planned.

RED: Classical pre-turbo water injection location with a 90 inside the pipe with nozzle holder. The nozzle was going to point right at the compressor wheel nut inside the TIP, so there would be minimal damage to the wheel.

BLUE: new planned location for nozzle. This is called compressor volute injection.
Got the idea from Pro Meth's website: https://prometh.com/collections/volute- ... 9425434371

Can't wait to try this. Water only with a 1.5GPH nozzle. Gonna use a 1L beer can in the trunk as water tank. It will even have AN fittings. LOL.

[PRY4SNO]

Wet compression... awesome. Interested to see where this goes and what you (we) learn.

[ChrisAudi80]

Wet compression... awesome. Interested to see where this goes and what you (we) learn.

Of course I will share the knowledge gained from this quest using an expensive, complicated research project re-inventing the wheel with my follow cargeeks.

[ChrisAudi80]

So, today installed all the goodies from AK Motorsport. It has transformed the car. You can feel the difference in the rear. No more slop.
The front sub frame bushings were a PITA to get out, but the new ones went in fine. Forgot to take a picture of that. It's not very exciting.

Also redid the IC to TB hose. Put a 2.5" to 2.0" reducer with bevels in the join between MB hose and the Isuzu hose. You can see it in one of the previous pics. Holds boost much better.

Drove like an idiot to work, because some EK Civic was getting uppity on my ass. HA, bye!
Log shows peak of 263kpa. Highest MAP I have ever hit in this. Injector PW max 21.6ms, DC 86% so running out of headroom, but fuel pressure held.

Pictures.

[jbrentd]

Nice work on the suspension refresh. I have a pile of those parts too, waiting to go on my coupe.

[ChrisAudi80]

Nice work on the suspension refresh. I have a pile of those parts too, waiting to go on my coupe.

Thanks. Been taking a while to change out all these bushings. It's been so gradual that I don't really notice the incremental changes, except the diff bushings.

Today, I swapped in the new catch can kit. Didn't take a picture yet. Also made a bracket for the FPR. A little flimsy but should work. Will have to reinforce it somehow.
Forgot to mention that I put in an extra vacuum reservoir in line to the main diaphragm. Much better brake feel now.

[ChrisAudi80]

Reinforced the FPR bracket today. Turned out better than expected. My baby steps into fab work.
Some pictures. The CC AN-10 drain line and valve are down there somewhere.

So glad I finally got rid of the old can. Leaked everywhere. In the meantime, I decided last week to give the Forge valve another go. It's full BOV now. Gradually been tightening it up. Started from 15 clicks clockwise, now up to 22. Seems to get more responsive, but not hold boost as well as before, but might just be something else. Peaks at 240, then drops to 215 then up to 225kpa. Thinking that's all what the stock turbo and WG actuator got.

[ChrisAudi80]

Today was a good day. Finally installed the fuel cooler under the car.

And by fortune, a load of parts came for my pressure/temperature data log project.

It will measure compressor outlet pressure, exhaust manifold back pressure and down pipe back pressure next to the WBO2 sensor. Now because I only have one analog in left for this, I decided on using pneumatic valves to switch pressure sources. Won't be able to log all the signal parallel, but it's better than nothing.

Will also finally use the EGT probe for actual EGT logging. Got a fitting welded up here. It is a 1/4" NPT T piece with an 1/8" NPT thread at the top and an AN-3 fitting on the side. That way I only have to drill and tap the EM once.
There will be an AN-3 male bung next to the O2 bung too.
Then, 3/16" hardline to the other two valves. Bottom valve is for compressor out which will use an AN-4 PTFE line I already have.

The collector manifold goes to a repurposed old fuel filter to work as a damper to the pressure gauge. It has an integrated sensor which feeds 0-5v.
Will get the bundy hardline next week along with hardline tools.

[ChrisAudi80]

Got some new toys in the mail a few days ago. Need to get some more parts, but these are the major ones. Got it for a very good price.
Kit contents are:
Devil's own pump with level switch and filter,
3QT tank,
15ft, 3ft and 8" stainless braided hose, AN-4
2x solenoids
2x 12GPH nozzles. Way too big for my system, but no big deal. Came off a 1200hp Mustang.

My Lithuanian tuner friend has been helping me looking at my logs. I have been having some issues with the boost not doing what it used to, so back to basics.
He made a few suggestions that I am trying. One of them is set target boost to 200kpa, get it as flat as possible through the rev range. It can hold 200kpa from 3000 to 6800rpm. He also suggested to remove the BOV and plug it. Did that today. I knew that blanking plug would come in useful on day.

Group B life, here we come.

[PRY4SNO]

This is going to be awesome. Looking forward to seeing some initial results.

[Afterthought]

Group B life, here we come.

If I could get my car to chirp like the IMSA cars I would happily replace the turbo more often if needed !

Are you worried the BOV is leaking by or something ?

[PRY4SNO]

Group B life, here we come.

If I could get my car to chirp like the IMSA cars I would happily replace the turbo more often if needed !

I thought that chirp was compressor stall and not a BOV or WG?

[Afterthought]

Group B life, here we come.

If I could get my car to chirp like the IMSA cars I would happily replace the turbo more often if needed !

I thought that chirp was compressor stall and not a BOV or WG?

I never found out for sure but I thought that it was compressor surge . That was what I meant about replacing the turbo . Tried to look at some pictures and never could tell if they did have a blowoff valve on those IMSA cars but I’ve always wanted to blind flange it and see if it makes a difference in response .

[PRY4SNO]

Yes, compressor surge. That's it.

[ChrisAudi80]

Group B life, here we come.

If I could get my car to chirp like the IMSA cars I would happily replace the turbo more often if needed !

Are you worried the BOV is leaking by or something ?

It doesn't really chirp, but it does sound like I have a stock DV as a blow off. Only running 200kpa now. The response is sharper.

Yes, the reason is to see if the Forge BOV leaks at high pressure and also to see if it was contributing to the strange lambda oscillation around 3100-3200rpm in vacuum. I still have that ridge in the VE map, but the lambda oscillation is gone. I put a small fuel filter as damper right before the ECU.

Also got a fuel pressure damper yesterday from a Toyota. Need to retap the thread on it. It's M12*1.25mm and I have a 1/8" npt port on the fuel rail where I can put it.
I will order some fittings and a small nozzle. Smallest I can find on Ebay is 3GPH (370ml). And a steering wheel bracket for the activation button.
It'll look hawt. Yo.

[ChrisAudi80]

Actually, the turbo does chirp when I shift at 7000. It barely holds 200kpa from 6000.

However, it is clear my front end suspension is not up to the task of hard braking from 180kmh...

[ChrisAudi80]

After some testing, the lambda signal still has oscillation in vacuum from 3100 to 3300. Dammit. Even swapped in another spare WBO2 I had around. Same.

Swapped the Forge BOV back in. It does what it's supposed to do. And the whooshy noises are nice. No leak under boost.
Car runs smooth. Even managed to adjust the throttle preload so it idles at 850-900. Just a short length of twist tie. LOL.

The parts for the back pressure project and water injection project are coming in. Connectors, fittings, hardline and whatnot.
Hopefully should be able to get most mods done this month. Will be real busy from the end of August.
The exhaust manifold and compressor cover need to be drilled and tapped. Not looking forward to getting that damn snap ring out behind the compressor cover. PITA.
And because of the EGT/BP fitting going into the EM, I need to make another oil feed line. No biggie.

Then, need to make another wiring harness for all the sensors going into the Arduino and a small one for the water injection system.
They are:
-Water line pressure. Got a WIKA 400psi gauge with transducer for that.
-Analog temp sensors in the FPR, fuel line out of the cooler and oil feed line. Need to get those, but they are $60. Really cool, though.
https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/l ... re-sensor/
-RTD PT100 sensor (-40-250c range) for compressor outlet temp. Using the EGT for that now.

Already have a spare wire for the back pressure sensor. Got a 100psi Auberins sensor coming for that.

Also need to move the battery to the trunk. It will move some weight back, simplify the two pumps power supply and free up space in the bay.
Will move the FPR and a main switch to the battery tray.

[ChrisAudi80]

A few updates on the various projects.

The manifold for the backpressure project is in with the sensor. At this time, only compressor outlet pressure is hooked up. So far, a difference of 15-20kpa between intake MAP and post turbo MAP.
Since I had the 3 bar MAP sensor already, decided to use it to measure the vacuum right in front of the compressor wheel. That was a surprise. A pressure of 95 to 83 kpa only. Something was wrong, so made a proper sealing grommet into the TIP. The signal was erratic.
Also made a venturi to smoothen the airflow into the compressor. There were some sharp edges. Will test that today to see what happens.

Before that, made the button holder bracket and mounted to the steering wheel. The coil cable is shorter than I would like and it gets caught on the spacer bolts. So, need to come up with a solution. It will arm the water pump and power the water injection solenoid. The button has a blue LED which lights up when active.

Pictures.

[ChrisAudi80]

Update:
No more ridge in the VE table! Finally managed to fix it.

Made some changes last Friday.

Added a vent to the valve cover and ran a AN-10 hose to catch can.
In order to do this, I had to move the CC and FPR. Luckily could re-use the bracket. As you can see from the pictures, it is a little tight.
Because of this, I could split the fittings on plenum and shorten the MAP hose to the FPR.

Most importantly, swapping back to rubber hose out from the rail to FPR is what did the trick for removing the VE ridge.
See pictures.

Moving forward, next is installing the water injection and the back pressure stuff, but that will take some time. I wanted to get this done last month, but no go. Will be quite busy with work too.

[ChrisAudi80]

Forgot to say that my front end handling has been improved a lot. The AK MS red control arm bushings were worn out actually. There was noticeable shift by HAND on the RF arm. So, got some Verkline (new AK MS name) track hardness, black, bushings. Still had vibration but shimmy was gone. Got the rotors slightly resurfaced. Done.

So, safe hard braking from 180kmh...

MAP target now 210kpa. Fine tuning boost DC and PID right now. Fuel is on point. So close.

[audifreakjim]

The old rubber hose trick! Makes me wonder about my rail mounted regulator

[ChrisAudi80]

The old rubber hose trick! Makes me wonder about my rail mounted regulator

Yeah, good old rubber hose. Spent a lot of money on PTFE hose and fittings and now reverting to some rubber.

Don't remember what type of FPR you have but if it's a stock Bosch type, it is OK, but if like my Fuelab, no bueno.
From what I have read, if you have a pressure sensor in the rail, it will die faster because they are sensitive to vibration.