The Project Pad

dalspaugh wrote:Oh my... That coating looks beautiful! Must learn more about it... Googling...

I'm really happy with how it turned out but it's not cheap by any means. Cost $200 to have all those parts done .

Afterthought wrote:

dalspaugh wrote:Oh my... That coating looks beautiful! Must learn more about it... Googling...

I'm really happy with how it turned out but it's not cheap by any means. Cost $200 to have all those parts done .

details?

varia wrote:
details?

That is Cerakote, the color is "Black velvet" he said it may change and have more of a satin look after I run it for a while, but it's guaranteed to not peel off. This was done at my local powder coater, he does alot of sprint car headers in the same stuff.
http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/finishes/C-7300Q/black-velvet/

Afterthought wrote:I'm really happy with how it turned out but it's not cheap by any means. Cost $200 to have all those parts done .

"Not cheap by any means."

Try SwainTech White Lightning on for size!

Afterthought wrote:Got some parts back from the coater, excited about how they turned out.
These are coated in Cerakote in satin black. Gurateed by these guys to be good for any amount of heat that I can throw at it.

Damn those look good. Looks like i need to add another item to the list..

Did you coat the turbine housing?

Jim, nothing on the turbine side, only the compressor housing. I suppose that wouldn't have been a bad idea though!

Finally got done working a few months straight and have some time to put things together now. I have everything back except the head.



Block has been cleaned and honed, resurfaced on the top.


DM forged I-Beam connecting rods


Factory AAN pistons


Everything is balanced

Put a few coats of primer and then paint on the block. Going to let everything dry and start assembling the bottom end later this week.
Didn't go with black this time. It will be easier to see if I have any leaks at any point down the road with a lighter color.

Block looks great! Also the same reason I opted for a lighter colour myself.

Afterthought wrote:Jim, nothing on the turbine side, only the compressor housing. I suppose that wouldn't have been a bad idea though!

So I asked Hank to do the same to mine when my exhaust header and DP were sent to Swain, but he advised against coating the turbo.

As I recall, he mentioned none of the Indy teams do so and there's a danger of the coating flaking off and damaging the turbo.

YMMV

PRY4SNO wrote:So I asked Hank to do the same to mine when my exhaust header and DP were sent to Swain, but he advised against coating the turbo.

As I recall, he mentioned none of the Indy teams do so and there's a danger of the coating flaking off and damaging the turbo.

YMMV

Interesting. I honestly did feel like taking anything any farther apart than it already is so I just popped the cold side off and called it good.
The reason it popped into my head to do that is that with the 034 Header, the front runner is right next to the compressor out. I'm not sure if it gets any better with other manifolds or not.
I shoulda saved all my money up and just shipped my car to IROZ and had them dial it in

Nice conversion from external to internal balance.114g of weight removal to get the balancer and flywheel to zero balance! That's a 1/4 pound!
It usually take 5-10g's to balance a good internal balance engine.

Repaair wrote:Nice conversion from external to internal balance.114g of weight removal to get the balancer and flywheel to zero balance! That's a 1/4 pound!
It usually take 5-10g's to balance a good internal balance engine.

You know, in the past I haven't thought twice about slapping on a lightweight flywheel but it seemed like things were way off this time around. Balancing and engine building is not what I do, so I let the machine shop handle that. I don't think it contributed to my engine failure, but I feel a lot better about this one going together right. That 114G of tungsten was added to the pressure plate because the flywheel is aluminum.

Bare bottom end, cyliner walls were all within factory specs but they have been honed now:


One of the issues with rebuilding this engine is I need to be very very particular about making sure there is no metal shavings from the rod bearings failing left anywhere. I thought the engine shut down soon enough that nothing had circulated anywhere but I Took apart the oil pump and found some brass bits in there...


Cleaned the oil pan:


DM Forged I-Beam rods from EFIexpress ready to go in:


Calico coated main and rod bearings from EFI Express going in:



Pistons in, mains torqued one by one while rotating everything by hand:

Getting more complete.


Cam seal in, cam caps torqued. Timing checked.




ARP head studs in, MLS head gasket.




Starting to torque everything...

Nice progress - good to see the engine coming together. Any chance you know the weight difference between your I-beam and a typical H-beam rod?

Thanks for posting the Cerakote link... their thermal coatings seem really durable and they've got a dry-film coating for gears, etc. - looks slick.

Off the top of my head I do not know the difference in weight. The I-beams are an extra $100 or so.

Alright... She's back on the road! Now updated with quite a few things.
New oil cooler


New ignition coils because my LS2 coils got stolen by my S6 while the coupe was down.

Nice Build!!

Glad its on the road again. Nice fabwork and Weldskills.

indeed very nice!!!!
and probably will be better this time since you got some quality control

"ok, that bearing is between the specs"

Still working on getting everything sorted out.
Car is running great now, with the N75 unplugged for the break in period. Then I need to tune the boost side of things and have the PID control working , didnt have that on before.
Car is running slightly hot. I have been up to full operating temp 3x now then uncapped the coolant reservoir let the car cool all the way down. Seen the level drop each time, but still even driving at say 35 mph with the aux radiator fan running im seeing temps try to climb near 100 C. Dont know if I have an air bubble in the system that I can't get out or what.

Couple of pics.
New oil pressure gauge wired in. Someday ill get a matching boost gauge and replace the ugly cheapo one.


Couple shots of the current state of the engine bay. Still need to do some cleanup and organize wires and what not.




Exterior

Interior

Car looks fantastic, glad to see it coming together!

Hot damn... looks fantastic. Videos! when possible!

I will get some when everything is broken in and sorted out. Still need to get some miles on her and tune the boost but I may be having a problem it seems.
I don't know what you guys are seeing for temps , but Im climbing above 94C, and having to shut the car down and run the fan for a while to cool. This is hotter than I was running before. And is hot enough to boil or overflow some coolant out of the reservoir. the thermostat is opening when it should and all hoses are getting hot. I have tried to "Burp" the system by getting to full temp and removing reservoir cap . Any other ideas?

The car looks great, but I think your radiator could use some help in the shrouding department. The top half looks like it would be a nightmare, but is the bottom pretty open? Make up a belly pan of sorts to keep the air from going under the radiator, and make shrouds on the edges to keep the air into the fins. The back side fan also needs a shroud. Let me find a pic of mine. I am also going to be using one of these, it may help you out as well.
http://derale.com/products/electric-fan ... obe-detail

Here are pics of my dual 10" fans on a similar size radiator