Nick's 1991 Audi 200 20VTQ Avant - Sold

[themagellan]

Hola dude, Good to see your updates - I need to make my own haha.

If your idle is doing that - I would definitely for the hell of it check out your RPM and Crank Sensor. I am waiting on a bracket to come in, but mine was doing the exact same thing, once I got everything out the sensor wire nearly came off in my hand and both sensors had a good 1-2mm worth of grease/shit on the end of them.

[20VAvant]

Small update.

Just ordered some wheels and tires Hopefully be here before end of next week. Went with some big wheels so hopefully they fit.

Ordered stiffer springs for the rear and moved rear spring up to front to reduce rear squat. Will be sending out Bilsteins within the next few months to re-valve.
Ordered yodasfro bushing fix for the rear arms as I am getting a thunk every time I hit a decent bump and EVERY time I take off it thuds. Hopefully this fixes it.
Have new transmission mounts ready to go, meaning front subframe are the only ones left!
Also starting to look into getting the Toureg brakes that work with the UFO towers.

Hopefully will be able to start looking into turbos and other goodies here soon as well!

[loxxrider]

Nice, look into having the Bilsteins shortened too if you are up for shortening your strut housings. I did it on my 635 and it was done to my 200 (at Marc's). It will save the life of the billies even more after they are re-valved and you wont bottom out all the time.

[20VAvant]

Nice, look into having the Bilsteins shortened too if you are up for shortening your strut housings. I did it on my 635 and it was done to my 200 (at Marc's). It will save the life of the billies even more after they are re-valved and you wont bottom out all the time.

My biggest concern with doing that is the thread on top. Do you re thread or do you just cut and splice? I would definitely like to shorten because i'm a sucker for minimal wheel gap.

[loxxrider]

Cut and splice. You just take a section out of the middle. Only thing you have to worry about is keeping the strut straight and not cutting too much out. I can give some advice when you're ready and I posted some pics from when I did it to my 635 in the cookies thread for t44.

[20VAvant]

New set of wheels!



Only boosting to 13-14PSI now though. No setting changed and it used to boost to 18PSI....need to look into that

[loxxrider]

That looks pretty good!

[amd is the best]

That looks great man!!! Now I have to keep my Avant! Lol

[Justin517]

really dig the wheels... what are they? look similar to rotiform BLQ but with a lip...

[WOMBAT]

Ooo really like the wheels!

[20VAvant]

really dig the wheels... what are they? look similar to rotiform BLQ but with a lip...

Thank you everyone for the kind words!

They are some off brand. Wanted to keep it cheaper until I knew how everything would fit. They are technically CCW reps with a 2.5" lip.

They are 18x9.5et20 all around with a 235 40 18 tire. Removed rear wheel liner and have no rubbing issues at the moment front or rear. I need to shorten the front 1.5" and it should look pretty clean. Puts alot of tire on the ground

I also swapped around springs and am running #550 up front and #650 rear. With all the bushings done, new shocks/springs, wheels, and an alignment this this handles 100x better than it used to, really is alot of fun to drive.

My battery died a few days ago after it say for a while, I think I left lights on

Since recharging and reconnecting the battery it will not boost above 14PSI...I hooked up VEMS, nothing changed, checked over all my hoses and still wont boost to 18 like it used to. Any suggestions.....? *Fixed: Boot boost leak

[20VAvant]

I'm in need of some VEMS help.

Tonight on way home I plugged it in because it had been running differently. I noticed my 'warmup on' is on constantly throughout all temperatures of coolant, etc... Any ideas as to why this would happen?

Also,
It is max boosting at 12.3 PSI when I have the fuel cut at 18PSI. It will not go any farther.

Suggestions...?

[pilihp2]

How's it ride with the 650's in the rear and 550's in front? You're 100 more on front and back than I am and I already ride rough.

Also curious on your boost issue. Mine is not changing boost levels no matter what I do to settings. Not sure if it's an n75 being bad issue or something else?

[20VAvant]

How's it ride with the 650's in the rear and 550's in front? You're 100 more on front and back than I am and I already ride rough.

I am on 235/40/18 stretched onto 9.5" wide wheels. With low profile tires and the #550 #650 setup, it rides pretty hard, but that's what I like. It's not a daily driver for me and I like being able to feel every bump in the road

[loxxrider]

Definitely get those things re-valved ASAP! lol I give it 6 more months before they are spewing fluid. I assume that is what you're planning on when you shorten 1.5"...

Take a log and leave it here, that will help decide what the N75 is doing. See what happens if you set it to 100% DC (or 0 depending on how you have it set up). That should tell you what is going on. The warmup enrichment may stay on if the coolant temps aren't getting hot enough (these cars run very cold in cold weather). See if that is the case. I would tell you where to go, but I am not on a computer with VEMS on it right now.

[20VAvant]

Definitely get those things re-valved ASAP! lol I give it 6 more months before they are spewing fluid. I assume that is what you're planning on when you shorten 1.5"...

Take a log and leave it here, that will help decide what the N75 is doing. See what happens if you set it to 100% DC (or 0 depending on how you have it set up). That should tell you what is going on. The warmup enrichment may stay on if the coolant temps aren't getting hot enough (these cars run very cold in cold weather). See if that is the case. I would tell you where to go, but I am not on a computer with VEMS on it right now.

I plan on doing the re-valve when I have them shortened hopefully this spring.

I will leave log as soon as I can take a good one. It's really weird, it is driving completely normal. Idle is great, I changed settings and it's starting alot better. Also, the warm-up on issue was fixed. Peak boost at 10 PSI today...

Is there an alternative to N75 valve? $100...

[loxxrider]

I don't think the problem is your N75. Sounds like you have a boost leak.

[20VAvant]

Looks like you were right, Chris, again...

[amd is the best]

I have a spare or two if you need one. Or go with a silicone replacement.

[pilihp2]

I had the same hose blow. at the same place. hah.

[mushasho]

If in fact you wanted to still swap out the n75, you could always put an industrial MAC valve in there...

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[loxxrider]

Looks like you were right, Chris, again...

Glad I could help. This is why a community like this is so great. Most of us have experienced all of the same problems you're having.

[20VAvant]

I have a spare or two if you need one. Or go with a silicone replacement.

Coincidently, I had a silicone replacement a Christmas list from the girlfran.

Glad I could help. This is why a community like this is so great. Most of us have experienced all of the same problems you're having.

I have hopes of making it to Carlisle next year, I will have to buy everyone a round!

[20VAvant]

WELL.
The girlfriends dad is a diesel mechanic and had a few of these "laying around the shop"
Completely rebuild-able... Holset HX40W

[Justin517]

ket a K26 #8 housing and go to a turbo.machine shop and get them stuck together!