The Project Pad

audifreakjim wrote:Can I comment yet? Damn nice progress, the exhaust is going to be awesome. Great to see the update!

feel free to comment, get them in !! theres several more updates incoming tonight
lots happening

More updates, still not caught up yet!
The intake manifold is still under construction but is getting much closer. The throttle body to plenum feed was made by cutting apart a 180 mandrel bend. I first cut into two smooth radius 90’s. I then split them right up the middle, smoothed it and had it welded together, inside and out. Ryan got the piece planished and brushed out, now its nice and smooth yet still very strong.







When making this intake manifold I had a few things going for me. This motor never came in this car. It is much shorter than the i5 it’s replacing. I could have very easily put the throttle body on or near the front side of the plenum like so many aftermarket or custom intake manifolds. They normally do this because there is a lot of stuff already in the way. Since I’m building this from the ground up there wasn’t really any thing else in the bay and I’m free to put things where I see fit. I don’t have to work around very many oem obstacles.

I wanted to have a very direct throttle body to velocity stack path. So rather than attach the tb at the front it comes in at a slight angle facing the drivers side of the car. In the inner fender and bumper I will be able to run a nice smooth radius IC outlet > TB boost pipe.







I got a 3.5” to 3” 16 gauge mandrel transition from http://www.racepartsolutions.com
The transition will be welded to the throttle body and right in front of that will be a vibrant van-jen o-ring clamp. You can see the slight angle that the transition will be welded at.




I still need to do a bit of work on the inside of the tb flange where it goes into the plenum feed. I want to start to open it up a bit so its more gradual into the feed.

I also need to do some cleanup grinding on the inside of the plenum feed so that the inside can be fully welded as well. Then smoothed with a flapper.

i found a few pics from when i built the exhaust system, heres pics of the missing piece of floor, the replacement is done and awaiting welding.

15lbs exhaust? Wow, that's light...

And that IM looks total p0rn

ChrisAudi80 wrote:15lbs exhaust? Wow, that's light...

And that IM looks total p0rn

next winter if this 4" pipe over the rear diff passenger side mount doesnt play nice once the car starts moving and driving, im going to do just what you did and chop the floor/trunk aread out and weld in a tunnel for it.

my full exhaust is prolly damn near 10lbs total. stainless downpipe, the rest is all aluminum including the muffler.

Damn, that looks fantastic man!

zerb wrote:

ChrisAudi80 wrote:15lbs exhaust? Wow, that's light...

my full exhaust is prolly damn near 10lbs total. stainless downpipe, the rest is all aluminum including the muffler.

how far back down the car is the downpipe stainless? 16 ga.?

what about alu thickess?

my2000apb wrote:

zerb wrote:

ChrisAudi80 wrote:15lbs exhaust? Wow, that's light...

my full exhaust is prolly damn near 10lbs total. stainless downpipe, the rest is all aluminum including the muffler.

how far back down the car is the downpipe stainless? 16 ga.?

what about alu thickess?

the downpipe stops at about the end of the transmission, its 16 gauge like you said. the aluminum is probably not thick enough to be up to the task if you daily drove the car seeing as its 16 gauge. but i have seen pic of a few hondas that T1 race has done down in texas that are aluminum from the turbo all the way back.

ok i figured itd be 16 gauge alu.
i went thicker for somethign a bit more solid, i plan on doing a lot of extended sessions and 16 gauge seemed thin
my down pipe goes maybe 6 inches past the end of the trans, granted the trans is pushed back a ways

on a drag car its a way different game, but extended temp at turbo outlet on an alu dp would only last soo long

if i was that worried about wgt i wouldnt have gone vr6t

ok a few teaser pics while i work on the update
we got a lot of power coming out of our small garage



and who doesnt love some turbine pron



and a shot of the super 40 with dp and collector

Ok, I finally got a chance to fab up some tabs so I could mount my coolant reservoir. They are wedges of ¾” angle with studs welded on. It mounts nicely right up on the strut bar. Its located just to the drivers side of the heater core hoses.






I also got the rest of my cooling system, dif and trans cooling later

Oil – Earl’s 25 row, wide oil cooler, 10AN ports
http://www.holley.com/82510ERL.asp


Water - Griffin Radiator , 26” x 9” x 2.5” overall with a 21” x 19” core, no filler neck
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-56222-H


Air – Treadstone TR12C intercooler,
Core Size, 12.5" X 22" X 3.5"
1200 CFM flow rate
800 HP efficient
Less than 1.5psi pressure drop at max flow
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/pr ... ntercooler



from these pice it may seem like there is a ton of room up front, well there is. It will all be taken up soon by the huge radiator and intercooler moving in.


ok now that I have all this stuff I need to get it hung in the car! That’s tomorrows post im tired

looking good

ok update time, while I do have a good amount of space in front of the motor, I had to utilize every bit that I could. I have a fiberglass rs2 replica bumper here that I will use for a while, but a HUGE THANKS goes out to Malcolm, (gruppe5) for letting me borrow his s2 front bumper to help mockup my setup.

With a large front mounted intercooler, radiator, shroud and fans, there wasn’t much of the stock center support sheet metal that would remain. I had to make an upper bar to tie the two headlight buckets together as well as a larger bumper bar / support which doubles to mount my intercooler and radiator.

.the upper tie bar is 1.5” sched. 10, 6061. I had ryan mill a flat spot on the ends of the tube so that the 90 deg. End pieces would sit down flush onto the upper surface of the bar. I then had these welded to the end of the bar. And its now together enough to pt it in place, trim it a bit and drill/tap the mounting holes.

The bumper bar is a 3 ¼” x 1 ¾” x .25”wall rectangle stock. In order for it to fit, the inner bumper structure will need to be completely removed. The intercooler core fits nicely right in behind it. The frame horn end plates are made from two pieces of ¼” plate with a small spacer in between them. The corner of the driver side mounting plate does need a bit of trimming as that is very close to the oil cooler mounting. PICS!!!

Cross bar mount drilled and tapped. And reinstalled with just enough, ~¼” of upper radiator clearance.
it still needs to be trimmed around the red paint marker so its a nice transsition to the factory sheet metal around the headlights

Now that I had the main bumper bar in place and welded up enough that its certainly not going to move, I can hang the radiator and intercooler from it. The entire from assembly has been designed so that I will be able to remove the bumper and then remove the rad/ic/oil cooler/bumper bar all together. Disconnect the hoses and remove the entire front clip/cooling package as a unit.

I spent a while playing with the mitre saw to make all these little mounting brackets for the ic and rad. and they came out pretty sweet! Ryan from Higbee Fab came back over the other day so we could weld/tack this stuff all up on the car as it’s a pretty tight fit.




The intercooler and radiator are mounted on the same silicone snapper grommets that I used on the aluminum exhaust. They are pretty sweet and just the right durometer to allow stuff to shift/give but not move around even in a tightly packaged car.




The lower bar to support the radiator and intercooler is tacked and mounted to the bottom of the radiator, but I will probably hold off on the rest of it until I start doing the boost piping, so I can set nice clearances around everything, but more so to make everything as accessible as possible.

heres the intercooler and radiator mounted up on the supports
and a shot with the bumper and hood closed
and yes, i did cut the middle tabs off a pair of s2 headlights so my radiator would fit

ok MORE!!!
With my Compbrake pedal set moved back off from the firewall, I needed some reservoirs. In talking with Haydn @HT Motorsport, he suggested the three-in-one Tilton reservoir.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-72-577/

Its nice and easy to mount being one piece, there are three different sized res. For the front brakes, rear brakes and clutch. All gasket sealed and with 4AN outlets on the bottom. Now where to mount it? As I planned on using no factory wiring and putting everything where I wanted to, I set to cutting the factory fuse box hole in the raintray.




The only problem was that the raintray isn’t nearly level. I didn’t want my brake and clutch fluid to be uneven and possibly starve of fluid on hard cornering. I made a template and then got a piece of steel broken to make a nice recess for the fluid res. The reservoir sits nice and level now.

I made up a small slotted mounting bracket to make install and removal a breeze. Two long m6 allens and I can snug it down to seal it up against grommets or RTV bead.




I got a bunch of undercoating stripped back and it was clean and ready to weld up. I love the 0.023” wire for this small sheet metal stuff!! The bracket was welded on outside the car and the piece final fit and slide right into its relief in the raintray. I stitch welded it all around, gave it some etch primer and put some seamsealer on it once it had dried. here you can see the easy access to the fitting on the bottom side. And finally the reservoir and wiper motor installed. PICS!!!

Hi,
from what I can see on your pics, about 1/4 of your IC core is hidden behind the front bar. About 1/2 + is "sticked"to the cooling radiator. IMHO a great part of the IC efficiency could be lost. What do you think? It's not only to have an IC beautifully mounted at the front. There must be airflow through its full cooling area. :-)
Regards!

Wow man, serious fab work taking place here! Do like. Keep it up!

im quite jealous of your front end setup support bar/rad mount/intercooler mount. very nice way to do things.

Looking VERY good

vr-vagman wrote:Hi,
from what I can see on your pics, about 1/4 of your IC core is hidden behind the front bar. About 1/2 + is "sticked"to the cooling radiator. IMHO a great part of the IC efficiency could be lost. What do you think? It's not only to have an IC beautifully mounted at the front. There must be airflow through its full cooling area. :-)
Regards!

there will be airflow through the bar at points that is to come later, ive got a bunch of 16ga. alu sheet to mount to the top and side of rad and ic that will duct in behind grille and bumper grille so airflow cannot go around

still lots to post but its back out to the garage for now!

Looks totally pro, really nice work. huge respect for you guys skillz.

thanks for the compliments guys, theres sooo much time into what ends up being an 8 pic updatepost hahaha