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Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:12 pm
by secretagentman
:woowoo: impressive

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:50 pm
by speeding-g60
secretagentman wrote::woowoo: impressive


you do know that it is a 4cyl, right?

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:57 pm
by loxxrider
Yeah thats super impressive. Cant WAIT to see how she runs.

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:00 pm
by hypothetical
That is a nice broad torque band... Damn. Was that on the 3652s they seem to give up a little early.

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:01 pm
by secretagentman
speeding-g60 wrote:
secretagentman wrote::woowoo: impressive


you do know that it is a 4cyl, right?


yes.

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:02 pm
by speeding-g60
ya that was '52s.... we pulled the run @ 7800.... thats what Kevin wanted, 4k - 7800, so thats what we pulled.

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:09 pm
by hypothetical
No worries man, It's an awesome line. You should be ripping it with a spread like that. 2010 is gonna be your year.

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:10 pm
by speeding-g60
bored as hell here. nothing to do, so i guess i just change stuff.

all 1/4" OD SS hardlines. looks neato to me. all perfeshinull and stuffs.


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Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 4:20 pm
by Hybrid_Hatch
Very cool, is that blood in the last picture? Blood means you're doing it right

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:17 pm
by Mcstiff
Looks like silver over red paint.

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:44 pm
by death 4kqt
are those swagelok fittings? I see thousands of those sitting in the scrap dumpsters at the ibm plant where I work. Always wanted to salvage that stuff for cool automotive use. Looks nice.

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:48 pm
by speeding-g60
yes, Swagelok and Parker A-lok. those two are inter-compatible, and Parker are less expensive. i was originally going to run my rabbit fueling with 0.500" SS tubing....

they are BUCKS, too.

if you get them from the scrap, you can just buy new ferrules and you are good to go. those Tee's were over $22 apiece. we sometimes get them from the local scrap places here, too.

and no blood Dave. its silver/red paint....

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:08 pm
by SilverCQ
sweet...stainless tubing looks tits :)

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:11 pm
by speeding-g60
i like tits better though, but it does look pretty neat :)

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:33 pm
by derracuda
veddy nice :D

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:35 pm
by speeding-g60
:)

Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 11:22 pm
by repomanpro
Hey Aaron whats the part number on that diverter valve?

Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:10 am
by death 4kqt
speeding-g60 wrote:if you get them from the scrap, you can just buy new ferrules and you are good to go. those Tee's were over $22 apiece. we sometimes get them from the local scrap places here, too.

and no blood Dave. its silver/red paint....


Its pretty hard to scavenge here, I'm an engineering contractor here and already hated by the IBM employees. They have a strict policy of no scrap can be removed from the site unless you are the scrap removal contractor. Its painfull because there is stainless tubing of every shape and size (up to 10" diameter), tons of nice stainless flex bellows, weld el, etc. And it all goes to scrap when a new tool comes in :frustrated:

Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:13 am
by speeding-g60
diverter valve? i dont have one of those....

if you mean the boost control valve, i get it from Kevin. i will ask him when next we speak.....

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:16 pm
by speeding-g60
i did some things.

i checked on the head, not done yet :(

i swapped water pump housings, put in a t-stat. will try that route, faster warm up time. it takes about 18 minutes from cold (in summer ambient 80 degrees?) to operating temperature for warmup.

i also changed one ss line, i didnt like the way it looked.

and drained the rear diff. which reminds me i gotta fill that thing again. :)

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 8:49 pm
by quattro87
speeding-g60 wrote:yes, Swagelok and Parker A-lok. those two are inter-compatible, and Parker are less expensive. i was originally going to run my rabbit fueling with 0.500" SS tubing....

they are BUCKS, too.

if you get them from the scrap, you can just buy new ferrules and you are good to go. those Tee's were over $22 apiece. we sometimes get them from the local scrap places here, too.

and no blood Dave. its silver/red paint....


It's easy to see the people that are exposed to an industrial setting. We use Swagelok and stainless for just about everything in I&E control work in the power industry. I've thought quite often of using hard tubing for the fuel lines and especially for E85 use. It really makes a guy sick to see all the high dollar waste that gets thrown out as systems are deleted/upgraded and new tubing is run. I came home from work just last week having to lean forward some in the driver's seat because I had stuffed a bunch of old throw away 1/4" tubing into the back of the daughter's beetle and it was crowding me some. LOL

My experience has taught me not to mix and match Swagelok and Parker. I know that they are supposed to be compatible, but I can't tell you how many times I have seen leaks by doing so, especially in high pressure hydraulic use. (>2000psi) I think that part of the problem is over tightening to begin with. Everyones tendency is that if tight is good, tighter surely is better which isn't the case with Swagelok. They can be reused as far as off and on indefinitely if they aren't overtightened or the stainless isn't allowed to gall. We try to stay strictly Swagelok here, but have some of the original systems that were installed with Parker, so at that point we either change out completely or try not to mix.

By the way.....Looking good!!

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:57 pm
by speeding-g60
thanks :)

and yeah... the Swagelok have a 2 part ferrule and the Parker has a single. the compatibility issues arise from threads not matching, etc, between brands. but these two are interchangeable.

typically i do steam and hot oil trace lines, and instrumentation with the tubing.

and yes, people do tend to think tighter is better. but not so much of the time.

and it is funny, just use the fitting bodies, buy some new ferrules, and cut the tubing to scavenge the nuts. then you are in it pennies on the dollar, if so much. tubing is cheap as well.

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:13 pm
by Rocco16V
speeding-g60 wrote:i stopped by and got the dyno's from the last session.... run 18, 3rd gear. 7700 rpm. from ~5800 til end i was >500 AWHP with a peak of 559. and from 6800 to 7700 it was >550 AWHP. and torque peaked @ 456 wtq right around 6k .

:o >500AWHP from a little 4 cyl! :woowoo: :drool:

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:27 pm
by 85oceanic
Rocco16V wrote:
speeding-g60 wrote:i stopped by and got the dyno's from the last session.... run 18, 3rd gear. 7700 rpm. from ~5800 til end i was >500 AWHP with a peak of 559. and from 6800 to 7700 it was >550 AWHP. and torque peaked @ 456 wtq right around 6k .

:o >500AWHP from a little 4 cyl! :woowoo: :drool:


I totally agree!!! WOO HOO!!!! :D

Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:56 pm
by speeding-g60
Rocco16V wrote:
speeding-g60 wrote:i stopped by and got the dyno's from the last session.... run 18, 3rd gear. 7700 rpm. from ~5800 til end i was >500 AWHP with a peak of 559. and from 6800 to 7700 it was >550 AWHP. and torque peaked @ 456 wtq right around 6k .

:o >500AWHP from a little 4 cyl! :woowoo: :drool:


well, the first time i ran it, it made 592 AWHP while it lifted the head @ 45psi boost spike :) and thats only to 7krpm or so. normal running on that motor (with less boost of course) is 8500 rpm.

and that was on a smallport head with port work done, and 82mm pistons with 4 broken wristpins.

the new motor was those numbers, it is largeport head with no work and 83mm pistons.

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