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Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:42 pm
by fasterthenrs2
Glad you did not throw the towel

:cheers:
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:52 pm
by zerb
heres to 700+ awhp in 2010 :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:53 pm
by Toxcheap
:stupid:
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:28 pm
by speeding-g60
Chris: ARP BOLTS... not studs. the studs make pulling the head a MAJOR chore.... i have to pull the manifold after i take the center section out of the turbo. i am getting fast at it as i have done it now so many times, but it sucks. with the studs, i cant lift the head high enough to pull off the studs. with bolts, i can lift head 1/2" and be out.
Janis: no towel throwing here. i am saving that for the tears of joy after i get to run it

its already soaked with blood and sweat.
Johnny/Myke: lofty goal, 700 AWHP. but anythings possible. and we all know i push it, apparently too far sometimes

there is a 2.1L 8v 4cyl drag car runs on methanol/nitromethane in Brazil. it makes 1078 WHP!!!!! so 700 is feasible here....
i also had a couple more stickers made for the car this past weekend... i was bored and wanted to do something to the car. which made me want to work on it more.





Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:31 pm
by HT Motorsport
:woowoo: welcome back to the world of the living

Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:32 pm
by loxxrider
Feelin' the lugtronic stickers!
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:16 pm
by 85oceanic
I dig them too!
Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:38 pm
by zerb
speeding-g60 wrote:Johnny/Myke: lofty goal, 700 AWHP. but anythings possible. and we all know i push it, apparently too far sometimes

there is a 2.1L 8v 4cyl drag car runs on methanol/nitromethane in Brazil. it makes 1078 WHP!!!!! so 700 is feasible here....
the b34cyl20v needs to be a combined 1400hp in 2010.
thats 7hundo a piece.

Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 6:57 pm
by speeding-g60
so the head is welded up, and now the machining process begins.
cut in +1mm OS intake valves.
surface.
3/5 angle valve job.
assemble with retainers/springs/lifters/inconel ex valves/new guides/seals.
pressure check.
order ARP headbolts, new radiator, etc, and reassemble.... my wife will just LOVE IT when this car runs again (due to the ginormous WOODY i will be sporting when it happens LOL)
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 7:10 pm
by fasterthenrs2
:woowoo: :woowoo: Me likei, I think I will stick with DD story and take this winter of, god damn house is sucking all my fun $$ Lets hope Marco will build strong enough axles to hit 1.4 60ft with 3375lbs dd CQ
Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:44 am
by RSCoupe
Who needs Viagra when you have go fast Audi parts?!?
Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:55 am
by speeding-g60
dropped off second head, its fixable YAY!!!!!
ARP's ordered.
other stuff i am waiting until i know what other parts i wanna order will be so i only order 17 times from Summit instead of my normal 40 or so

but now i need some axles LOL.... Janis, whats up with the new design? any idea when they will have that stuff ready? i only want to know so i can move this car around, its backwards in the garage and not mobile, and i have to schedule dyno session.... with less boost hahahaha. i guess 45+ PSI is unstable....
:slap:
Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:59 am
by speeding-g60
forgot to mention, i had the 1000cc injectors flowed and cleaned.
pre cleaning, @ 3BAR they flowed 880cc, and @ 4BAR (which is where i run it static) they flowed 1000cc, tolerance of 1% between the lot.
i think thats pretty good if i have any clue as to what i know.... so i can cross out an injector issue. still think too much boost too fast. 45psi by 6k rpm? is alot...
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:14 pm
by my2000apb
45 psi at any rpm is a LOT!!!
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:38 pm
by fasterthenrs2
speeding-g60 wrote:dropped off second head, its fixable YAY!!!!!
ARP's ordered.
other stuff i am waiting until i know what other parts i wanna order will be so i only order 17 times from Summit instead of my normal 40 or so

but now i need some axles LOL.... Janis, whats up with the new design? any idea when they will have that stuff ready? i only want to know so i can move this car around, its backwards in the garage and not mobile, and i have to schedule dyno session.... with less boost hahahaha. i guess 45+ PSI is unstable....
:slap:
I will call marco see what’s up, if he will milk them I just ship your axles back to you ;D
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:48 pm
by speeding-g60
you just keep em for now... i am in no real hurry. worse comes to worse, i turn 5% out of boost map, and run it in March or whenever.
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:57 pm
by Justin517
so you are using head bolts rather than head studs? Is that the best idea with the power you are going for especially since you already lifted 2 heads. It may be a chore to remove the head with studs, but if you dont lift/destroy the head... you dont have to pull the head, lol. you get more even torquing with studs over bolts.
From Alamo Motorsports ARP page and basically what I've been told by a few different racers:
"Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/arp/arp_headbolts.html
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:28 pm
by speeding-g60
Justin517 wrote:so you are using head bolts rather than head studs?
no, ARP does not yet produce the bolts i want(ed). i found a better solution.
the Raceware studs i use now (not anymore, they have 2 hits on them :( ) ((hits meaning failures)) just thread in.
the ARP studs that have been ordered have an allen hole in the top of them, thus allowing me to remove them from the motor while the head is still in place, solving all of my problems other than this pesky head lift issue

if it were an Olympic event, i know i would at least place

but ya just cant reach then to remove them while they are in the head.....
Justin517 wrote:Is that the best idea with the power you are going for especially since you already lifted 2 heads.
actually lifted the head 3 times.... well 3 catastrophic times LOL. i only wasted (melted) two of them.... at the bottom of the post is the first run of the year, watch at the end.... do not mind the hatch, it seems to have popped off the line. i call it my Super Downforce Mod.... but that could have been BAD NEWS THERE...
Justin517 wrote:It may be a chore to remove the head with studs, but if you dont lift/destroy the head... you dont have to pull the head, lol.
GREAT POINT, one i am slowly trying to actually accomplish HAHAHA. its just some people learn faster (READ: cheaper) than others i guess...
VIDEO is the first run of the year, spit out the HG.... i let the v8-swapped Gen 1 RX7 go on, it was lookin REAL SQUIRRELLY. one of my friends pulled out of the lanes so he didnt have to run him, that bad. i let him go, then took off. also of note: pay attention to the strip behind me.... this reason is the MAIN REASON why i built this car here. lack of traction. i blow the tires off EVERY gear with that car.... nice little strips in every gear though, its kinda neat i guess...

Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:37 pm
by Justin517
ahh ok I must have misread or skipped over it. Hopefully the studs will solve your issue! I wish you the best of luck, I ana see what this thing runs.
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:51 pm
by speeding-g60
Justin517 wrote:ahh ok I must have misread or skipped over it. Hopefully the studs will solve your issue! I wish you the best of luck, I ana see what this thing runs.
no you didnt skip/miss it. i forgot to write it. but i have been running Raceware headstuds all year, all 7 passes LOL. and then these past 30-ish dyno pulls? i have been advised to take the Racewares to 100 lb/ft torque... it has solved this issue for many other people, especially VR6T cars.... but i will just get new ones....
but we all cant wait to run this car.... want to hear something NUTTY?????
Derek has a free-pass down the track in it LOL.... a deal i made him a long time ago.... and that isnt as passenger it is a one-seater!
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:47 pm
by vagrant_mugen
oh yeah? well i think dereks a dick. now.
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:32 pm
by loxxrider
lolz I would turn that offer down. The responsibility would just be wayyy too much.
Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:08 am
by Belgarion115
that's just not the kind of thing you turn down
Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:47 pm
by derracuda
mwuhu mwuhu mwuuhhahahahahaha i can't wait

i figure if he gets all the safety bugs worked out, i don't have to worry too much about it doing weird things. i just hope he makes his fast pass before i do

Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:47 pm
by speeding-g60
so i got some ARP head studs here.... awaiting the ported head to be assembled and worked over some.
also, i stopped by and got the dyno's from the last session.... run 18, 3rd gear. 7700 rpm. from ~5800 til end i was >500 AWHP with a peak of 559. and from 6800 to 7700 it was >550 AWHP. and torque peaked @ 456 wtq right around 6k .
i think once this thing gets squared away its gonna be very good...
