The Project Pad

hope you have bigger plans so one of us can live in your shadow through the swap meet - haha. Hope there are some other mexico videos

Mcstiff wrote:

my2000apb wrote:

loxxrider wrote:I disagree. The oil gets emulsified before it ever gets into the can in my experience.

yeah, keep that gross shit outta my engine

Where does this happen? In the tube between the crankcase and can? Not much room or time in there.

Every time the engine and catch can heats or cools condensation forms. When the engine gets hot enough the condensation in the crankcase evaporates and exits via the? Breather! Which leads to the? Catch can! The function of the catch can is to condense hot vapors so it does it's job. Since the catch can is not hot enough to vaporize water (crankcase and catch can condensation) and send it back into the intake or to the atmosphere, the condensed water and oil inevitably emulsify.

Yes, it happens in the hose between crank case and can sometimes. Not much room or time? Condensation doesn't need any room to happen (just a change in temperature and a high enough dew point) and it has plenty of time to mix with the condensed water as the two stick to the wall of the tube in a kind of boundary layer. As the water vapor and oil-filled air passes through the tube, it has plenty of opportunity to mix together and emulsify little by little over time.

I'm not saying emulsification doesn't happen in the catch can, I'm just saying that there are conditions which dictate that the emulsification happens long before the can. You may not ever see this condition due to your likely much lower dew points on average in CO than in a more tropical climate like where I live, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen to others!

The point is, re-route the oil back to the pan if you want, but check the lines and inside of your can after a while. If it looks milky, I wouldn't keep routing it in there. If not, then keep it up!

Hank wrote:Yeah, if the turbo is still spinning, making boost, it is probably savable. If you have some down time planned for the car, you should send out the CHRA. I can send a loaner CHRA if you can't have downtime too for a very minimal cost.

Hank

Turbo still spools and makes boost just fine. No odd noise and same shaft play it always had right form new (based on feel...no actual measurements). The only thing I wanted to do was dyno the car before the season was out so it's not really all that important. Lots of people did want to know though, lol.

loxxrider wrote:
Yes, it happens in the hose between crank case and can sometimes. Not much room or time? Condensation doesn't need any room to happen (just a change in temperature and a high enough dew point) and it has plenty of time to mix with the condensed water as the two stick to the wall of the tube in a kind of boundary layer. As the water vapor and oil-filled air passes through the tube, it has plenty of opportunity to mix together and emulsify little by little over time.

I'm not saying emulsification doesn't happen in the catch can, I'm just saying that there are conditions which dictate that the emulsification happens long before the can. You may not ever see this condition due to your likely much lower dew points on average in CO than in a more tropical climate like where I live, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen to others!

The point is, re-route the oil back to the pan if you want, but check the lines and inside of your can after a while. If it looks milky, I wouldn't keep routing it in there. If not, then keep it up!

I know very little about a proper catch can setup. Can you guys advise? Should I skip a catch can setup and just have venturi's added to my downpipe like a dragster? http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/p ... _1035_1069

I think you'd still want a catch can to minimize liquid oil that enters the exhaust. I like the Radium Engineering catch cans but I am currently using a AC dryer full of SS scrubbers. Between dry climate and <200kpa I do not collect much.

AFA routing, it is good for ring sealing to have some vacuum on the crank case.

A couple good reads
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ ... ition.aspx
http://www.miataturbo.net/engine-perfor ... ead-46833/

Half of these were posted in Casey's thread too (ones with his car), but here are some my shots from H2Oi:

can you post a screenshot of your pump gas timing map? MERCY!

See attached.

thanks nick. This is what I had before:




and after:



You had a ton more timing down low. So I added some. And you also had a few more degrees once in boost, but I left mine the way it is for da safety. I wonder how much the added timing will help around town cruising. Probably a lot.

chaloux wrote:thanks nick. This is what I had before:

timing map before.jpg

and after:

timing map after.jpg

You had a ton more timing down low. So I added some. And you also had a few more degrees once in boost, but I left mine the way it is for da safety. I wonder how much the added timing will help around town cruising. Probably a lot.

Your MPG's will probably be the most noticable

Ordering a turbo this week. Look for exciting updates to come

amd is the best wrote:Ordering a turbo this week. Look for exciting updates to come

You lucky bastard... Hta gt3794r?

Dutchbroracer wrote:

amd is the best wrote:Ordering a turbo this week. Look for exciting updates to come

You lucky bastard... Hta gt3794r?

Close, going with the HTA Super94 due to it's current sale price.

amd is the best wrote:

Dutchbroracer wrote:

amd is the best wrote:Ordering a turbo this week. Look for exciting updates to come

You lucky bastard... Hta gt3794r?

Close, going with the HTA Super94 due to it's current sale price.

Nice, ya I saw the price and was pretty shocked. You can't even buy their Hta 3076 for that. Very cool man, looking forward to the updates

Super94 looks like quite the deal...

Whoa. Das a big turbo.

This is gonna be awesome

Making me think twice about my build!

What part of it? Turbo choice?

Ok, fuel injectors. What are my options for plug in size? I'm figuring either ID1300's, ID2000's or FIC2150's. Are there any others that maybe not require harness adapters or others in general?

CAT cams... how do I select the best ones? I know very little about the subject though I know I want to stay hydro lifter.

Oh my.... oh YES!!!!

Gonna be beastly!

same thing I just posted on facebook, just install the EV14 connectors on your injector harness...no biggie

FIC2150s have been great for me, good luck trying to get a reasonable idle fuel mixture with pump gas though. With E85 they're perfect

rebuilt harness w/ ev14 connectors

Nick what is the plan for the EM? do you plan to run t3 or t4?

As far as cat cams, I plan on running the #1002305. Longest duration with the highest amount of lift while being able to stay hydraulic. I'm sure it's going hurt power curve, but I hope the gains up top are enough to over look it.

I say put your dad to work and re grind your own cams! haha

EDIGREG wrote:Gonna be beastly!

same thing I just posted on facebook, just install the EV14 connectors on your injector harness...no biggie

FIC2150s have been great for me, good luck trying to get a reasonable idle fuel mixture with pump gas though. With E85 they're perfect

rebuilt harness w/ ev14 connectors
http://dgreg.me/da_fridge/fuel_system4.jpg

Looks great Ed, as always. This may be the route I go.

Dutchbroracer wrote:Nick what is the plan for the EM? do you plan to run t3 or t4?

As far as cat cams, I plan on running the #1002305. Longest duration with the highest amount of lift while being able to stay hydraulic. I'm sure it's going hurt power curve, but I hope the gains up top are enough to over look it.

I say put your dad to work and re grind your own cams! haha

I am going to try my luck with the Wagner SQ Evo manifold which is T3 and FP's .85 exhaust housing.

Those were the cams I was eyeing too, though I know very little about cam spec and how it affects things. I just know that I absolutely want to stay hydro.

Do you have one already? Worth the extra 3 bucks to get Hanks imo. Dad did 465whp on 26psi though so... eh!

chaloux wrote:Do you have one already? Worth the extra 3 bucks to get Hanks imo. Dad did 465whp on 26psi though so... eh!

I got a good deal on a barely used one so I figure I'll give it a shot. I really like the idea of a cast manifold. Durability, keeps heat energy in well and in this case flows well. Hank's would probably flow more/have more potential however I don't think my goals are at the limit of this manifold. I also don't think your dads car was anywhere near the limit of the Wagner manifold either.

This car is running the wagner and 6262 making 620awhp: http://www.maxxtuning.se/kundbilar/mapp ... s2--josef/

The main reason I wanted to try it was to maintain my current intercooler if possible. It still may not work...hell the turbo itself may not work with the manifold. If not I'll be ordering Hank's stuff.

amd is the best wrote:

chaloux wrote:Do you have one already? Worth the extra 3 bucks to get Hanks imo. Dad did 465whp on 26psi though so... eh!

I got a good deal on a barely used one so I figure I'll give it a shot. I really like the idea of a cast manifold. Durability, keeps heat energy in well and in this case flows well. Hank's would probably flow more/have more potential however I don't think my goals are at the limit of this manifold. I also don't think your dads car was anywhere near the limit of the Wagner manifold either.

This car is running the wagner and 6262 making 620awhp: http://www.maxxtuning.se/kundbilar/mapp ... s2--josef/

The main reason I wanted to try it was to maintain my current intercooler if possible. It still may not work...hell the turbo itself may not work with the manifold. If not I'll be ordering Hank's stuff.

I like where this is going...Sounds like a sweet idea. I assume the motor will be pulled and at least rods will be done?