The Project Pad

When I re-torqued mine after roughly 5000-8000 km I got about a 1/3 turn. I think most people recommend to do so much quicker, but can't remember the accepted/recommended interval.

If I remember correctly, you retorque after first heat cycle, then again 1000 miles later.

jbrentd wrote: Got it torqued down per the ARP instructions. Anyone know if I’ll have to retorque after some heat cycles?

I always re torque ARPs after the first full heat cycle and typically get another 1/4-1/2 turn out of several of the studs so I'd recommend it.

Thanks for the info everyone.

Spent some time prepping the block for a treatment of POR15 engine paint.

Paying close attention to this build. Awesome work so far, we can swap info back and forth once i get my stuff as well.

morris400 wrote:Paying close attention to this build. Awesome work so far, we can swap info back and forth once i get my stuff as well.

Thanks, sounds good.

Got a coat of primer in the other night. Finish color will be silver, like I did on the 7A. The POR15 kit I bought last time has enough of some of the products to do 3 or 4 engines. Other products, only enough to do 2.

Two coats of silver on the block and the EM is on. I think we’re getting close to yanking the 7A.

Looks marvellous.

Thanks


Kind of stuck until I can find time to head to a buddy’s shop to use his sand blast cabinet. I suppose I could put the car on jack stands and start disassembling it.

Managed to get a few small things done.

Serviced the injectors


Received a couple 3B S2 hoses




And I feel like I’ve spent a small fortune on new hardware. Got a bunch of Norma hose clamps and this is my second batch of fasteners.

Sand blasting done on these and a box of misc engine parts. Need to go buy some paint , but they came out looking so nice, I kind of want to leave them raw.

Regarding the battery I know you asked a bit ago but I was just catching up.
I think Dave (broken Quattros ) has a YouTube video where he did it on a car and the tools he used looked more efficient than what I did .
Removing the tray was the hardest part . I tried using spot weld drillers at first, but I didn’t like how much of the metal it was taking away behind the battery tray on the firewall.
So then eventually I just cut most of it away with a cutting wheel to get it out of my way, and to leave only the mounting portion so I could use various burrs on that with a 90 deg die grinder .

I went to a local battery shop and got the cables , measured my length and had them crimp the ends on for me . I can find some pics if you want

Afterthought wrote:Regarding the battery I know you asked a bit ago but I was just catching up.
I think Dave (broken Quattros ) has a YouTube video where he did it on a car and the tools he used looked more efficient than what I did .
Removing the tray was the hardest part . I tried using spot weld drillers at first, but I didn’t like how much of the metal it was taking away behind the battery tray on the firewall.
So then eventually I just cut most of it away with a cutting wheel to get it out of my way, and to leave only the mounting portion so I could use various burrs on that with a 90 deg die grinder .

I went to a local battery shop and got the cables , measured my length and had them crimp the ends on for me . I can find some pics if you want

Thanks for the info. I’ll go back re-watch Dave’s video. I was planning to use a cutting wheel and grinder, when I get to it. I think I have all the pieces identified. One question is whether to put the breaker/switch in the rear hatch or on the firewall.

On my cq I put a large breaker in the trunk .
On my urq I have the breaker at the firewall . I think it can go either way depending on what you want to protect I guess.

I’ve also used one of these power posts before , if you leave some of the wiring harnesses intact and you a few things that tie in together you can use a post .




Here’s the battery tray in my 90 .
I drilled most of the spot welds, then finished it off with my die grinder , then I also tried to use as smooth of a bead as possible of seam sealer over it . Then I used EBAY paint using the Audi code . The match isn’t perfect because the new paint is lighter in color than the engine bay (due to heat i would guess )




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Afterthought wrote:On my cq I put a large breaker in the trunk .
On my urq I have the breaker at the firewall . I think it can go either way depending on what you want to protect I guess.

I’ve also used one of these power posts before , if you leave some of the wiring harnesses intact and you a few things that tie in together you can use a post.

From what I can tell, it seems you want to keep your “always hot” segments as short as possible by placing the breaker close to the battery. But I would think it would be more convenient to get to in the engine bay. Got a pic of where you mounted the breaker in the hatch of your CQ?

And I have one of those posts on my list as well. Thanks again, for sharing those pics.

I did a breaker on the firewall and a fuse at the battery on my GT. Breaker on the firewall is super handy when working on the car.

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alxdgr8 wrote:I did a breaker on the firewall and a fuse at the battery on my GT. Breaker on the firewall is super handy when working on the car.

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You guys are making me think now , for my 90 . I think in my 90 I’ll consider putting a breaker or switch somewhere accessible without having to pop the hood or trunk . But I could but a breaker by the battery and switch in the car .

Not much progress of late. It seems that an S2 3B oil return line is hung up in customs on its journey from the Germany. Been there since 2/5.

Got a couple colors picked out for powder coating...looking forward to that.

Got a question for everyone. Has anyone ever mated the updated metal 7A breather pipe with the rest of the stock 200 3B breather system? It seems that only the first 6 inches or so of the rubber hose is the part that gets mushy. The rest seems pretty good. Here’s a pic of the pieces lined up.



I would buy the 034 silicone pieces, but I’m getting killed by all the $150-200 purchases that I’ve been making.

Feel like I’m starting to make some headway. Got a bunch of parts painted today.







And some of them even made it on the engine.

Customs held my oil return pipe for almost a month, but it finally showed up. While the heat shield from Error404 made it in 3 days. lol



Also found a manual HVAC from a B4 Cabriolet. Seems the salvage yard lost the knobs and trim piece though. If anyone has those, please let me know.



And I’m starting to mock up the cooling system. My donor 3B didn’t come with a hardline for the heater piping. Instead, it had this setup and the after run pump was removed/bypassed.



So, I am doing something similar, but with new hoses. Anyone see any issues with how I have the after run pump plumbed and mounted?





Also mocking up the oil return so I can modify the oil pan extension.

Met a friend on Saturday morning to drop off some parts to be powder coated and got this pic from him the next day. I owe him, big time. I’m excited, to say the least.



Also got the heat shield mounted. One piece of the puzzle at a time, for me.

Love the powder coat choice!

is that the shields from s2-forum?

Grillage wrote:Love the powder coat choice!

is that the shields from s2-forum?

Thanks! Yes, it’s the cheaper option for the 3B/RR.

Couple things done tonight.

S2 3B Oil return at oil pan extension


Combination of 7A and 200 3B breather system


S2 3B charge hose and TIP piping. Had to make due with another off the shelf product in the bypass piping. Not ideal, but it should work.

I spent a few hours on Sunday getting the coupe on jack stands and removing the front end so I could get to the crank bolt. This was so I could swap over the water pump and timing belt from the 7A to the 3B, since these parts only had 2k miles on them from when I worked on the replacement 7A.

Also painted the engine brackets, finished up the coolant lines, and mounted the AC compressor to make sure there were no interference issues with the oil filter adapter. It’s a tight fit, but hopefully no issues. I’ve heard that the AAN oil filter adapter may work better.

I think I might take a stab at modifying my CQ coolant/heater hard line to add in a connection for the afterrun connection, but not sure yet.