The Project Pad

What do I need? I think I broke the crank. I've got an ALH available to me if I wanted to go that route, but there's just so much that has to be finished besides now swapping in a new motor. Rear suspension (easy), cruise control (never gonna happen), AC, sound deadening, power steering, brakes, tach and coolant gauges working, the list goes on.

chaloux wrote:What do I need? I think I broke the crank.

That blows. :(

Got up at 530 this AM to work on the car and get my shit sorted out on the TDI/S stuff for sale.

I made it this far, timed and ready to be torqued:


But I'm missing one head stud nut. FAAAAAAK. I looked for maybe 10 minutes, couldn't find it. Maybe dad knows. But SERIOUSLY, how does this shit happen? GUh.

Anyone have a spare nut?

I speak for everyone when I say we don't have spare nuts

I was born with 2 and I'm keeping em!

Dude, your not the only one. I have the astounding ability to set something down and literally 30 seconds later not be able to find it or remember where I set it down. Its some kind of sickness.

Wahoo, got a nut locally. Our engine builder just happened to have one the right size.

Tomorrow morning I'll be tightening the head down and hooking up as much as I can in two hours. Driving by (the end of) this weekend!

Head torqued, turbo buttoned up, valve cover on, timing belt on and tightened. Just working my way through all the accessories... booooooring

chaloux wrote:Head torqued, turbo buttoned up, valve cover on, timing belt on and tightened. Just working my way through all the accessories... booooooring

Does it run yet?!?

I'm looking forward to seeing this car. There's no shortage of urq's at our pub meetings but it's very seldom we see a nice 4kq. I can't wait.

Keep up the good work,

John

Grr, another missing part. One of the coolant fittings has a banjo bolt, got all that. The other has a female flare. So WHERE did the male-male fitting go (assuming I need this one). And why is it not in the hose in the first place!!!! This is gonna drive me crazy.

stop losing shit!

cant remember who said it, but its so true. working on cars feels like 60% wrenching and 40% looking for where you put that %!!%@$^!% missing part!

Marc wrote:stop losing shit!

cant remember who said it, but its so true. working on cars feels like 60% wrenching and 40% looking for where you put that %!!%@$^!% missing part!

lol, I'm trying. It's frustrating because I'm usually really organized. I don't think we lost much/anything with dad's build yet on MY OWN stuff just disappears.

Anyway, I'm going to circumvent the problem altogether and just use a banjo bolt. It also appears that the 14 to -6an fitting is not the right one anyway, since the banjo bolt fits both the turbo AND the line I have. So WTF is going on here I don't know. Running today? Maybe...

get r dun!!!

ive got an alh fw i dont need if itll help

my2000apb wrote:ive got an alh fw i dont need if itll help

It's alright. The crank broke @ the flywheel.


Major headway on the 4k today! Feeling awesome. My to do list is as follows:

- fill coolant and oil
- figure out brake vacuum assist (going to put it onto intake manifold)
- install plugs and wires
- heat and bend wastegate downpipe connection... as is it's about 3/4" off.
- WIRING for VEMS

I'm sure that there are a few other little things that I'll discover along the way. I think I'm well on track to have it running by the end of the weekend.

Yay!!! Make it happen man!

- fill coolant and oil
DONE - figure out brake vacuum assist (going to put it onto intake manifold)
- install plugs and wires
- heat and bend wastegate downpipe connection... as is it's about 3/4" off.
- WIRING for VEMS

I re-routed the starter wire to be away from the downpipe this morning. Also ran boost line to the ECU, organized the wires, hooked up the battery, installed the front grille, and turned the key! I had a small fuel leak from the rail but two new copper crush washers fixed that.

So right now the to-do list is looking pretty slim for a startup! I just need to configure the 60-2 wheel and get an adjustable timing light. Getting new plugs, coolant, and Shell RotellaT 1-40 dino oil for break in. I also have to drill the WG cap and back the spring off. Maybe even switch to a stock spring... 2.2bar spring might be too much for break in.

Need. Vids. ASAP.

Okay so dad and I did the wiring today, and we're at the point of trying to time the 60-2 wheel, but I'm getting a no spark condition. It's a bit of a hybrid setup, with VEMS on URS PNP setup. I'm using the AAN wiring harness with the 60-2 trigger wheel connecting into where the G40 connects.

For power I'm running a constant into the stock constant power supply. I'm also running power to the coil fuse, N75 fuse, and injector fuse (they all go into one plug in the AAN harness, so we cut that plug and gave them all switched power). What am I missing? If i try to do a trigger log it comes back blank, no data. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right (key on, open vems, go to create trigger log, hit start, try to start car, and then stop). I've set the primary trigger settings using the default 5cyl 60-2 setup.

Oh, I'm also using 034's 3 wire coils with a harness that PNPs into where the URS POSs would be.

Also just tested coils, they are getting power. So VEMS is not telling them to do their thing. Hmm? Cam position sensor or some setting somewhere?

Got it, power supply issue. Coils etc wasn't on switched power as we thought, and the crank position sensor was in the wrong connector, black isntead of silver. I gots MAD TRIGGER First start soon boiiiieees

Long post ahead warning. VEMS related, perhaps I should make a thread on the VEMS forum?

So got the spark figured out. Lots of spark. Woohoo. So then we set about timing it following Marc's instructions that I posted in this thread.

A few notes. I noticed this at the end, but when I set the ignition lock it would stay until I started cranking the car, then it would jump back up to 9. As I said, didn't realize this till the end so we THOUGHT we had it timed at 1* but it was really 8* out. Another note is that in the Ignition Outputs visual settings page, when I ROTATE the "real cylinder order", it does nothing. But when I actually change the drop down menu options it would change (make worse).

My -2 teeth appear to be nearly 180* out. In Marc's guide he says move the slider (TDC after the trigger) to adjust, and if you can't get it close enough to mess with the ignition order. Well for me it appears that stock ignition order is closest, but I still can't get it timed with just the first slider. BUT we got it timed when I used the Distance Between Zero Tooth and the Trigger slider. I believe I had this set to 7. Now if this doesn't work that could explain some things, but I'm also not sure why I couldn't get it reasonably close by changing the firing order. Marc didn't mention it in his writeup but can I use that adjustment?

So when we had it timed (really 8* out) it wouldn't start. It would backfire every once in a while. So then we messed with timing more and more and it only got worse, no backfires etc. So perhaps if I had set the timing gun to 9* it would have fired? Not sure if that much timing difference is enough to cause it not to fire.

Regardless I'm somewhat frustrated at this point and was REALLY hoping to start the car today. There's some crap that needs to be sorted out - couldn't find a key on and start on wire that was big enough to supply power for the coils etc. so I have to put a switch in. Don't have a switch. And the interior still needs to be put back together. On the bright side using VEMS with a URS PNP harness is extremely easy to setup now that I've done it, perhaps I'll do a writeup.

Ok, so, I'll start by ASSuming you've got the timing right (regarding the ignition lock thing, entering "0" disables the feature, use "1" or something to lock it at that). the reason you see it disabling is probably from turning the key off and back on to repeat the cranking cycle with the stock ignition switch.


so if you're not starting and timing IS right, then you might have something wrong with either your ignition ORDER (meaning you've got #1 right, but perhaps in the process you've accidentally transposed the other cylinders). verify with the "test" method on the ignition outputs visual page.

if thats all good, lets have a look at fueling. are the plugs getting wet? best bet, send me a datalog with the engine cranking over. Also, send me a triggerlog so I can verify all is good there (tools->record trigger log, send me the file that ends with '.triggerlog' in your vems directory).

To make things less confusing regarding getting TDC after the trigger to line up in an acceptable rage (60-130) the best way to go is to change the first trigger tooth. that way your ignition order doesn't have to move to accomplish the same goal.

hope that helps.