The Project Pad

nuugen wrote:

loxxrider wrote:Here are some pics of the condition of the t-belt. I might just tow it up the 40 min drive to fix it. It seriously looked fine a few weeks ago. I guess it just decided this last few weeks was its time to let go.

EEK!
I would tow it....

Yeah...you're tellin' me! I couldn't believe it when I saw it. As Justin confirmed above, the damn thing looked just fine a few weeks ago.

Anyway, I have absolutely everything ordered and ready to go to do the timing belt and everything related to it down to the damn $12 washer for the cam bolt lol.

And now thanks to you (Nuugen) I will have a t-belt cover Thank you so much. You are the man!

loxxrider wrote:Haha damn, thats crazy about the starter. Glad you checked the thread. I was going to call or send you a message or something to tell you about it all. You definitely need to update the thread here for your dads car with a few pics and also the one on E30tech so I can see what you've been up to.

I'm actually spraying the rack bars with this rubber stuff to finish them better. Hopefully it will come out alright and allow the towers to clamp on better. I'll have to show you when we get back. I may be up there a day late because Tom doesn't get back to help with my t-belt and cams until the 4th, so we are doing it that day and I'll probably get back up there on the 5th or something.

I haven't played ANY LOZSP! I've been super busy fixing boats and such. I have spent like $200 and two days so far fixing my uncles boat (he's paying me to do it ) I'll have to catch up if you've been at it.

yeah, i know i need to update threads more but i just get lazy when it comes to uploading all the photos. I'll update them both real soon.

That sounds like a good idea for the rackbars

I haven't really played any either, I'm still at the same place. likewise, I've been busy. I managed to finish up the internals my megasquirt box, just need to make an adapter for the 55-ping plug and it will be ready to fit into the car. Then all I need is WBO2, TPS and coil pack and I will be good to go. I wanna try to make it to the junk yard before I leave.

As soon as I get my car together, I'm going to start a welding project for some monies if i can finish it before i leave

The project is going to have to be put on hold for a little while for some very unexpected personal reasons. Depending on how things turn out, it may only be for a few months, or it may be for quite a while. I'm pretty sure its only going to be a few months though. I'm not hurt or anything like that, so no worries! Just need to spend some money in responsible places.

In the meantime, I still need to do the t-belt. I was going to do it Monday, but I accidentally had the timing belt cog sent to my apartment instead of home (where I am now). Totally my fault, so I have to go back up to school this week and then come back over the weekend and do the t-belt. Wont be using my car for the traveling obviously lol.

I'll still be pursuing cheap stuff like trying to find the sphericral bearings and making spacers to get my front lower, etc...I just have to hold off on big purchases like the intercooler and such.

2010 has been rough so far, but I have high hopes!! Here's to a 400 hp 2010 and a kick ass, fun-filled decade


:cheers:

I hear ya bro... I'm thining about re-enacting my T04E hybrid "for sale" post to get some cash... Unemployment really sucks. :-(

I hope you get what you have to, straightened out. Unfortunately, somethings we have to make responsible decisions... lol.

Chris, hope everything works out man..
Here is a pic of the AMD camber plates for the urs4/s6, maybe we can derive some ideas from this..And a good source for bearings:
http://www.nhbb.com/index.htm

Attachment ( 20006 ) : image346.gif

nuugen wrote:Chris, hope everything works out man..
Here is a pic of the AMD camber plates for the urs4/s6, maybe we can derive some ideas from this..And a good source for bearings:
http://www.nhbb.com/index.htm

Yes! Thats exactly how I have envisioned the bearings mounting to my plates. If only I could get those exact ones there...

I guess I'd have to call or e-mail one of these bearing places to see if they have anything like that. Their websites seem to always be quite difficult to navigate haha

DUDE!!!! HELL YA! I love the rack! Damn... I dig it. Your car is looking sweet. That sucks about the T-Belt though, bet your glad you caught it when you did!!! Oh and hope things get better for ya man. I know what it's like rockin school and an audi project. :bashtard: Isn't easy haha!

Pics 3 and 4 are ill. Cars lookin good Chris, hope you get everything taken care of and put that damn holset on already :slap:

Damn timing belt kicked my ass hard today. (mostly because of the cams)

The car runs and everything is fine, but there is some kind of weird noise coming from the front area. I have to see what it is tomorrow. Its like a low-pitched whine. Happens around 1000 RPMs. Above that it gets higher pitched but MUCH quieter. Almost inaudible.

Also, the car has a boost leak like always...at first it pulled ok. Then the leak was bad enough that it was only making 10psi and the power started fluctuating pretty hard. I have a log of it. Not sure if its related to the boost leak or if the car doesn't have enough timing in it.

FWIW, I had a brand new tensioner roller start to make weird noises on me when I put together my AAN. It had about an hour of run time on it when I noticed a noise from the front of motor, kind of like a whining like you describe, but mine did it all the time. I pulled the cover back to find the seal gone and sitting at the bottom of the lower cover. Put a new one roller on it has been good for 1500+ miles so far. Also waterpumps can gobble sometimes. You didnt tension the belt too tight, did you? If they are too tight they make noise. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Yeah, I think its one of those two things or something rubbing. Its definitely not too tight. It twists 90 degrees just like its supposed to.

loxxrider wrote:$12 washer for the cam bolt

You are replacing this because it is recommended? Do most do this? This is the first I have heard of such a thing.

As much of a risk taker as I am (you should see the timing belt I am driving on in the '76 Dasher--clearance engine of course,) I think I too would tow it. It's likely to make it fine, but the tow is less than half the cost of the ten intake valves that WILL bend, and that doesn't even begin to take into account all the things you will have to buy and do because the head comes off as well as all of the things you "may as well" do "while you are in there." You'd have $1000 in it before you had a chance to blink--which you know, of course.

I think he already did the job.

Chris I did the t-belt on my pathfinder 3 years ago and honestly it makes a pretty loud wining noise at idle. I did it just as the FSM specified and it Hasen't broke yet but I keep a close eye on it sot it really seems to be ok. I bet your's will be ok too and ya Boost leaks are a pita. Thats for sure! :bullshits:

Jonathan, I just replaced the washer and bolt because the old bolt had a funky wobble to it (the gear itself didn't though). Seems to not wobble now. I really don't know why it was doing that, but I figured I might as well change it for the hell of it. No, most people dont do this lol.

I did have the car towed, and it cost nothing because I am a AAA premium member

I still have 3 more free service calls with 100 mile tows left this year lol.

Ben, thanks for the comments above (you too Bear) and thanks for the advice on the noise. That definitely makes me feel much better. Thats kinda how I felt about it today when I decided to drive the car 250 miles. The noise seems to be quieter (might be even quieter after the drive, but I haven't had a chance to check) and the belts show no signs of wear or anything like that.

I wasn't surprised when I found that the stock crank cog was cracked to all hell. I'll post a pic soon. I'm sure glad I have that nice, shiny hardened steel one from EFI Express now! Thanks Marc.

So on to the good stuff

Project big effin intercooler is officially a go. I'm going to start ordering parts soon. The fake core I made for mock up fits really easily. 1200cfm for the WIN! Look out for updates in the coming weeks.

When I was driving the car today I tried turning it out pretty good since I fixed the boost leak earlier (for now). Well it seemed to be doing pretty well except for some stutters in high boost. I think it needs a set of plugs. It also needs a retune in the high boost range because of the different cams. One time on the highway, it stuttered, then shifted to third gear, 15psi and it sounded like rev limiter (but it wasn't) and then the engine turned off. I was a little worried but then cycled the ignition and it came back to life like nothing ever happened.

I have a feeling it hit some kind of safety feature in the VEMS...might have been going lean. Like I said, it needs a retune because of the cams. We tried to tune last night but the damn boost leak held us back from seeing anything more than 10psi and then it started doing that weird power fluctuating thing. That was definitely some kind of boost leak related issue.

On another note, the car sounds different with the cams. When I was just moving the car around in my driveway at home my dad said he thought it sounded better because of the cams. I didn't think much of it (though it did sound quite nice). Then when I got on the highway and into the higher RPMs, I was pleasantly surprised by a sort of sharper sounding engine note. It seems to sound more exotic and radical than it did before. Maybe its just because I haven't driven it in a few weeks...but with the open wastegate you can really hear what the engine is doing haha

In short, it sounds a little closer to S1
:-D :-D :-D :bashtard:

WOOHOO! Can't wait to see the IC setup!

Chris, noise may be the timing belt itself. Possibly over-tensioned just a smidge? Or the belt could be causing the water pump to whine (or the relay roller).

Its definitely not tensioned too much. My buddy was like you know we can go tighter on this and I just checked the belt with the 90degree test and it did that just fine...so we left it at that.

I may still take it apart and try different tensions, etc. but I still have to check the level of noise when I get home today. It may well have gone away by now.

Problem with the 90d test, is that it is based on judgment. I can way over tension the belt and still twist it by hand...A slight over tension will probably just relax the belt enough to quite.

Yeah...I see where you are coming from. Still, my buddy said he usually does them tighter than how I had it. We had 3 different people looking at the tension multiple times and they all seemed to think it was fine. Still, you could be right. I'll update later today with how it sounds.

Yea I dont like to use the 90d method. I used it on my CQ and the belt actually jumped a tooth or two, 3000 miles later. It caught again, but the damage was done.

That reminds me...I think the car may have jumped a tooth before I got it home (before I did the t-belt) because it wasn't making the power it normally does...even with high boost. And when we went to do the cams, they seemed like they were a little off. Now the car makes good power again except for the fact that its missing kinda badly with high boost in the cold like I mentioned above.

OK so just for my records:

T-belt, wp, tensioner, acc belts, 7a cams, cam seal, coolant flush, etc. all done at 170.4k


changed oil at 170.7 all synth like usual and new filter. Cost me $25 this time Thanks advance auto parts lol

paid for my buddy helping with the timing belt, cams, (and some free tuning)

and....................................drum rolllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll



Ordered FOUR Hargett QDC's


woooo that means the Holset is LOTS closer to being done now.

Now I gotta order the IC core. Treadstone is all I have in mind right now. If anyone knows of a better or equivalent one for cheaper PLEASE let me know before I order one.

Requirements are 3" in and out, 1200 CFM, and same side in, same side out with end tanks on top and bottom.

Also, if anyone has a t3-flanged STR manifold...I'll pay premium bux for it.

DEAR 034: I, and I'm sure I speak for all of us here, would absolutely love to buy a t3 manifold with ext. wg provisions for the price of $3-400 if you made one. Basically the 7a turbo one or one just like the STR piece. I'm sure if you did that, 10-20 people would sign up and pay for one up front. If that doesn't happen, then I'm sorry but my business has to go somewhere else.

Just a little suggestion and wishful thinking.

loxxrider wrote:DEAR 034: I, and I'm sure I speak for all of us here, would absolutely love to buy a t3 manifold with ext. wg provisions for the price of $3-400 if you made one. Basically the 7a turbo one or one just like the STR piece. I'm sure if you did that, 10-20 people would sign up and pay for one up front. If that doesn't happen, then I'm sorry but my business has to go somewhere else.

China? What is your WHP goal? 034 has some pretty trick IWG stuff.