The Project Pad

damn that could have been nasty

ohhhh schit.

and to think that i made mine out of aluminum. but it seems that they snapped in the threaded section were the heim wasnt threaded, if that makes sense. my ends are actually pretty bottomed out, as in the bars are actually pretty perfect in length....after three trips to the local dirt track shop...so hopefully i dont have that problem.

and you used steel right? cause i used 1" aluminum. thats odd though, cause they use these things on 700hp/700ft lb big blocks that haul balls around a circle track, and they seem to hold up fine as far as i know, its not like a wear item thats replaced after each and every race.

i am not sure why it is broken. but look at the pix. the jam nut should have been tightened to the rod, it was not. looks like while turning it got jammed into the strut arm, and that could cause issue....

while on the dyno it was perfect.

there were steel. swedged tube from an actual race shop.

taking the broken parts to a local shop, get their opinion. may just pick up something there, or order some more DOM tube, and the weld in ends and make my own.

i just wanted to let anyone know that if they followed my lead on this little thing here, i may have fallen off-track.

i probably wont make this weekend to race, either. gives me oct 4 and oct 11 is all for the year.

and yes, it could have been bad.... could have been bad at the dyno cuz 4 ft in front of my car while on the dyno was a Viper. hate to see that action if it came loose.... that would be bad too.

Reminds me of what happened to retal on his 4ktq, but his was the stock 4kq tie rod arm, just welded IIRC. His broke on the dyno, pretty scary stuff.

Good for catching this!

broke right at the end of the heim end threads.

Reminds me of last November, we were on the dyno at KTR. The dyno operator tied down the car and I remember asking "You're not gonna run all four front straps?" he replied it would be fine. When the car came up on boost it climbed the rollers and jumped a foot to the left. The dyno operator shit himself, shut it down, got out and add the two other straps LOL. Apparently he under estimated the little 1.8L motor.

thats awesome.....

i did not want that to happen to me... i like to see the videos of peoples cars doing that. but would hate to have it be MY video.

and it seems i have all the partz to make some new steering arms here already.

DOM tubing, and the Heims and weld in inserts for them. thankfully i buy extra when i do buy that kind of stuff LOL

i will make these tomorrow and have them in and hopefully the motor back in as well.

would REALLY like to run this car this year.... you cant imagine how whiny and child like i will be if not.

speeding-g60 wrote:while on the dyno it was perfect.

Care to elaborate on how it went at the dyno? :?

2 1/2 weeks ago dyno session. go back to pg 43.... killed it completely on the dyno?

broken wrist pins, torched head, etc?

592 AWHP?

It would certainly break at the threads like it dud if it saw any bending load. These Rosa are designed only for lo gitudian compression and tension loads. The tie rods should only ever see tension or compression and no bending.

Certainly if the locknut was left loose or vm's loose and rattled awY from the tube to a point where it could hit the strut when steering input was put in. That would put a bending load on the tube an hence would cause what we see here.

My gut feel , given that I have the same setup for road race use, is that the rods should be fine as long as the nut is locked up hard and doesn't move.

I will think long and hard but I am tempted to stick with these rods.

The alternative is to meke ones own. Aaron I would recommend chomoly over DOM. Although Dom should be fine too if the wall is heavy enough.

Botom line for me again is the rods should be fine if they don't see bending loads

would be ugly for sure if they break

iPhone post sorry for typos

It would certainly break at the threads like it dud if it saw any bending load. These Rosa are designed only for lo gitudian compression and tension loads. The tie rods should only ever see tension or compression and no bending.

Certainly if the locknut was left loose or vm's loose and rattled awY from the tube to a point where it could hit the strut when steering input was put in. That would put a bending load on the tube an hence would cause what we see here.

My gut feel , given that I have the same setup for road race use, is that the rods should be fine as long as the nut is locked up hard and doesn't move.

I will think long and hard but I am tempted to stick with these rods.

The alternative is to meke ones own. Aaron I would recommend chomoly over DOM. Although Dom should be fine too if the wall is heavy enough.

Botom line for me again is the rods should be fine if they don't see bending loads

would be ugly for sure if they break

ok. i have the 1/2" longer rods.... i can make another one work on this side.

i really think judging by the marks on the strut arm thats what happened. hate to see it break in real world. and all your thoughts make sense, Haydn, hence why i notified you in the IM.

the DOM tubing i have with the weld in ends is .065 wall..... the heims are 1/2" heims if i went that way. it is by all means easier to stick with this method and just get re-aligned after putting the new one in....

speeding-g60 wrote:2 1/2 weeks ago dyno session. go back to pg 43.... killed it completely on the dyno?

broken wrist pins, torched head, etc?

592 AWHP?

duh... thought you had been back again already... waiting for a happy dyno report

so i took motor out again yesterday, seems i didnt put the alignment dowels in :bashtard: :slap:

that is when i noticed the broken part.

the other side is doing it too, its not a defect of the rod, rather how i mounted it. i have to trim some off the upper mounts i made.

and i re-installed the motor today again after work. and will finish it off tomorrow and hopefully start it up.

i am getting good at that. the exhaust manifold takes just about as much time as the rest of the motor it seems at times.

thats all.

back in and it fired up first try.....

gotta love it. heat cycled then shut it down. break in on dyno friday.... stay tuned for results.

as always a video

woooot sweet way to go!!!

is that IM polished to the max? on teh first pic? looks great

yeah, all the stuff he makes is pretty much polished material from the start. it is how he buys it.

i just cleaned it with some stuff i found in my garage, and it works great.

dude, you're a maniac.....
now I sit eagerly biting my nails for round 2...
way to motivate.

oh yea, she looks badarsssseee if you haven't already gotten that enough

Nice...your kid is cool...."Oh I didn't....nevermind" ....." I can do it!"-lol

awesome!

yer kid is too cute lol.

NICE WORK!! good luck for round two! fingers crossed for ya!

Scarrrreeey!

I love Aaron's son...I think its time for a t-shirt!